We are a family of four and are nuts about traveling. Our name reflects this! We love sharing the joy and love of traveling and adventure! Let's the fun begin!
Greetings, We love the Wheatbelt! There is something so magical about the ancient granite outcrops, salt lakes, and open wheat fields. But mostly, it is the sense of vast space, peace and quiet, and a certain remoteness that draws us in.
In late September and early October, we visited a number of places in the Wheatbelt. We started at peaceful (and apparently very salty) Lake Ninan near Wongan Hills. We then moved to the north-eastern Wheatbelt, where we stayed for a couple of nights at Billiburning Rock (our second visit already). From there, we travelled to the Westonia region and visited the marvellous Sandford Rocks Reserve. Our camping spot there was Baladjie Rock (a post is yet to come). For our final destination, we travelled to Nungarin, visiting Talgomine Reserve and discovering the Chandler Ruins along the way. We spent two beautiful nights at Eaglestone Rock, near the Lake Brown camping area.
It was a jam-packed trip, full of adventures.
Stay tuned, because we are already planning our next adventures! 🙂
Chandler Ruins are the remnants of a small and short-lived mining community near Lake Campion in the Wheatbelt region of Western Australia. They are located 40km north-east of Nungarin.
How we discovered Chandler Ruins
As we drove towards Talgomine Reserve, before our camping spot at Lake Brown and Eaglestone Rock we noticed a lake on our left. Stopping there turned into an unexpected little adventure. A tourist sign drew us in, so we decided to stop. The kids immediately started exploring the old concrete remains scattered near the lake. With no onsite information and nothing available at the Nungarin Visitor Centre, the ruins felt mysterious at first.
Later research revealed their story. These remnants belong to Chandler, a World War II–era chemical mining settlement and potash processing plant established in 1942 to address fertilizer shortages. At its height, Chandler had more than 70 homes, a powerhouse, and even a school. After the war, operations briefly shifted to gypsum. However, by 1952 the entire town was shut down, sold off, and dismantled.
What you see today along the lake’s edge are the last traces of that vanished community. There are concrete foundations, kiln bases, and scattered industrial relics from Western Australia’s short‑lived wartime town.
A note for other explorers
If you are interested in exploring this little gem of history, please note that there is no proper sign or information provided at the site. However, there is a tourist attraction sign near the lake, where you can stop. On one side of the road is the old Potash mine and the salt lake with a few remnants. This is where we stopped and explored that area. We didn’t know until later, but apparently, on the other side of the road you can see what’s left of the structures of past buildings.
Sandford Rocks Nature Reserve is one of the Wheatbelt’s most significant granite outcrops, offering visitors the opportunity to experience and appreciate nature in its original and unique form. A moderately challenging 2 km loop trail leads to the summit of the rock before finishing at the bird hide.
Home to a diverse range of flora and fauna, Sandford Rocks is also a paradise for nature photographers. We spotted several ornate dragon lizards, although they were far too quick for me to capture on camera. One of the highlights was discovering tiny ducklings swimming in a gnamma hole, while our younger son was excited to find a tadpole there as well.
I was particularly delighted to come across a beautiful granite sun orchid Thelymitra petrophila, adding another special moment to our visit.
Tiny orchids like Prasophyllum gracile make their home in the shallow soil pockets on top of Sandford Rocks.
In the past Sandford Rocks used to have a name Yorky rocks, as quite a few locals told us.
Sandford Rocks Nature Reserve is located just 10 km north-east of Westonia in Western Australia’s Wheatbelt region. The reserve is easily accessible, with only a short detour from the main road required to reach the site. There are picnic facilities for visitors, making it a pleasant spot to relax and enjoy the surrounding landscape, although there are no toilets.
Once used as a freshwater supply for the nearby town of Wongan Hills (11 km to the east) in the Wheatbelt, Lake Ninan is now quite salty. It serves as a great picnic area and a free 48-hour camping spot. Facilities include picnic tables and shaded areas only. There are no toilets or bins, making this place more suitable for self-sufficient campers.
Lake Ninan can be very scenic and offers excellent photographic opportunities. It is also a well-known astrophotography location thanks to its low levels of light pollution. Unfortunately, the weather was gloomy and overcast during our visit, eliminating any chance of astrophotography. I did, however, enjoy the dramatic sunset and serene sunrise.
Overall, it is a pleasant short-term stopover, either on its own while travelling through the region. Wongan Hills is a known hot bio-diversity spot and Lake Ninan makes a good base to explore it, if you prefer bush style camping. We certainly do!
We’ve had a few technical issues with the website recently. After doing some repair work and updates, we removed Jetpack — not realising that this would also stop email notifications from going out to our subscribers. Once we understood what had happened, Jetpack was reinstalled and the subscriber list returned. So if you haven’t heard from us for a while, that’s the reason, and this message is just a little update to reconnect.
