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Bluff Knoll is the third highest mountain peak in Western Australia and is the highest in Stirling Range
Stirling Range NP is one of the best places in Western Australia for hiking, as well as to view wildflowers. Over 1500 species of plants grow there, with some plants not existing anywhere else in the world. Some plants are easy to spot and they are quite abundant. Others are rare and threatened flora and very hard to find, as it is protected. Certain types of wildflowers, like mountain bells, only grow in altitudes higher than 300 meters above sea level.
Bluff Knoll flora
The plants below were all photographed while climbing Bluff Knoll hiking trail.
I found these wildflowers in Stirling Range National Park in places, other than Bluff Knoll. We stayed at Stirling Range Retreat, where a lot of orchids, as well as other plants grow.
Porongurup Range wildflowers are a real treat for nature and photography enthusiasts. Porongurup Range is considered the oldest mountain range in the world and is internationally recognised as “biodiversity hotspot” in the South West region of Western Australia. More than 700 native species of wildflowers are growing within tall karri and open jarrah forests in Porongurup Range National Park.
These are just some of the wildflowers we spotted during our hikes there.
Porongurup Range National Park was a pleasant surprise despite unfriendly weather over the long weekend in September (2022). Considered as the oldest mountain range in Australia, Porongurup is over 1 billion years old. It is located 15km east of Mount Barker in the South West region of WA. Staying for only 2 days there was definitely not enough to see and experience everything this beautiful place has to offer. So we missed on the famous Granite Skywalk (due to some mishaps and unfavorable weather). But we did climb Devils Slide, which is the highest peak in Porongurup (670 meters).
Devils Slide
The view over the range from Devils Slide
It was a challenging and lengthy hike for someone of just average level of fitness. The trail starts from the Tree-in-the-Rock carpark. The first part of the trail (Wansbrough walk) is a relatively easy uphill path. It is 1600 meters in length and goes through majestic karri forest.
Easy Wansbrough walk
It is a beautiful trail with towering trees, lush vegetation, rich in colours, patterns, shapes and textures. The forest is full of sounds of the birds and scent of the plants.
Colours, patterns, shapes and textures of Porongurup Range karri forest
Arriving at the intersection (at the end of Wansbrough walk) we turned right to follow 2,5km one way steep and slippery (due to wet weather) Devils Slide trail to the summit.
Climbing up Devils Slide trail
The views on the way up were magnificent.
On the way upDevils Slide before rain came
As we reached the summit, the weather changed from sunny to a thick cloud enveloping us with nearly zero visibility This was followed by rain – all within a few minutes. It was quite an experience 😊.
Thick fog and clouds as we reached Devils Slide
Tree in the rock
Tree in the rock is a unique tree growing through the crack in a rock in Porongurup National Park. It does not stand out as an attraction by itself, but a short walk from the carpark towards it through the forest is nice.
Tree in the rockTree in the rock walk
Walitj Meil walk
Walitj Meil trail in Porongurup Range National Park is a short and pleasant hiking trail (only 1km return). It is a great alternative for those who are not fit enough to climb nearby Castle Rock or don’t have enough time for it. Walitj is an Aboriginal name for a wedge-tailed eagle, which is a Noongar totem. Eagles mostly seen flying high in the sky, above the mountain peaks where they nestle.
Walitj Meil
Walitj Meil trail is best enjoyed if you like to take your time and enjoy noticing little (as well as big) things around you. First, it is the textures of the trunks of the trees. Second, it is the patterns of the leaves. Third, it is the colours of the flowers. And lastly, it is the shapes of the plants. The majestic karri forest through which the trail goes, is full of sounds – birds’ song, rustling of the leaves and grass, squeaking of the tree branches, howling of the wind. Forest in Porongurup Range is very much alive and rich, waiting to be discovered and appreciated in its natural beauty.
Before you embark on the Gibb River trip, it is good to know what to expect. Here, we share our experience.
The experience
We completed our Gibb River Road journey on 19 of July 2022. It was definitely the most challenging trip, we’ve done so far, resulting in a few damages to the 4WD. At the same time, it was a very rewarding, interesting and fulfilling experience. We’ve met many wonderful fellow travelers on the road (hope we meet again!). We have encountered quite a lot of fresh water crocodiles. Not to mention, that we’ve seen a number of beautiful gorges, many rivers and creeks.
