Cockburn Ranges

Flying over 5 rivers in East Kimberley

Cockburn Ranges is one of the iconic places in East Kimberley region, north-east of Western Australia. It is a prominent landmark, that rises over 600 meters high above the surrounding plains. This scenic place is a must to see for those travelling along the Gibb River Road or visiting El Questro. It is beautiful and every changing and one of the ways to see Cockburn Ranges is from the air.

Cockburn Ranges Scenic Flight

Seeing a landscape from a bird’s eye view gives you a different perspective. First, you can see different angles of the same place. Second, there is an opportunity to appreciate the vastness and the expanse of the land. Third, you can spot some details that might not be visible from below. This was the idea behind taking a scenic flight with Aviair from Kununurra to see Cockburn Ranges and the mighty Kimberley rivers. Unfortunately, it was not the best day for scenic flights. There was a lot of haze from controlled burning up in the air. In addition, the position of the sun was often in the wrong direction at times. Yet, we enjoyed the flight and made the best of our experience (despite feeling a bit airsick in that tiny airplane ☹).

Mudflats and Five Rivers Lookout at Wyndham

Wyndham is West Australia’s most northerly town, located 100km north from Kununurra, and it is the best place to see where the 5 Kimberley mighty rivers – the Durack, King, and Pentecost to the south, Forrest to the west and Ord to the east – combine and enter the Cambridge Gulf. Mesmerizing mudflats formed by the rivers, their colours, shapes and patterns are a photographer’s dream. We first saw these unique and beautiful mudflats from the Five Rivers Lookout on the top of the Bastion Range at Wyndham.

Then we drove 100km to Kununarra to take Colours of the Cockburn Ranges scenic flight to see those amazing mudflats from above. It was unforgetable experience!

Kimberley native flora

Kimberley native flora is fascinating for anyone who appreciates nature and photography. The northernmost region of Western Australia is one of the most beautiful and unique places on Earth, with rich landscape, flora and fauna. The diversity of the landscape means there is also a great diversity of the plants and trees. With over 2000 plant and tree species, many are unique to the Kimberley region and are, thus, an important part of the ecosystem, providing food for the animals, birds and insects.

Boab tree

Boab tree (Adansonia gregorii) is an icon of the Kimberley region. It’s the only region in WA (and in the whole of Australia, with the exception of parts of NT) where it grows wild and in huge numbers. It is a large, slow growing deciduous tree, characterized by unique bottle-shaped trunk. These are very hardy trees, which can grow over a thousand years.

We found boab trees very fascinating. No boab tree is the same. Each boab tree has a unique shape, size and character. Each has a story to tell – some look huge, fat and mighty. Others look tall, slim and elegant. Still others look like Siamese twins with a few stems grown together.

Within the same season (even within the same week) you can find boab trees that look completely bare, some that are partially covered in leaves, some are quite green, full of leaves and even fruits.

We consider ourselves very lucky to have seen a boab flower, which is a big creamy flower, normally occurring in summer and we have seen it in July, which is a dry winter season in Kimberley. Interestingly, each boab flower only lasts one day.

Boab tree flower

The fruits of boab tree are eatable by animals and people and are very rich in Vitamin C (although we haven’t tried them ourselves).

Boab tree fruit

This is the famous Prison Boab near Derby on the west coast. Its significance refers to the 1890s when it was used a rest point for police and escorted Aboriginal prisoners en-route to Derby.

Prison Boab near Derby

Apart from the Boab tree, there are a  number of other interesting trees growing in the Kimberley.

Kapok tree

Kapok Tree (Cochlospermum fraseri) is a common deciduous tree found in Kimberley, in the north of Western Australia. It can grow up to 7 meters, has large pretty yellow flowers and large egg-shaped seed pods. Both flowers and young roots can be consumed. Likewise, the silky kapok inside the pod is put to good use too – to stuff mattresses and pillows. Hence theres is an alternative name for this tree – cotton tree.

