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Talgomine Reserve is a large picturesque area around the rock, 12 km east of Nungarin in the Сentral Wheatbelt. Talgomine rock was ‘originally named Mount Moore’. In the 19 century the place was used as a stopping place for travellers and stock passing through the area. The reserve became an important watering place. Particularly, it served as a community sheep dip to treat skin infection of animals.
Facilities
There is a free campground at the base of a rock. Facilities at Talgomine Reserve include a picnic table and a long drop toilet, as well as bins. We enjoyed having the place all to ourselves for the night. It turned out to be a much nicer and cozier place than Danberrin Rock where we stopped initially but had to leave due to ants’ infestation.
Nice walks and nature at Talgomine Reserve
In the morning, I wandered through the area, climbing over granite outcrops and circling the boulders. Just a few weeks ago, this place would have been ablaze with wildflowers—especially everlastings. Now, only the orange immortelle (Waitzia acuminata) remained, still flowering but past its prime. Aside from that, little else was in bloom.
Yet the landscape held its own quiet beauty. The granite shimmered softly in the morning light, birds chirped cheerfully in the stillness, and a sense of peace settled over everything. We felt grateful to have spent the night here, far from the buzz and bustle of city life—a gentle pause in nature’s embrace.
West MacDonnell National Park stretches 161km west of Alice Springs in Northern Territory. It is famous for its spectacular gorges, chasms and permanent water holes, offering numerous opportunities for hiking and camping. The park is part of the Red Centre, and as such is often visited together with Kings Canyon and Uluru. Driving through the West MacDonnell Ranges is a sightseeing by itself. Those ancient red colour rippled ranges look quite picturesque. Presently, the park is also known as Tjoritja.
Tyler’s Pass
Our journey (in July 2025) began at Tyler’s Pass, perched at the western edge of the West MacDonnell National Park. This elevated rest area offers sweeping 360-degree views of the surrounding landscape—including the striking, eroded rim of Tnorala (Gosses Bluff), a dramatic remnant of an ancient impact crater.
Redbank Gorge campground
West MacDonnell National Park offers a variety of camping options, and we chose to stay at Redbank Gorge, which is on the western side. Access is via a 5 km unsealed dirt road off the sealed Namatjira Drive. Redbank Gorge has two campgrounds: Woodland Campground, which is suitable for all vehicle types, and Ridgetop Campground, which is more suited for tents and swags.
We stayed at Woodland Campground and really enjoyed it. It’s relatively small, offering a sense of privacy and quiet. Facilities include toilets, BBQs, picnic tables, and campfire pits. There are no rubbish bins and you cannot bring your dog there.
The campground is very reasonably priced—especially compared to WA rates. We paid $25 per night for a family of four. (in 2025). Note that park entry fee also applies.
Redbank Gorge
The gorge itself is located 1.8 km from Woodland Campground, making for a short drive to explore its stunning features. The Redbank Gorge walk is a 2km return trail of moderate difficulty. Beginning at the car park, it descends gently to a dry, sandy creek bed. The path winds through rocky terrain, flanked by white ghost gums and framed by towering red cliffs—leading to a tranquil waterhole. It is serene and peaceful.
A ghost gum glowing white against ancient red rock and soft spinifex grass at Redbank Gorge. It is quiet, mysterious, unforgettable. There’s something haunting and sacred in the stillness of the outback.
This is the view of Mt Sonder’s southern side, from Redbank Gorge.
Finke 2 Mile Bush Camp
Just below the Mt Sonder Lookout, nestled along the banks of the Finke River, lies Finke 2 Mile Bush Camp—a rustic, no-facilities site for self-sufficient travellers. What it lacks in amenities, it makes up for in serenity and awesome views.
Campers can choose any spot along a 3km stretch of riverbank, with shady trees and pebbled edges perfect for a quiet stay. It’s 4WD-access only, and you need to book online before arrival. Camping fees apply, and there’s no mobile reception—so plan ahead.
We didn’t stay this time, but made a note: this peaceful riverside camp is one to consider for future trips, especially if you’re seeking solitude beneath the ranges.
Ormiston Gorge
In our opinion, this is perhaps the most picturesque of all the places that we visited in the Red Centre. The gorge’s striking combination of red, textured rock and white, powdery ghost gums reflected in the waterhole made it truly unforgettable. When the sun hits the gorge just right, it creates a dramatic contrast—shadowed foregrounds giving way to sunlit cliffs in the distance.