Pentecost River crossing near at El Questro
Quick summary
Our caravan has survived, travelling at mostly 20-40km/h on worst sections of the road (between Mt Barnett and Ellenbrae stations) at 26psi. Still more adventures to come with Lake Argyle and Bungles Bungles ahead of us!
Total 11 nights. Overnight stops:Windjana Gorge, Silent Grove, Mt Barnett and 3 nights free camping at Hann River, Durack river and Pentecost river plus 3 nights at El Questro. Damages: punched rear airbags on the 4WD, broken car key, main car battery holder broke, rear view mirror came off, UHF radio antenna broken, compressor pump hose leaked. And lots of dirt and dust in the car and van.
At the end
The end of Gibb River Road trip looked like this: red dust that is absorbed into your skin and won’t come off. Your palms will look 10 years older but your soul will feel 20 years younger after doing the Gibb – no manicure services required 😊.
It is an adventure of a lifetime, but we feel that we’ve only scratched the surface of what this beautiful part of the world can offer. We’ll definitely be back to explore what we’ve missed, going further into unknown, growing and evolving as we challenge ourselves to new experiences while exploring this world.
Hann River and Durack River crossings were some of the most memorable river crossings for us along the Gibb River Road (apart from the famous Pentecost River). We even camped there!
Hann River
Hann River free camp ground is 60km from Manning Gorge (going east). It is close to the road, along Hann River (as the name suggests). We camped on the right side, just after the river (travelling from west to east). As we arrived late, there was just one place for us with at least 7 campers already there.
However, we discovered later that just after the turning, there was another track on the right with a big clearing enough for many more vehicles. So if you arrive late and are looking for a spot to rest for the night, there is definitely space for everyone.
The Gibb River Road crossing the Hann River
No doubt, if you are closer to the river, you get nicer views. But you can also go for a walk and enjoy those same views which are really amazing. Trees lining the river create a beautiful reflection in the water. They are also home to a lot of birds. Some people even go for a swim (or at least a waddle) in the river. If you are not keen on swimming, simply spending a bit of time near the river in that beautiful place, be it overnight or a few days, is really worth it. Just make sure you keep the place clean when you leave, so the next traveller can enjoy too 😊.
Places like this offer a wonderful opportunity to meet other travellers and share experiences. We still have fond memories of the Turner family (with your 4 bright children) we met at Hann River in July😊.
Durack River
Durack River is one of the major rivers in Kimberley. Like many other rivers, it crosses the Gibb River Road. Rising below the Durack Range and flowing north in East Kimberley, it is another picturesque place to discover, explore and rest by. While the river was flowing when we visited in July, the crossing on the Gibb was dry.
It is worth remembering that much of the land along the Gibb River Road is privately owned. Consequently, it is important to respect the land, so that it can be enjoyed by many generations to come. Leaving the place clean and in a better condition than you find it, is something we all can do. It is a way of paying for the privilege of stepping on the ancient land and enjoying one of the world’s last remaining wilderness areas.
No trip along the Gibb River Road is complete without crossing the iconic Pentecost River. While it can be deep and very wide during wet season, it is relatively easy to cross during dry season. It is the place where every traveller would stop to take pictures. We’ve seen hundreds of vehicles crossing the river in one day. Many of them were dropping passengers on one side of the river and made round trips to take that ideal photograph. We also saw quite a few tow trucks passing by, pulling broken vehicles in both directions. Salt water crocodiles inhibit the river (although we did not see any), thus swimming or waddling through can be dangerous.
Pentecost river is an excellent place for catching barramundi. Although, we did not catch anything when we visited in July. We heard that it was too cold and not the season for barramundi.
It is also a popular camping spot for many travellers and a happy meet up place with other fellow travellers whom you’ve made acquaintances earlier the trip along the Gibb River Road (hello to Jason and Anthony from eastern states and their families 😊. We will always remember you and your cheering us on crossing the river).
