Being further away from Esperance, at 120km east, Cape Arid National Park is less popular than Cape Le Grand National Park but it has its own uniqueness and beauty, especially if you appreciate the outback and remoteness.
Most of Cape Arid National Park is accessible via a 4WD. However, some of it can be assessed with a 2WD via unsealed road.
What to see with a 2WD – western side
Dolphin Cove
One of the places we visited there was Dolphin Cove, easily accessible. It was a little gem for us – a picturesque white squeaky sandy beach with crystal clear waters (similar to popular Lucky Bay) although a lot smaller. It is one of the best places to spot southern right and humpback whales during their migrating season (July to October) and it is also part of a beautiful Tagon Coastal Walk Trail (14km return moderate difficulty trail). For us, it was a beautiful place to enjoy the scenery and relax.
Yokinup Bay and Thomas River
Yokinup Bay is very beautiful too. It is long, wide and scenic. We enjoyed looking for crabs at the rock pools and watching Sooty Oystercatchers when we stayed at Thomas River campground.
Thomas River separates the Belinup campground from the ocean. The access to the beach is a short walk near the mouth of the river.
Len Otte Nature trail
Len Otte Nature trail is short and easy (only 2km return). The trail leads up to Belinup Hill, featuring wonderful views of the nearby Belinup campground and the ocean. It is only a short drive (or even walk) from the campgrounds.
4WDriving on the western side of Cape Arid
Yokinup Bay 4WD beach
There is a 4WD beach access from the mouth of Thomas River. While camping on the beach is not permitted (hence there is a paid campground with facilities set up here), we found a sign that indicated that beach camping is allowed further down the beach at Yokinup Bay. As it was a long drive to the area where camping is permitted and the weather not being favourable over Xmas period, we didn’t attempt exploring. But we know that people go and camp there.
Tagon Beach
Tagon Beach track is a 4WD only access beach track in Cape Arid. It is listed as a track for experienced drivers only. The 2km track starts as hard rocky track and gets very soft and sandy closer to the beach. We did get bogged the very first time we attempted this track when we still had very little experience of 4WDriving (this is the story here). With the tyres down and maxtracks (just in case), slowly initially and then faster without stopping, we managed to drive through and get to the long stretch of white beach a couple of years later.
Apart from being beautiful, as all Esperance beaches are, this beach surprised us with unusually big and colourful jelly fishes which we have not seen in other nearby places.
Camping at Cape Arid – 2WD accessible
Thomas River (Belinup) and Yokinup Mia Mia campgrounds are the only 2 campgrounds within Cape Arid National Park that are assible with a 2WD via unsealed road. We found Belinup campground a bit quieter than the nearby Yokinup camp, located up on a hill. Both campgrounds have similar facilities which include long drop toilets, non-drinking water, shelter with bbq facilities. There are 11 sites of various sizes in Belinup campground (and 17 in Yokinup), all with lots of privacy. Yokinup camp has a kitchen, whereas Belinup camp doesn’t have one. Normally, there is a camphost in Yokinup campground but there was none at the time we visited. The ranger came daily to check on the payments and to do clean ups. He provided us with good information regarding the local area and the tracks, some of which were closed at that time.
The cost of staying at both campgrounds is the same, which is $15 per person per night, $5 per child, plus park entry fee (current at 2024). We spent a couple of days and really enjoyed our time at Belinup campground. Sites are non-bookable, so it is a good idea to arrive early if you travel during school or public holidays.
Additional info
As it is a national park, no dogs are allowed there. There are also no bins, so you would need to take all your rubbish with you. There is Optus reception (but no Telstra) there.
4WD accessible camping
There are 4 campgrounds further eastward in Cape Arid National Park, that are 4WD accessible. We stayed at Jorndee Creek campground for New Year’s Eve.
Jorndee Creek
Jorndee Creek is accessible via 1,6km soft sand track from Poison Creek Road. There are 9 camping spots there, all are well protected from the wind, with lots of privacy. Some are not very leveled and some have ants but the sites are big enough to find a good place for your vehicle, van or tent within a camping spot. Facilities include one toilet, non-drinking water, 1 picnic table with shelter. There are no bins and no dogs are allowed. The sites are non-bookable. The cost is $10 per adult, $5 per child per night. The payment is cash only in the envelope. Due to remote location, ranger does not visit daily.
The beach at Jorndee Creek is quite pleasant, within a protected small bay, with clear water, white squeaky sand and lots of interesting rocks to explore. Unfortunately, there are no walk trails around the camp, other than a short walk to the beach. We attempted hiking to Jorndee Creek via the walk trail but it was overgrown and couldn’t be accessed past a certain point. Apart from that, we enjoyed our short stay at Jorndee Creek. Fishing is popular in this area (we didn’t fish), as well as spotting whales and wildflowers in season.
Nearby Poison Creek is a great place to visit when you stay at Jorndee Creek (or Seal Creek, which was closed at the time we visited). It is a day use only area, 6km east from Jorndee Creek campsite where we stayed. The creek joins the ocean, although there was a sand bar separating it from the ocean when we went there late December. So we drove to the beach passing the end of the creek. It is a nice place to visit for a day, if you enjoy beach and fishing.
Flora and fauna at Cape Arid
If you like nature or photography, you are in for a treat at Cape Arid National Park. The wildflowers are in abundance there any time of there (but more during the season). Banksia speciosa Showy Banksia is very common throughout the park. It looks beautiful at all its different stages of growing – from tiny bud to seed.
Unfortunately, big parts of the national park are affected by Phytophthora Dieback. That is the reason some 4WD tracks are closed in winter and during wet conditions to prevent the spread. Washing your vehicle after driving on 4WD tracks in the park is also highly recommended (we washed ours in Esperance on the way back – it only costs $5).
Other plants which we saw at Cape Arid late December:
Billardiera speciosa (above far left), Billardiera heterophylla Australian Bluebell (to my best knowledge but could be wrong) – above second left, Calytrix decandra (second right), Melaleuca nesophila (above far right).
Echiopsis curta (Bardick) – small poisonous snake, which is nocturnal but can come out in overcast weather.
South-western Crevice Skink (above right).
Black Wolf Spider (above left), Australia’s iconic red bull ant (above middle), crab (above right).
Christmas Spider – Austracantha minax (above).