We took the Ghost Gum Walk up to the lookout, then followed the trail along the edge of the gorge and down to the waterhole. At that point, the only way forward was across the icy waterhole, which sees so little sun it never really warms up. So, with teeth clenched, boots in hand, and pants rolled up, off we went. Initially our two sons tried to build a bridge across, but eventually gave up and had to step into the freezing water too. Shortly after the initial numbing of our feet wore off, it actually felt invigorating—like a cold plunge for the soul. And after a few days without a shower, a foot wash was a welcome bonus.
The views continued to amaze and delight as we made our way back to the car park. Though there was one more section where you would either need to swim or get wet. We chose differently. Following our kids’ lead, we managed to climb up and over a rock. It was easy for them, of course, but they had to help us down the other side. 😊
It was quite the adventure—and absolutely worth it.
Spinifex pigeons are common at Ormiston Gorge. You can see many of them at the car park. It is probably the most beautiful pigeon I’ve seen.
Ochre Pits
Another attraction in the West MacDonnell National Park is colourful ochre pits. The rocky outcrops where they occur, look like a layered cake with white, yellow, orange, red and brown colours. Since ochre is still mined and used by Aboriginal people, it is considered a sacred site. With this in mind, please look but do not touch.
A gentle 300m walk leads to the viewing platform, with the option to wander further along the dry creek bed. Facilities include an info shelter and toilets at the car park. Easy access off the main road.
Ellery Creek Big Hole
Ellery Creek Big Hole is a spectacular permanent waterhole carved into the gorge by Ellery Creek, nestled in West MacDonnell National Park. It’s a beautiful spot for swimming—though we skipped that part. There’s a picnic area and a paid campground just steps from the waterhole, with toilets and BBQs for a comfortable stay.
Simpsons Gap
The closest to Alice Springs attraction in the West MacDonnell National Park is Simpsons Gap. As the name suggests, it is a gap between two rocks, with a permanent waterhole, which is home to including the black-footed-rock wallaby. We haven’t seen the wallaby, as they normally come out at dawn and dusk and we were there in the middle of the day. The Simpsons Gap is a very beautiful place and offers opportunity to admire the ancient landscape dotted by white ghost gums.
There are excellent facilities at Simpsons Gap, which include toilets, drinking water, bbqs, information shelter, mobile phone boost station. Simpsons Gap is easily accessible via sealed road.
At the time of writing (2025) it is unsealed road, which is recommended for 4WD only. It took us about 5 hours to travel 155km due to corrugation, but we stopped a few times. Technically it is possible to use 2WD there if you travel slowly.
The scenery at the Mereenie Loop is quite interesting and unique. We were lucky to see wild brumbies, as well as camels.
You can see some wildflowers there too.
It is a great outback experience for anyone with a sense of adventure and the right vehicle. We enjoyed the remoteness and quietness of this route.
It is not a free drive
Mereenie Loop Road passes through the Aboriginal land, so the permit to travel is required. We obtained ours for $6.50 at Kings Canyon Resort while paying for the fuel there. There are no facilities at all and no camping is allowed along this route.
Ginty’s Lookout – the only camping place on Mereenie Loop
Located roughly 40km north of Kings Canyon is Ginty’s Lookout. It is a beautiful place to stop when starting your journey on the Mereenie Loop in the Red Centre, NT. From the lookout you can see the canyon and the diverse landscape. This is 24-hour rest stop with fire pits but no other facilities. This is the only place where you can camp while travelling on the Mereenie Loop. It would be a great place to watch the sun go down but our time at Ginty’s Lookout was short so we just admired the views for a while before hitting the road.
Kings Canyon is an iconic landmark of the Red Centre in the Northern Territory. It is located 300km north from Uluru or 360km west from Alice Springs via Mereenie Loop. It is part of Watarrka National Park.
Kings Canyon Rim Walk
The best way to appreciate the unique beauty of the canyon is to take Kings Canyon Rim Walk, 6km loop walk. It takes about 4 hours to complete. The walk starts with a steep climb to the top of the canyon but it gets easier as you reach the plateau. We found the most impressive part of the canyon was the ancient red wall soaring 100 meters above the Kings Creek to an amazing landscape of bee hive-shaped rocky domes.