Kimberley Rose

Kimberley Rose or the Sticky Kurrajong (Brachychiton viscidulus) tree only grows in the Kimberley region of Western Australia. It is a deciduous tree, that can be as high as 10 meters long. It produces massive display of scarlet red sticky flowers during the dry (winter) season, after it sheds its leaves.

Livistona palm

Livistona palm (Livistona nasmophila) is native to Kimberley area in Western Australia (as well as part of Northern Territory). It can grow up to 18 meters high, forming a canopy above, providing cooling shade underneath. We saw this plant at Zebedee Springs in El Questro and also at Echidna Chasm gorge in Purnululu National Park (both in Kimberley).

Zebedee Springs in El Questro
Echidna Chasm in Purnululu NP

Mulla mulla

Mulla mulla (Ptilotus exaltatus) is a common annual plant growing up to 1,2 meters in most regions of Australia. We saw it first growing in Pilbara and we fell in love with it straightaway. This particular plant was photographed at James Price Point in West Kimberley.

Pink Mulla mulla at James Price Point

Mimbi Caves

Mimbi Caves

The campground

Mimbi Caves nature-based campground in Kimberley on Great Northern Highway (between Fitzroy Crossing and Halls Creek) was a pleasant surprise and a real treat for us before heading back home after completing the Gibb River Road trip back in July. Owned and operated by Indigenous Gooniyandi people, the campground is located on a large property and has a bush feel, yet it has modern amenities, which include clean flushing toilets, hot showers, bbq shelter, kitchen sink and communal firepit.

The campground is small enough to feel secluded, yet big enough to meet fellow travellers. It so well laid out and organized that it is very easy to park when you have a caravan. The sites are big and separated from each other with pockets of space and some trees.

We liked the unique indigenous feel of this place, the outback setting and well-organized space. Highly recommended, not just as an overnight stop, but as a place to relax and get to know indigenous people and their culture.

The tour

The Mimbi caves are accessible only through a tour with local Gooniyandi people and the tour was quite a highlight of our trip to Kimberley. We love caves but the experience of this cave started even before entering the cave itself. In fact, the limestone rock formations at Mimbi are so unique and beautiful that we were already happy just wandering around those amazing nature sculptured structures while hearing the ancient Dreamtime stories of the Blue Tongue Lizard that created the hills at Mimbi.

But our guide Ronnie also led us through the caves, pointing out fossils, ancient rock art, while sharing more stories.

Ancient rock art

Those who were brave enough could swim in the icy cold freshwater pools flowing through the caves (not us 😊).

Inside the Mimbi Caves

The tour concluded with tea, damper and walking around fire ceremony (and more stories 😊).

Avon Valley National Park

Avon Valley National Park unsealed road

Avon Valley National Park, 1-hour drive from Perth, a great place for hiking and camping. We found it not as popular and busy as some other national parks closer to the city. With no sealed roads, it is a bushland area, spanning 4800ha.

Avon Valley National Park is a place to go camping. It has 5 camp grounds with basic facilities, which include picnic tables (some with shade), fire pits and toilets. Camping fees apply. As we haven’t camped there, we can’t provide more information but you can find it on this website.

Homestead campground in Avon Valley National Park
Homestead campground in Avon Valley NP

There are no defined hiking trails but, nonetheless, it is a great place for nature lovers. It has a few species of eucalyptus and grass trees (Xanthorrhoea) and is one of the best places to see wildflowers.

Grass tree bushland at Avon Valley National Park
Grass tree bushland

Even in November (which is not the prime month for seeing wildflowers) we managed to spot a few of them.

Wildflowers

Rhodanthe chlorocephala Pink white everlasting (above).

False Boronia (Lysiandra calycina) – above (left). Lobelia species (above right).

Fauna of Kimberley

Kimberley fauna is unique, diverse and fascinating. The first thing that comes to mind when talking about fauna of Kimberley is crocodiles! There is no surprise. There are plenty of them in Kimberley and they can be extremely dangerous to humans.