Camping along Pentecost River
The sunsets at the Pentecost river are amazing with the purple, pink and orange colours of the sky being reflected in the river.
Located about 100km from Kununurra in East Kimberley, EL Questro is a popular destination for anyone travelling on the Gibb River Road, as well as for many more tourists entering from the east of Western Australia. This 700,000 acre private property is home to some amazing gorges, thermal springs, adventurous drives, hiking trails and dramatic lookouts. We spent 3 nights there which was not enough to see everything this amazing place has to offer. Below are the places we have visited (and we’ll be back in the future to see and experience the rest!).
Us at Branko’s Lookout
Branko’s Lookout
Branko’s Lookout is 10km from El Questro Station. Somewhat moderate to difficult 4WD only track crosses Chamberlain River, which is wide and very rocky. It takes a few minutes just to cross the river itself. Going slow, with the right tyre pressure and gear selection, it is a challenging but actually very fun drive.
The scenery on both sides, as you go through the crossing, is quite beautiful. Branko’s Lookout is the highest lookout on El Questro property. The climb to the summit is steep and the track is narrow (there are pockets to go to, if there is an oncoming traffic).
If the drive to the Lookout is fun, the view from the Lookout is spectacular beyond words. Visiting this place just before sunset is the best. Then you can see sun casting its rays onto the Cockburn Range with the S-curve of the Pentecost River below.
Branko’s Lookout
The river, and Branko’s Lookout in particular, is a popular place to spot salt water crocodiles. Sure enough, we did see a few of them there.
Pigeon Hole Lookout
Pigeon Hole Lookout is 5,5km drive from El Questro station and is less challenging than Branko’s Lookout. There is a small river crossing on the way to the lookout. After that, it is quite an easy drive all the way up, with the steep ascent at the very end of the track.
A small crossing on the way to Pigeon Hole Lookout
The time when the sun goes down is quite magical.
Pigeon Hole Lookout
This is when the sun, just behind the horizon line, casts an array of colours onto the sky, which get reflected on the surface. The colours change rapidly from blue, to orange, to red, pink, making it one of the best times to take scenic photos.
When there are a lot of vehicles driving through the place on a dirt road, the dust stays up in the air for a while. In the dusk it creates a spooky feeling of being in a fairy tale.
Pigeon Hole Lookout drive
Amalia Gorge
Amalia Gorge is a 3,4km return, hiking trail in El Questro. It is one of the less popular gorges, probably, due to the fact that the water is not flowing in dry season.
Amalia Gorge
We found the track challenging due to a couple of rock-climbing places (“squeeze and climb”). One of them has now a chain installed to help you balance. While the other is still pretty much an exercise in aerobics where you have to coordinate where you put your feet and hands. It could be tricky for elderly people or if you are carrying a backpack which tends to pull you backwards 😊. We remembered that trail as a challenge to overcome.
Still we had a very enjoyable experience. The half way pool was pretty and the whole trail was quite picturesque.
Zebedee Springs
Zebedee Springs is a true oasis on the Gibb River Road. Located within El Questro, it is the easiest and shortest hiking trail on their property (only 600m return) to a series of rocky thermal pools. The thermal spring comes from a permanent supply of water deep within the earth. The water temperature is -28-32 degrees C all year round, which makes it a very pleasant and relaxing place to be, whether the weather is hot or cold. What is interesting about the trail itself is that during such a short distance, the vegetation changes from Savannah Woodland forest to Livistona Palms forest.
Zebedee Springs is only open to public from 7am to 12pm. We expected this to a super busy place during the school holidays in July. However, there are a number of rock pools and there might be one empty just for you (or for us, in our experience), especially if you climb higher.
Emma Gorge is one of the most spectacular gorges (and personally, my favourite) on the Gibb River Road. It is a definite “must to see” attraction. It is easily accessible, only 2km off the Gibb River Road, close to Kununurra. Located on El Questro property, permit is required to visit Emma Gorge (like any other attractions within El Questro). The walk to the gorge is classified Grade 4, which is moderate, 3,2km return. It has some big and smaller rocks to scramble, occasional steep climbs but generally a very pleasant hike with beautiful scenery.
There are a few small pools with clear emerald water on the way.