The bee hive domes were quite spectacular.
These ripples are the evidence that millions of years ago there were shallow lakes there.
Emergency supplies at Watarrka National Park
What surprised us at Watarrka National Park (Kings Canyon) were a number of first aid points together with emergency satellite phones along the Kings Canyon Rim Walk. We actually had to use one of them when our older son got sick after filling in his water bottle with water provided at the park entry and drinking it. So we opened one of the boxes and took a bottle of water, after filling in the papers (discarding his water which didn’t agree with him). It is a great idea to provide these emergency supplies – something we have not seen before.
Unfortunately for us, after we shared our experience on social media, we were accused of “stealing” precious emergency supplies. The post both on Tiktok and Facebook went viral. But there was no glory in that. The vast majority of people who commented criticized us, providing negative comments, some injected with hatred, bulling and racist references. Internet can be very unforgiving, unfortunately.
That was another interesting thing we during our hike. A gate that separates two walking trails. Still not quite sure why it is needed there :).
Where to stay close by
You have an option to either stay at Kings Creek Station, which is further away from the canyon but provides a more unique rustic experience. Or you can choose convenience and stay at nearby Kings Canyon Discovery Resort. We chose the former and were quite happy with the choice. It was reasonably priced, provided free wifi, free laundry (now – these two were a really great bonus!) and nice walks along the property.
Uluru is the most iconic and worldwide recognized Australian landmark. This makes Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park a very popular place all year round. It is literally flooded with international tourists, as well as interstate travelers. We’ve been planning (and postponing) this trip for 5 years. And finally in July 2025 it happened. We travelled to Uluru from Perth via The Great Central Road (which was an interesting experience). Now we can put a tick on our bucket list and forget it about this trip. We certainly did appreciate the beauty of the famous rock. Its rich Aboriginal culture and significance impressed us. However, we were disappointed with many rules and regulations. The commercial aspects of this remarkably beautiful place also let us down.
Photography rules and regulations
Visitors should know that Uluru is a sacred Aboriginal site. Therefore, there are strict restrictions on photography. Some parts of the rock are out of reach, while at others photography is prohibited. You can generally photograph parts of the rock. However, you are not allowed to publicly share the pictures. You must buy a special media permit.
We are not running this blog for profit. Therefore, it was not sustainable for us to buy a permit ($20 per day). This is in addition to the entry fee ($38 per person, valid for 3 days).
Sunrise and sunset over Uluru
Seeing the rock illuminated with light during sunrise is advertised as one of the highlights of any trip to Uluru. Sunset is another popular time to visit the rock So, of course, it was on our list too. We did go to see the sunrise over Uluru at sunrise viewing platform. We had to get up at 5am (in July) to secure the parking. Then we queued at the entrance to the park. Then, we joined the crowds at the viewing platform. There were many people there – bus loads of tourists plus many more arriving by cars.
At 8am, when the sun rose, everyone left. We were the only ones in the car park, having our breakfast. Looking at Uluru, we realized that it appeared so much nicer now. It was more beautiful than at those early hours of the morning. We had to share a spot with crowds of people to get a glimpse of the famous rock then. So, if you want good pictures, get there just after sunrise, when all the tour buses are leaving. You will have a lot of space and much nicer colours of the rock.
Uluru or Ayers Rock?
It is a controversial question. These days, since the times of reconciliation, more and more names of places are changed to Aboriginal names. Ayers Rock became Uluru in 1993 to show respect to the original owners of the land. To be more correct, this place has officially dual name – Uluru/Ayers Rock (sometimes written the other way round). To the new generations and migrants, it is mostly known as Uluru. The older generations prefer to use the name Ayers Rock. They sometimes get too emotional about “incorrect” naming of the rock. We found that out after posting our pictures referring to the rock as Uluru only.
The Great Central Road starts in Laverton, Goldfields, WA and stretches for 1126km. It ends in Yulara, NT, although it changes its name to Tjukaruru Road once you pass the NT border. The Great Central Road is also part of the Outback Way. This is the iconic route that connects the west and the east of Australia through the center.
Road conditions
We found the Great Central Road generally in good condition. It is a mix of some badly corrugated road (relatively small sections), graded gravel road and some sealed sections. The sealed sections are at the beginning, end and also around the roadhouses.
