June 2023 – Travel nut

Doolena Gorge

Hidden gem

Pilbara doesn’t stop to surprise us. There always seems to be the next hidden gem, waiting to be discovered, explored and delight our eyes and souls. On our way to the Gibb River Road last year, we stopped at Doolena Gorge near Marble Bar. It is a marvelous place with nice scenery. When there is enough of water, the gorge fills up with water from the De Drey River. It becomes then a pleasant picnic and camping spot. Swimming is permitted there and dogs are allowed.

Doolena Gorge is also a heaven for birds. (Below left: Black-fronted Dotterel. Below right: White-faced Heron.)

You can camp for free there but must be self-sufficient as there are no facilities.

It is a privilege and honour to camp for free at places like this – pristine, rugged and beautiful. So, please look after our outback.

There is a distinct beauty in the rugged landscape of the Pilbara outback – red iron rich rocks, yellow-green spinifex against the bright blue sky.

Sunsets and sunrises are particularly beautiful and special in the outback. There is no better way to watch them then when you camp as you can catch different colours of the sky minut changed by setting and rising sun, minute by minute.

Where is Doolena Gorge?

Doolena Gorge is approximately 41 kilometres north of Marble Bar on the Marble Bar-Port Hedland Road. The turning is just after Coongan River crossing on the left. Even though it is rated as 4WD, the dirt road is not long and we think it would be fine for a 2WD if you take it easy and slow (although you might not be able to go all the way). When you get to the place, you can go closer to the actual gorge if you have a 4WD.

Ivanhoe River Crossing

Ivanhoe River Crossing, north of Kununurra is an iconic place and a must do for any 4WD enthusiast travelling through the Kimberley Region and the Gibb River Road. It is a concrete one-way causeway over the Ord River, which was part of the main road to Wyndham during the old days. But nowadays, it is a place where travellers go to tick off their “bucket list”. So, it is really just crossing the river and going back. Many people (especially those with no 4WD) come just to watch others do it. It is also a popular fishing spot. Salt water crocodiles inhibit these waters, so swimming is not safe there.

The river crossing is closed during wet season (usually November to March). So, Australian winter, which is considered dry season, is best for visiting and crossing.

Where is Ivanhoe River Crossing?

It is along Ivanhoe Road, 10-15 minutes’ drive north of Kununurra in East Kimberley.

Driving through the water along Ivanoe River Crossing

Roebuck Bay

Red sand beach with turquoise water and green mangrove trees. — Red Sand Beach

Roebuck Bay is the magical place that delighted and amazed us with its striking colours – red sand, turquoise ocean and green mangroves. It is a great place for a picnic, fishing, not to mention awesome photography (best at high tide). Camping is available at nearby Bird Observatory (we didn’t stay there, so can’t comment).

This place is an internationally significant wetland where you can see a huge number and variety of migratory shorebirds.

Where is Roebuck Bay?

It is on the coast in the Kimberley region of Western Australia. The actual place that is on the picture (Red Sand Beach) is about half an hour drive south of Broome, along Crab Creek Road, 1km from Broome Bird Observatory. The road is sandy and corrugated for 16km or so, so 4WD is recommended.

Corrugated road on the way to Roebuck Bay

James Price Point

What is so unique about James Price Point?

James Price Point, 60km north of Broome is absolutely one of our favourites. It’s the place we would like to come back again, despite the corrugated road (roughly 32km of corrugation) to get there. The bright red pindan cliffs backing into the ocean make you feel like you are on another planet. Mars, maybe? The tidal currents at James Price Point are simply phenomenal and so fascinating to observe. Add to this, the thrill of the possibility of finding ancient dinosaur footsteps (at the right tidal conditions) or sight of a dangerous salt water crocodile. James Price Point is so pristine and exquisitely beautiful that you really want to thread lightly and leave no trace of human presence there.

Surprisingly, it is actually the place where you can camp for free. With absolutely no facilities provided, you need to be self-sufficient or hide the traces very carefully (and with hard rocks and no bushland, it is tricky 😊).

Honestly, we think this place is not going to be free forever. So, while it is, take a detour to see it, but take good care of this exceptional place.

Where is James Price Point?

James Prices Point is north of Broome, off Cape Leveque Road. You would need a 4WD to get there and deflate your tyres once you hit the corrugated dirt road.

Deflating tyres oon Manari Road on the way to James Price Point

Tides

The Kimberley coast has the biggest tides in the southern hemisphere. This is due to the shape and size of the continent which allows the tides to grow much larger compared to other places. The difference between high and low tides can be up to 10 meters.

The tide comes really fast. When the water recedes back into the ocean, it creates intricate patterns on the sand, many of which look like paintings of trees. It is such a delight for a photographer or a lover of nature.

James Price Point at dawn, dusk and night

The magical hour (an hour before sunrise and an hour after sunrise) is the best for taking landscape photos. The colours of the sky painted by the setting or rising sun are simply amazing.

Stars and the Milky Way have been attracting people’s attention since the beginning of time. In the old days, sailors and the local Aboriginal people alike, used them to navigate on their journeys. Nowadays, they add such a beautiful background to the pictures taken by many photographers. Even if you are not a photographer, there is hardly anyone, who would be impartial to see the arch of the Milky Way in the dark sky on a cold winter night. There is a sense of mystery and adventure that pulls people’s eyes and souls to the stars that are within many light years of reach from us.

Marble Bar

Jasper deposits

Marble Bar, known as the hottest town in Australia, gets its name from a local deposit of colourful mineral that was thought to be marble and turned out to be jasper.

The jasper deposits cross the Coongan River, forming Marble Bar Pool and adjacent to it Chinaman Pool. Both are both very picturesque picnic spots, only 5 minutes’ drive from Marble Bar town.

Marble Bar is a small mining town, approximately 1500km north east of Perth on the Great Northern Highway.

Camping in spinifex country

Pilbara is a beautiful region, characterized by red colour, iron rich earth. There are so many pristine places there, including some awesome free camps, waiting to be discovered. But sometimes, the nigh falls before you can reach your destination. This happens to us from time to time. Quite often a solution is to pull out from the road – as long as there is a side road and clearing. On our long trip up north last year, we did just that.

Our camp for that cold night in July was what in Wikicamp is marked as Kate’ Pit. It turned out to be a perfect spot for a night like that.

Morning revealed beautiful scenery – typical Australian outback. Low winter sun was casting warm light onto the rough spiky spinifex grass, contrasting red rocky outcrops and blue sky. Stops like this one become a precious experience because of the opportunity to connect with nature and discover hidden beauty in remote outback.

Kate’s Pit is a large gravel pit, off the road, with no facilities, 38km south of Marble Bar.

We love every bit of Pilbara – including its red rocks and dirt endless roads!