We’ve continued travelling, mostly during school holidays and public holidays. In July we spent two weeks in the Pilbara, with Cheela Plains Station as our main destination. It was a wonderful stay (even if not the cheapest), and the journey itself was just as memorable. We travelled through the Outback along the Wool Wagon Way, stopping at a few favourite free camps — including Bilung Pool, which we’ve visited before, and Ballinyoo Bridge — enjoying the solitude and quiet beauty of the landscape.
We also upgraded our caravan which you can see from our posts. This new caravan while being a bit bigger allows us to be fully self-sufficient.
There were a few more camping trips in September and October, and we’ll share those stories in the next post.
In the meantime, drop us a quick line so we know you’re receiving this update.
Cheela Plains Station in the Pilbara is a wonderfully remote stop along the Nanutarra–Munjina Road, about halfway between Paraburdoo and Tom Price. The country here is shaped by ancient geology more than two billion years old. The red rocks and iron‑rich ranges show the deep age of this landscape.
Accommodation at Cheela Plains
Cheela Plains offers two styles of accommodation. There is the main caravan park with full amenities—showers, toilets, laundry, camp kitchen. For more adventurous visitors, there are the wilderness camps located about 30 minutes away.
We chose the wilderness experience and stayed at Wilderness Fad’s Bush Camp, a secluded site tucked at the base of an ancient little gorge with sweeping views in every direction. Our nearest neighbour was far enough away that it truly felt like we had the place to ourselves.
Although the site itself has no amenities, we could still use everything at the main campground, which made the stay comfortable. The three nights cost us $243, and for the remoteness and the sense of being on a real station property, it was absolutely worth it.
While staying at Cheela Plains wildnerness camp, I took the opportunity to climb the gorge early morning while everyone else was still sleeping. It was a good workout, but I liked it. I made it just in time to see the sun rising above the horizon. The solitude, the views of the surroundings and tranquility were awesome. I also loved watching the spinifex grass and the rocky hills in the distance transform as the sun rose and cast their rays on them.
Ancient geology at Cheela Plains
During our stay we had private access to our own gorge and could explore several others around the station. The colours were incredible — banded iron formations, scattered quartzite, and warm red tones from oxidised rock. Everything looked almost magical. At sunset the rocks revealed even more depth, glowing intensely under the rays of the setting sun.
In conclusion
It was a memorable trip, that we’ll remember for a long time. We highly recommend the wilderness camps for anyone who is self‑sufficient and travelling with an appropriate vehicle and van. A 4WD is a good idea due to the rough terrain.
The Wool Wagon Pathway is an iconic self‑drive heritage route in Western Australia. Beginning in Geraldton, it travels inland through the Murchison and Gascoyne regions before reaching the northwest near Exmouth. The route follows the old stock trails once used to move wool from remote pastoral stations to the coast. Today, it offers a quiet journey through red‑earth landscapes, wide horizons and long, uninterrupted stretches of road.
What to expect
Along the way you’ll pass breakaway formations, dry riverbeds and vast open plains. From late winter into spring, seasonal wildflowers brighten the drive, with the wreath flowers near Pindar being a standout.
Bird lovers will enjoy spotting flocks of finches, robins and diamond doves across the open country.
Facilities and services
Towns are small and widely spaced, so planning ahead for food and fuel is essential. Our fuel stops were Gascoyne Junction, Murchison Settlement and Mullewa. Potable water is available at Gascoyne Junction. We relied on our own food supplies for most of the trip. A quick stop in Mullewa confirmed that shop options can be extremely limited.
Where to stay
Station stays and caravan parks are available along the pathway. Being self‑sufficient, we prefer quiet bush locations, and whenever we find a suitable spot, that becomes home for the night.
Who this drive suits
If you’re a social traveller who enjoys meeting people and visiting numerous attractions, this may not be the route for you. With small settlements, minimal traffic and expansive night skies, the Wool Wagon Pathway offers a slow, spacious experience of the outback. The real outback can be harsh and unforgiving, yet deeply soothing, beautiful and soul‑enriching — and that’s exactly why we love it.
Highlights along Wool Wagon Pathway
There are several interpretive sites scattered along the pathway. We didn’t stop at all of them, choosing only those that interested us. We previously travelled the Carnarvon–Mullewa Road in 2022 when visiting the Kennedy Ranges and Mount Augustus. The Kennedy Ranges are a major highlight and well worth a few days of exploration. The Carnarvon–Mullewa Road, which forms part of the Wool Wagon Pathway, includes places such as Bilung Pool, the Greenough River Gorges and Ballinyoo Bridge. At the southern end, Geraldton is a destination in its own right, with Ellendale Pool being a lovely stop. At the northern end, Exmouth offers an abundance of activities and natural attractions.