It is all going to change in a few years when the road is going to be fully sealed. We took the opportunity to travel it while it is still unsealed to have this unique outback experience.
3 permits are needed to travel on the Great Central Road, as it passes through several Aboriginal lands. The permits are free and can be obtained online a few days before travel.
Camping on Great Central Road
There are a number of camping spots along the Great Central Road. These include roadhouse campgrounds (paid), as well as free camping.
Giles Breakaway
This is the first camping spot on the Great Central Road after Laverton. Beautiful scenery (probably even better during sunset or sunrise). As the timing was wrong for us, we only stopped for a few minutes before continuing our journey. There were a few people camping and some resting, so the place looked pretty busy. There are no facilities but the place has some shade. Giles Breakaway is 55km east of Laverton.
1 night camping (7 July 2025)
For our first night on the Great Central Road we camped at the parking bay between Laverton and Tjukayirla Roadhouse. Despite being close to the road, it was actually a very quiet place. Not a single vehicle passed by during the night. The quietness and stillness of the Great Victoria Desert land was very pleasing and soothing to the soul. It is something that we still miss after returning back home from the trip.
There were no facilities at our rest stop and we were quite happy to be self-sufficient. After cooking our meal, we retired to bed early. It was a cold day and we slept like sardines in a tin just to keep ourselves warm.
The next day greeted us with a temperature of 0 degrees. Hot tea and breakfast together with a few jumps and other warming up exercises helped to beat the cold.
The place where camped for the night looked very serene, lit by the early morning sun. Here is a short video of it onTiktokor Youtube. But soon it was time for us to move on.
Camp Paradise
Camp Paradise is another camping spot on the Great Central Road. It is an open space and looks like a shallow crater. We didn’t camp there but stopped for lunch. Camp Paradise is 155km west of Warburton in WA.
Yarla Kutjara
Yarla Kutjara campground is one of the few (or perhaps, the only one) free campgrounds on the Great Central Road with a toilet. The place was chosen and set up by Ngaanyatjarra people. They built a toilet and shelter and painted the stories on them. It makes this campground quite special.
We camped there during our second night on the Great Central Road. We enjoyed beautiful sunset, the scenery and the serenity of the place.
Yarla Kutjara is between Warburton and Warakurna in WA.
Attractions and things you can see along the way
Scenery
The best thing about the Great Central Road was the scenery and serenity of the desert outback. The contrast between the sky with some strips of clouds against the red desert covered by spinifex grass and occasional trees is amazing. It is also very quiet in the outback. If you stop, go outside and just listen, you will hear the silence that is so deep and full. It is complete in itself without any sounds. It is calming and disarming. It is healing and soothing. This silence and the unique scenery are what we still miss after travelling on the Great Central Road.
One of the things that surprised us while travelling on the Great Central Road was the number of abandoned wrecked cars. We were taken aback by how many there were. They are mostly in WA and hardly in NT. At first we counted them but lost track counting. We estimated that we saw at least 150-200 wrecked cars.
They look like they have been there for ages. By now, they actually became part of the landscape and an object for photography. It was also agreat entertainment for our boys (another short video – Tiktok or Youtube).
Wildlife and wildflowers
Even though the desert is quiet, it is not dull. It is alive. Dusted but there are still wildflowers blooming there.
If you are lucky, you will see some wildlife. We saw camels, which are quite common there.
Lasseter’s Cave
Lasseter’s Cave is a historic site on the Great Central Road. It is just a short detour off the main road and then a short walk from the car park. There is an information board and a small cave depicting a story of Lasseter. History says that Lasseter took shelter in the cave for 25 days after trying to find gold deposit that he claimed he discovered earlier. The story is a tribute to many early explorers who took great risks and many lost their lives in search of a better future.
Lasseter’s Cave is 40km east of Docker River, shortly after you pass the WA-NT border. It is in Northern Territory.
Final thoughts
Did we enjoy the trip? We surely did. So much that we are willing to travel this remote outback road again to enjoy the solitude and outback scenery. But only when and while the road remains unsealed. This is the true outback experience.