Crocodiles

There are two types of crocodiles found in Australia (and both are in Kimberley) – saltwater or estuarine crocodiles and freshwater or Johnston’s river crocodiles. Saltwater crocodiles are big (up to 7 meters long) and are dangerous to humans and we’ve only seen from the far distance (at El Questro). Contrary to their name, they live in fresh waters too, up to 200km away from the coast and can attack in less than a second.

Saltwater crocodile seen from Branko’s Lookout at El Questro

Fresh waters crocodiles are much smaller (not more than 3 meters long), have smaller teeth and narrow snout. They live in creeks, rivers, billabongs and are often seen sunbathing on the shore. While they are non-aggressive, they can bite if disturbed, so it is still safer to admire them from a distance.

Windajana Gorge is one of the best places on the Gibb River Road to see fresh water crocodiles.

We also saw freshwater crocodiles in Emma Gorge along the Gibb River Road.

Lake Argyle is home to an estimated 30,000 fresh water crocodiles (and yes, you can still swim there – we did!). So, that is another place to see them and taking a cruise is the best way to see crocodiles (and many other interesting animals and birds).

Among other interesting creatures that we saw in Kimberley were olive python, rock wallabies and sugar glider.

Kimberley Fauna – more than crocodiles

Olive pythons are the second-largest Python species in Australia. They can grow up to 3.5 meters long and the sub-species in Pilbara region can grow up to 5 meters long (we saw one rather large olive python in Millstream Chichester NP). Olive pythons are found in northern parts of Australia. They can often be seen near creeks but also in woodlands, open forests and savannah. We were lucky to spot one in Silent Grove campground near the creek (Actually, we were shown the python by fellow travellers, for that we are very grateful).

Olive python

Sugar glider is a small nocturnal gliding possum, found in the northern parts of Australia in eucalyptus woodlands. It feeds on gum and the sap of eucalyptus trees. This little cute Sugar Glider was on the Eucalyptus next to our camping spot in Silent Grove campground. We were lucky enough to watch it feeding on the nectar of the Eucalyptus tree flowers for 2 days we spent there (although not lucky enough to see it flying).

Rock wallabies are yet another type of unique animals we saw in Kimberley – in Lake Argyle. We took a morning cruise and were shown the whole colony of them, sunbathing on the rocks.

Birds of Kimberley

The Kimberley region, comprising 420,000 square kilometres has diverse landscape, ranging from rugged ranges, savannas and pristine coastlines. The diversity of the landscape means great variety of the birds.

Australian Pelican (Left: Lake Argyle, right – Roebuck Bay)

Pied Heron near Lake Argyle
Great Egret at Lake Argyle
Brown Goshawk, Hann River, Gibb River Road
Black-fronted Dotterel, Windjana Gorge, the Gibb River Road
Double-barred Finch Silent Grove, the Gibb River Road
Great Bowerbird Silent Grove, the Gibb River Road
Little Corella. Silent Grove, the Gibb River Road
White-faced Heron, Galvans Gorge, the Gibb River Road
Yellow-tinted Honeyeater. Pentecost River, The Gibb River Road
Red-tailed Black-Cockatoo, the Gibb River Road
Zebra finch, Purnululu NP
Budgerigar, Purnululu NP

Whistling Kite, Purnululu NP (above)

Masked Lapwing, 80 Mile Beach (above)

Black Falcon, Derby
Red Kite, Roebuck Bay

Grey Butcherbird, Stanley 24 hour rest area, 80 Mile Beach, West Kimberley (above)

Crested pigeon (right) and Grey Butcherbird (left), Stanley 24 hour rest area, 80 Mile Beach

Red-winged parrot, Stanley 24 hour rest area, 80 Mile Beach (above)

Little Friarbird, Stanley 24 hour rest stop, 80 Mile Beach

Purnululu NP (Bungle Bungles)

Purnululu NP (Bungle Bungles) in Eastern Kimberley is one of 4 in Western Australia World Heritage sites. It is listed for its incredible natural beauty and outstanding geological value. Purnululu means “sandstone” in Aboriginal language. It is an amazing place, which was on our bucket list for a long time. Finally, in 2022 we had a chance to visit it. We incorporated the visit there to our Gibb River Road trip.