Ballinyoo Bridge is a historically significant river crossing in Western Australia, known for its engineering and pastoral history. It sits on the Carnarvon–Mullewa Road, about 80 km south of the Murchison Settlement, spanning the Murchison River. It is also part of the Wool Wagon Pathway.
Ballinyoo Bridge history
Built between 1929 and 1930, it was the second concrete bridge constructed in Western Australia and for many years remained the oldest concrete bridge still in use. The bridge played an important role in transport and communication across the remote Murchison district, especially during floods when other river crossings were impassable. Because of this, it is recognised as a site of high historic significance.
In September 2016, a new bridge was built to replace the original structure, with parts of the old bridge preserved as a heritage feature.
Camping area
Today, Ballinyoo Bridge is a popular free bush‑camping spot on both sides of the river. The north side is often preferred, offering quiet surroundings, easy 2WD access and plenty of bird life. There are no facilities, but it’s a peaceful and scenic place to stop.
We stayed here for one night in July and really enjoyed the tranquility of the area.
Discover the best free camping and RV‑friendly overnight spots across the Avon Valley. A quick guide to peaceful riverside stops, bush settings and convenient rest areas we’ve explored in the region.
Beverley
We always enjoy stopping in Beverley, especially for its beautiful nature reserve where I regularly check on the orchids. Like many small Avon Valley towns, Beverley offers a 24‑hour RV stop, and we’ve found it to be a peaceful, welcoming spot in a quiet township. You can stay for up to 72 hours, and the area is well set up with picnic tables, toilets, shelters and bins. It’s an ideal stop if you’re self‑sufficient and want to explore the Avon Valley or Beverley itself. With its gliding club and growing astrotourism scene, the town has more to offer than you might expect from a small outback community.
Northam
Katrine Crossing Campground (also known as Katrine Viveash Reserve) is a lovely free camping spot in the Avon Valley, just 10 minutes from Northam and right off the Northam–Toodyay Road. The campground itself is a simple clearing among the trees, but the setting on the banks of the Avon River makes it feel special. Facilities are great for a free site — flushing toilets, water, picnic tables and good mobile reception. Some areas are a bit tight for caravans and not all sites are level, but we still found a comfortable spot for the night.
It’s an excellent overnight stop when exploring the Avon Valley. Just keep an eye out for the turn‑off, especially in the dark — it’s easy to miss! The entrance is just before Katrine Road, if you travel from Northam.
York
If you are looking for a free camping spot near York, we recommend Gwambygine Rest Area. It is 10km, south of York, and it is very lovely. The campground is spacious and set right along the Avon River Ascent, giving it a peaceful, scenic feel.
Facilities are great for a free overnight stop — flushing toilets, picnic tables, BBQs, shelter, bins and water, and it’s pet friendly too. The only downside is that fires aren’t permitted, but with the rain during our stay, we wouldn’t have had one anyway.
There’s a 24‑hour limit, which makes it perfect for a quick stop while exploring the Avon Valley region. It’s also very easy to find, located just 11 km south of York on Great Southern Highway.
A simple, convenient and comfortable place for an overnight stay.
Dumbleyung, like many Wheatbelt towns, is steeped in history. This South Wheatbelt community is known for two standout features. One is Lake Dumbleyung. The other is the Blue Bird — the speedboat in which Donald Campbell set a new world water‑speed record on Lake Dumbleyung in 1964. To this day, he remains the only person to break both the World Land Speed Record and the World Water Speed Record in the same year.
As we drove through town, we noticed a sign in the window of the local pub offering free camping, along with free showers and toilets. It sounded like an incredibly generous deal. We assume the idea is that you buy dinner or at least a drink in return. We didn’t try it ourselves, but definitely made a mental note. If you’re passing through and need an overnight stop, it’s worth checking out.
And of course, the “Dunny” sign caught my eye — not every loo comes with its own painted artwork 😊.
Lake Dumbleyung
Lake Dumbleyung is the main attraction in the town that shares its name. It’s the largest natural inland lake in Western Australia, and its water levels shift dramatically depending on seasonal rainfall. Because the lake is so vast, its depth varies too. Some sections remain as salty flats, while others hold substantial water. In good years, the lake can reach depths of around 4.5 metres. Fittingly, the name Dumbleyung comes from the Aboriginal word dambeling, meaning “large lake”.
Today, most of Lake Dumbleyung is protected as a nature reserve, supporting local wildlife. When water levels allow, parts of the lake are also used for recreational activities. Visitors will find excellent picnic facilities, including toilets, tables, and non‑drinking water. Camping isn’t permitted, but it’s a lovely spot to stop for a picnic.
While the picnic area sits at the lower end of the driveway, a short climb leads to Pussy Cat Hill Lookout and the Donald Campbell Memorial.
From the top, you’re rewarded with sweeping views across the lake and surrounding landscape.
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