Rowles Lagoon is a semi permanent freshwater wetland in the Goldfields region. In the area where most wetlands are saline, a freshwater lake plays an important role for wildlife. It is home to 41 species of waterbirds, including rare Freckled duck. We were not so lucky to see it. In fact, even though there were plenty of waterbirds, all of them appeared to be Australian shelducks – male, female and ducklings. They were quite shy and I had to take pictures of them from a distance.
The lake can appear different depending on the weather and season. When we visited Rowles Lagoon, it looked pink with quite a lot of water in it. It was lovely to see it filled with water, as at times it can be dry.
Camping at Rowles Lagoon
There is a picnic, as well as a free campground near the lake. Swimming and water-based recreational activities can be enjoyed there when there is enough water. Facilities include toilet and picnic tables. There are no camping fees and campfires are allowed in season. We did not stay there but merely stopped to have a look on our way to Lake Ballard.
How to get there
Rowles Lagoon is 70km north of Coolgardie via Coolgardie-North unsealed Road. It is one of the designated stops along the Golden Quest Discovery Trail.
Karalee Rock is a natural attraction in the Goldfields region. It is part of the Golden Pipe Heritage Trail. This is the route of the historic water pipeline from Perth to Kalgoorlie. The place is known for the historic Karalee Reservoir, which was an important water supply for steam trains. The dam and the well were constructed in the 19th century at the base of the rock to catch the water during storms and heavy rain.
Free camping at Karalee Rock
Nowadays, Karalee Rock is a popular picnic spot and a free camping area. There are plenty of shaded spaces, with picnic tables and fire rings. The toilet is there, but unfortunately, no longer working.
You can walk around the dam and over the rock. The places are very picturesque, especially during sunset and sunrise when the nature really shines.
It is also a place to view beautiful wildflowers. We camped at Karalee Rock on our way to Central Australia in July 2025. There were not many wildflowers but I was happy to find these cute Pterostylis setulosa Hairy-stemmed Snail orchids.
Other wildflowers I spotted were numerous drosera plants and Wurmbea tenella Eight Nancy.
(Wurmbea tenella Eight Nancy)
A team effort of drosera flowers to catch a meal :).
How to get there
Karalee Rock is located between Southern Cross and Coolgardie. It is 4km off the Great Eastern Hwy via dirt road.
Toapin Weir is a great picnic and free camping spot near the dam in the Central Wheatbelt. It is located 8km north of Quairading and is easily accessible. Built in 1912, Toapin Weir is the largest privately constructed water storage scheme in WA. It is still used to supply water to Quairading and surrounding area. It is also a popular recreational site.
Picnic and camping at Toapin Weir
The picnic area near the dam has a few picnic tables, shelters, flushing toilet, drinking water, electric bbqs, rubbish bins and fire pits. There is also a larger camping area, suitable for big rigs and large caravans a short walking distance from the dam.
Interpretive signs, benches, and small stairs make the dam even more accessible and attractive for easy exploration. You can climb onto the granite rock, where the dam is. Or you can take a circular walking trail around the weir. A few different varieties of wildflowers can be found in spring, including some orchids.
We stayed at Toapin Weir over the June long weekend for a couple of nights. It was a busy place, but we had our quiet spot closer to the dam. We enjoyed the campfire, beautiful sunset and exploring the area.
Nookaminnie Rock Nature Reserve
Located 3km west of Quairading town in the Central Wheatbelt, Nookaminnie Rock Nature Reserve is a great hiking place for nature enthusiasts. The highlight of the reserve would be the Nookaminnie Rock. Unfortunately, due to time constraints, we didn’t get to the rock – it is a 6km return walk. Instead, we took a shorter Nookaminnie Creek walk.
Not much was flowering early June. But the gum trees looked quite majestic, especially lit by the rays of the setting sun. Wandoo, Salmon gums and York gums dominate the reserve. The walks trails are easy and are clearly marked.
Nyinggulara (ex-Ningaloo) National Park is part of the Ningaloo (Nyinggulu) Coastal Reserves. The reserves stretch over 220km along the Ningaloo Coast from Winderabandi Pont to Red Bluff. Within the reserves, there are a few areas. These include Warroora Coast, Cardabia Coast (around Coraly Bay), Gnaraloo Coast, Quobba Coast (Red Bluff), and Nyinggulara National Park.
The Ningaloo Coast is a World Heritage site. It is known for being Australia’s largest fringing coral reef. It is also the only large reef that is very close to land. The Ningaloo Coast approximately 1200km north of Perth.