Driving in Purnululu NP (Bungle Bungles) is an adventure in itself.

Southern walks

We spent 2 full days exploring the park. On the first day we explored the Southern part of the park, which is home to Bungle Bungle Range. This is where you can see amazing orange and black banded beehive-shaped domes. Some of which are as high as 250 meters and are believed to be 360 million years old.  You can marvel at the beauty and amazing colours of the domes right from the Piccaninny Car Park.

Piccaninny Car Park

You can also go for a short walk around the domes to appreciate their incredible size, unique patterns and texture.

The size of the domes in comparison

The mystery behind the colours of the banding in the domes

The domes’ striking orange and black bands are caused by the presence or absence of the cyanobacteria. Dark bands indicate the presence of the cyanobacteria that form on the outer surface of the rock. This helps to slow down the erosion. The orange bands are oxidized iron compounds that have dried out too quickly for the cyanobacteria to grow.

Helicopter flight over the Bungle Bungle domes

To appreciate the size and beauty of the Bungle Bungle domes we took an afternoon helicopter flight over the range with HeliSpirit. It was a truly unforgettable and rewarding experience to see the whole range from the bird’s eye view and have a closer look at the surface of the range and domes.

Cathedral Gorge

Part of the Bungle Bungle Range in Purnululu National Park is an incredible Cathedral Gorge. A moderate difficulty 2km return walk takes you through the domes, potholes, cliffs and honeycomb rocks to a natural amphitheatre which amplifies every sound and is such a delightful place to be, especially during warm sunny day, as it is very cooling inside.

Cathedral Gorge

Northern walks

Kungkalanayi Lookout

Kungkalanayi Lookout is an impressive lookout with 360-degree views of the surrounding land, including parts of the Bungle Bungle range. It is only a short (500 meters) walk from the carpark and a great stop on the way to see the gorges in the northern part of Purnululu National Park.

Echidna Chasm

While the domes are the highlight and one reason for Purnululu’s World Heritage Site listing, Echidna Chasm gorge is the highlight of the northern part of Purnululu park and the second reason for its World Heritage listing. Starting as an easy walk through the gorge, lined with lush green Livistona palms against the striking orange colours of the sandstone, this beautiful trail takes you into 180-meter-deep chasm, cut knife-like into the sandstone.

The best time to be inside Echidna Chasm is between 11 and 12 o’clock when the sun is directly overhead and casts a ray of light deep inside the chasm. The sunlight reflected from the sandstone glows in the striking orange colour in a narrow chasm creating incredible visual effect of lava like pouring through the sky.

Staying at Purnululu National Park

There are many accomodation options at Purnululu NP, ranging from caravan park at the entrance for those who are not able or willing to take a challenging 53km long 4WD road to the park, to tour operated luxury tents, to DPAW managed bush camps within the park.

We stayed at Walardi campground, which is 12km drive from the visitor centre in the southern park of the park (The northern park has its own similar campground). Both campgrounds need to be booked online. There are toilets and non-drinking water at the campground.


The nights in July there were very cold.

Breakfast in Walardi campground, Purnululu National Park.

Lake Argyle

Lake Argyle, located 70km south of Kununurra in the Kimberley region in the north east is Western Australia’s largest and Australia’s second largest fresh water man-made lake. Holding as much water as 19 Sydney harbours, it has a surface of over 100 square km and more than 70 islands. The lake was created in 1973 by construction of a dam to direct the Ord River (once the fastest flowing river in Australia) which enabled development of the agricultural industry in the Ord Valley.

Famous 35-meter Infinity Pool at Lake Argyle Caravan Park, where we stayed

Wildlife and the speed boat cruise

Lake Argyle is home to an estimated 30,000 fresh water crocodiles (and yes, you can still swim there – we did!), 150,000 waterbirds, 26 species of fish and some unique animals, like rock wallabies.