One of the pools on the way to Emma Gorge
One of them is home to a fresh water crocodile that is often seen there.
The end of the hiking trail is the most impressive sight to behold with the waterfall dropping from 65-meter-high rock into a big waterhole, enclosed on three sides by red cliffs. This creates the impression and acoustics of being in an amphitheater. The water is cold but there is a thermal spring on the right side of the gorge. Did we swim? Yes, we did – although it was more like a dip followed by sitting at the hot spring, which was too busy for us to take a picture without other people in it.
Manning Gorge is one of the most beautiful gorges along the Gibb River Road in the Kimberley region of Western Australia. Roughly halfway the Gibb River Road, it is 7km from Mt Barnett Roadhouse. You need to purchase a permit to visit the Gorge (at Mt Barnett Roadhouse). It is included in the cost if you stay at Manning Gorge campground.
At the Manning Gorge campground
Getting to Manning Gorge
Getting to the gorge is a bit tricky and will require probably half a day for a return trip. The most interesting and fascinating thing about this gorge is that you would first need to cross Manning Creek to get to the other side of the trail.
How shall we get across? 🙂
You can either swim 100 meters across (if you don’t mind the cold water and fresh water crocodiles which inhibit the creek 😊). Or you can use the plastic boat, provided by the campground to pull yourself along the ropes to the other side. If you swim, there are plastic drums to put your belongings to get across to the other side.
We decided to use a boat 🙂
The hiking trail is approximately 3km one way. It starts as an easy track but not so clearly marked, so it is easy to get lost. Unlike many other hiking trails that follow the creek, this trail goes overland and has hardly any shade.
It gets more challenging with many steep rocks to climb and steep inclines, which get even harder towards the end. The good thing is that when you get to the swim hole, you are in for a treat with one of the best views on the Gibb River.
Manning Gorge
The waterfall is multi- tiered and the swimming area is very large. It can be tricky to get in, as the edges are slippery and the rocks are quite big.
One thing that we learnt during this hike was to always carry at least some high energy snacks and plenty of drinks. We could have stayed longer at the waterfall, if we had some food with us to feed hungry children. 😊
Adcock Gorge and Galvans Gorge are among the most spectacular gorges along the Gibb River Road.
Adcock Gorge
We travelled the Gibb River Road from west to east (from Derby) and Adcock Gorge was only a short detour on our way. It is one of the lesser known and much quieter gorges on the Gibb River Road but still worth a visit, if you have time. Located on Mt House station property (between turn off to Mornington and Mt Barnett Roadhouse), it is 5km off the Gibb River Road, accessible via a 4WD track. We did manage to pull our caravan but we wouldn’t tow a big caravan there because the track is quite rough.
5km track to Adcock Gorge
We parked just before the creek crossing and decided to walk the remaining part of the track (only 200meters or so). It didn’t look like towing a caravan through the creek with lots of rocks was a good idea. Also, the parking space after you cross the creek is quite small. So you might not have enough space to park or turn around if you tow anything past that creek.
The trail goes along and through the creek, where you can admire lilies and spot some fishes.
It is a relatively short and easy trail ending at the green pool. It is suitable for swimming, although fresh water crocodiles are often seen there. We decided to stay dry until we reach the next gorge (Galvans Gorge). It would have been nice to see the water flowing in Adcock Gorge. Being the dry season in July, it wasn’t the case. With the water flowing there, some people claim it to be the prettiest gorge on the Gibb River Road.
Adcock Gorge
Galvans Gorge
Galvans Gorge is the most accessible gorge on the Gibb River Road. Close to Mt Barnett, it is only 1km off the road. This makes it a great rest stop along the Gibb River Road. The hiking trail follows the path of the creek, is easy and quite pretty with a few boab trees along the way.
Walking towards Galvans Gorge
The short trail ends at the swim hole, fed by a small multi layered waterfall.
Galvans Gorge
A big boab tree on top of the gorge, next to the waterfall makes it look very unique.
Big baob tree at the top of the waterfall at Galvans gorge
Being so easily accessible, Galvans Gorge is, of course, very popular, so I had to wait for a while before I could take a picture like this :).
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