Camping at Nyinggulara National Park
Nyinggulara National Park has 5 campgrounds: Winderabandi, North Lefroy, Point Billie, South Lefroy and Janes Bay. All campgrounds are similar in terms of facilities, of which there are none. There are no toilets, no bins or any other facilities. You are required to bring a chemical toilet. There is a dump point at each campground (a short driving distance of 2km or so). You are paying for a view and a privilege to camp in a remote pristine place. The cost for camping is $10 per person per night, $5 per child. The sites must be booked online in advance through Park Stay WA . There is no national park entry fee. The good thing is that you can bring your dog there.
Point Billie
There are 39 camping spots at Point Billie and they are just a short walking distance to the beach.
The beach at Point Billie is not the best looking and has a lot of seaweed. We went to nearby South Lefroy for swimming which was very beautiful and clean. Point Billie, like other campgrounds on the Ningaloo Coast are popular for those who are into boating and fishing. In fact, nearly every second camper had a boat of some sort, when we stayed there over Easter long weekend. Despite the strong south easterly winds blowing the first 2 days we were there, we enjoyed our stay. Sunsets are magical and the closeness of the ocean is therapeutic.
Point Billie is the only campground with non-portable water. It is located at the intersection of Cardabia-Ningaloo Road and the turning point to Point Billie.
Winderabandi
Winderabandi is a medium-sized campground with 49 camping spots which vary in size. We didn’t stay there but drove to have a look. Each site looks very different. While there are some sites with privacy, others are right next to the driveway. Some sites are very close to the beach, others tucked behind the dunes. Some are too small for a caravan. There is also a big camping area literally on the beach. The surface on all the sites is very soft sand. In some areas, it may be an issue if you are towing. If you don’t mind soft sand and have a boat, this looks like a great campsite for you.
South Lefroy
South Lefroy is the probably the most beautiful place in Nyinggulara National Park. It is quite a large camping ground with 87 camping spots. The sites vary in size and position. Some of the spots are too tight and small for caravans, others are close to beach. Still others have very soft sand.
There is a mobile booster tower, at the turn off to the campground from Cardabia Ningaloo Road. It might work for certain types of phone at the turnoff to the campground but it didn’t work for us. After the turn off to the campground, the track is quite soft. There is also a small sandy hill to climb.
We did not stay at South Lefroy because we couldn’t get a spot. We tried booking online the moment bookings opened but all the spots for the dates we wanted were taken. Instead, we stayed at a nearby Point Billie and made a day trip to South Lefroy a couple of times. The beach at South Lefroy is absolutely stunning with its crystal-clear turquoise waters and wide sandy beach. You can drive on the beach. Needless to say, South Lefroy is a very popular place.
Road conditions at Nyinggulara National Park
The access to campgrounds is by 4WD only via a heavily corrugated Cardabia-Ningaloo track from Coral Bay. You can also get to Coral Bay from Exmouth via Yardi Creek crossing, if it is dry. Ningaloo Road has been closed for more than a year. This is true at the time of writing – April 2025. It is unlikely to be opened any time soon. The camp hosts told us that the closure is due to massive sand dunes shifting. This shift blocked the track. All of this was the consequence of the bushfire which burnt the dune vegetation.
Cardabia Ningaloo coastal 4WD track
It was a slow drive from Coral Bay along Cardabia Ningaloo Road for us in April 2025. The approximately 100km drive took us nearly 4 hours (we were towing and also stopping). We travelled between 15 and 35km on a heavily corrugated track, which was a mixture of sand and rocks. We knew that travelling that slow would mean that we arrived at our destination late. It turned out we arrived even later than we thought. We had to travel in the dark too. So we decided to stop along the way to have our dinner before continuing the journey.
Then we missed the turning. When coming to a fork we saw a confusing sign pointing left to Janes Bay and right to ‘camps’. What that meant is ‘other camps further up north’. By the time we realized that we missed the turning. Turning around with a caravan in tow in the dark wasn’t easy at all. It took us quite some time. The squeaky sound of the caravan breaks was horrifying when we reversed all the way into the bush. Luckily the track was wide, and we managed to get back on track.
We had a good time staying at Point Billie campground for 4 nights over Easter in April 2025.
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