Rock Wallabies

Fresh water crocodiles

One of the best ways to see all these animals, birds and fishes is to take a cruise. During our 2-hour morning cruise on a speed boat we only covered 25% of the lake, which gave us an idea of just how vast the lake is.

Hikes and walks

Lake Argyle has some amazing walks, hikes and drives around it. Dead Horse Springs and Spillway Creek (4 and 10km respectively from the Caravan Park) were nice spots for watching birdlife.

Dead Horse Springs (below)

Great Egret (above left). Pied Heron (above right)

Spillway Creek (above)

Pannikin Bay Sunset Lookout (via a short but quite rocky 4WD only track) offered magnificent views of the lake. The changing colours of the lake and bushes were mesmerizing to watch.

Pannikin Bay Sunset Lookout (above)

Kings Park wildflowers

Calytrix breviseta blooming at Kings Park

If you are looking for a place to view Australian native wildflowers in Perth, Kings Park wildflowers will surely delight you. Kings Park is one of the world’s largest and most beautiful inner city parks. Two thirds of the 400 hectar park is a bushland with many easy walking trails to admire native flora and fauna. Kings Park is also home to the Western Australian Botanic Garden with over 3000 unique plant species on display. If you are looking for a place to see the wildflowers in Perth, Kings Park should definitely be the first on the list!

Kangaroo Paw

Kangaroo paws (Anigozanthos) are unique and distinct wildflowers. There are 11 species within the group. Red and green kangaroo paw is considered as floral emblem of Western Australian, because it is found naturally only in this state.

Red and green kangaroo paw (Anigozanthos manglesii) – left. Dwarf Green kangaroo paw – top right. Black kangaroo paw – bottom right.

Eucalyptus

Eucalyptus is a genus of more than 700 species of flowering trees and shrubs in the myrtle family, Myrtaceae.

Bookleaf Mallee Eucalyptus kruseana (above) is an attractive looking eucalyptus with highly decorative grey foliage, often used by florists due to unusual interesting shape of leaves. Bookleaf Mallee has small yellow flowers, appearing in winter and early spring.

Eucalyptus macrocarpa (above) is one of the most fascinating and spectacular eucalyptuses due to its silvery leaves contrasting bright red and very big flowers. In fact, macrocarpa’s flowers are the largest flowers among all eucalyptuses and can reach up to 10cm in diameter. The buds are particularly interesting in different stages of opening. Flowering from late August to early summer.

Large-fruited Mallee Eucalyptus youngiana (above) has large flowers in red, yellow or cream colour. The gumnuts that the follow the flowers are quite interesting looking. This tree flowers July to December.

Eucalyptus rhodantha Rose Mallee (above) has large flowers up to 7cm in diameter, ranging from pink to brigh red colour, with some rare ones in cream colour. It generally flowers from July to January.

Kingsmill’s Mallee Eucalyptus kingsmillii (above) is another interesting eucalyptus. Its buds are quite distinct and they always occur in groups of 3. The flowers are mostly pinkish but can vary from red to pale yellow. Kingsmill’s Mallee flowers from April to September.

Square-fruited Mallet Eucalyptus brandiana (above) has extraordinarily large green leaves and very large fruits and flowers up to 5 cm across. Red colour four-winged pendulous buds (hence the name Square-Fruited) look particurlaly interesting. Square-fruited Mallet mainly flowers from August to December.

Banksia

Banksia is a genus of around 170 species in the plant family Proteaceae. These Australian wildflowers have characteristic cone like flower heads.

Banksia ashbyi (top left) has a long flowering period – from February to December. A different type of banksia – Banksia blechnifolia (top right) flowers from September to November.

Banksia pilostylis (top left) blooms from October to January. Honeypot Dryandra Banksia nivea (top right) flowers from August till November. The colours of the flowers include cream, yellow, orange, pink, red and brown.

Scarlet banksia Banksia coccinea (top left) is one of the most attractive banksias. It has large bright scarlet flowers, appearing between May and January.

Hooker’s Banksia Banksia hookeriana (above) flowers from April to October.

Grevillea

Grevillea, also known as spider flowers, is a genus of about 360 species of evergreen flowering plants in the family Proteaceae. Grevilleas are mostly shrubs, with the leaves arranged alternately along the branches.

Darwinia

Darwinia, also known as mountain bells, is a genus of about 70 species of evergreen shrubs in the family Myrtaceae. As the common name suggests, Darwinia flowers are in the shape of a bell.

Cranbrook Bell (Darwinia meeboldii) – top left. Darwinia oxylepis (Gillam’s Bell) – top right.

Mogumber Bell Darwinia Carnea – top left. Qualup Bell Pimelea physodes – top right.

Eremophila

Eremophila is a genus of more than 260 species of plants in the figwort family, Scrophulariaceae. Eremophilas are widespread in the arid areas of Australia. Eremophila has unique tube like flowers with the bottom petals larger than the top petals.

Boronia

Boronia is a genus of about 160 species of flowering plants in the citrus family Rutaceae.

Aniseed boronia (Boronia crenulata) – top left. Boronia heterophylla (Lipstick) – top right.

Verticordia

Verticordia is a genus of more than 100 species of plants, also known as featherflowers, in the myrtle family, Myrtaceae. They range in form from small shrubs to trees. Verticordia has unique feather like flowers (hence the name) that appear to be in groups, in various colours, except blue.

Plumed feather flower (Verticordia plumosa) – top left. Verticordia fragrans – top middle. Verticordia etheliana – top right.

Daisy

Daisy (the Asteraceae) is a family of more than 32,000 species, many of which are very bright and colourful.

Above: Schoenia filifolia – first tow left. Albany Daisy (Actinodium cunninghamii) – first tow middle. Pink paper daisy (rhodanthe chlorocephala rosea) – first row right. Native daisy (roebuckiella ciliocarpa) – second row left. Native daisy (roebuckiella ciliocarpa) – second row middle. Pompom Head Cephalipterum – second row right.

and many more…

other flowers (which I couldn’t put into specific groups due to my limited knowledge).

To sum up, if you are a wildflower lover, Kings Park widlflowers will not disappoint you. While end of winter and spring are the prime times to visit, there is always something blooming throughout the whole year. With so much more to see and experience in Kings Park, it is a also a popular picnic and meeting place for locals and tourists alike. More information here.

Disclaimer:

As I am not a wildflower professional and only learning about plants, there are might be errors related to the names. Feel free to comment with any corrections.

Stirling Range NP

Bluff Knoll is the third highest mountain peak in Western Australia and is the highest in Stirling Range

Stirling Range NP is one of the best places in Western Australia for hiking, as well as to view wildflowers. Over 1500 species of plants grow there, with some plants not existing anywhere else in the world. Some plants are easy to spot and they are quite abundant. Others are rare and threatened flora and very hard to find, as it is protected. Certain types of wildflowers, like mountain bells, only grow in altitudes higher than 300 meters above sea level.

Bluff Knoll flora

The plants below were all photographed while climbing Bluff Knoll hiking trail.

East and West of Stirling Range NP

I found these wildflowers in Stirling Range National Park in places, other than Bluff Knoll. We stayed at Stirling Range Retreat, where a lot of orchids, as well as other plants grow.

Porongurup Range wildflowers

Porongurup Range wildflowers -Utricularia multifida (pink petticoats

Porongurup Range wildflowers are a real treat for nature and photography enthusiasts. Porongurup Range is considered the oldest mountain range in the world and is internationally recognised as “biodiversity hotspot” in the South West region of Western Australia. More than 700 native species of wildflowers are growing within tall karri and open jarrah forests in Porongurup Range National Park.

These are just some of the wildflowers we spotted during our hikes there.

For information about the hiking trails in Porongurup Range National Park, check out our other post here.