Edel Land and Steep Point

Zuytdorp cliffs at Thunder Bay in Edel Land National Park

Edel Land is a proposed National Park in the Shark Bay region of Western Australia. It is the place where the most westerly point of Australian mainland is located – Steep Point. Useless Loop Road traverses the national park, leading to a number of attractions, which include the salt mine at the entrance, the blowholes on the coast, lookouts and historical sites. The park is also home to impressive 200 meter high Zuytdorp Cliffs. It is a very remote area with no amenities, but quite well visited by 4WD enthusiasts as the corrugation of the track indicates. Camping is allowed at a few places within Edel Land national park. Even though, it is considered “proposed” national park, normal park entry fees apply.

Useless Loop Road

Useless Loop Road is a dirt road (after initial 30 or so km sealed) with an unusual and interesting name! The name Useless Loop was bestowed by a French explorer Louis de Freycinet who couldn’t get to an inviting harbour, believing it was blocked by a sandbar.


Originally a mining road leading to a company town with the same name servicing a salt mine, it is nowadays mostly known as the road to access the most westerly point of Australian mainland. It is quite wide but corrugated track. Stopping every now and again allowed us to appreciate the beauty of this seemingly unattractive track.

Driving further on Useless Loop Road, through Edel Land National Park, we had to stop a few times to access the track conditions. The track goes up and down almost continuously (which at some point caused us a collision with another vehicle that was driving too fast).

And once we nearly drove over the massive drop but luckily stopped just in time. This was at Dicko’s Lookout, which was quite nice.

The last 30km before Steep Point is the most challenging track, as it involves climbing sand dunes up and down. Check our reels about the track if you would like to see how it looks like.

Edel Land National Park attractions

Salt mine

Useless Loop Salt mine is the first attraction in Edel Land National Park and is right at the entrance.

The salt mine looks absolutely amazing from the ground with its surreal colour of the water. It looks even better from above.

Zuytdorp Cliffs

Zuytdorp Cliffs are very spectacular rock formations, rising up to 200 meters and stretching for nearly 200km along the western coast of Australia, between Kalbarri and Steep Point. Their sheer height, as well as almost continuous length is very impressive. The cliffs were named after the Dutch ship, the Zuytdorp, that was wrecked against the base of the cliffs in 18th century.

It is possible to drive along the coastal cliffs. Sometimes (on the western side from False Entrance going north) the track is uncomfortably too close to the 200-meter cliff drop and it makes you feel like you are driving into the ocean 😊.

Blowholes

You can find blowholes in two locations in Edel Land National Park – at False Entrance and in Thunder Bay. Blowholes occur when there are holes in the coastal cliffs. When massive waves hit the coast, the force pushes air and sea mist out through those holes. When the force is strong enough, water comes out too a few meters high and sometimes pieces of debris, like stones, seaweed, etc.

Blowholes at False Entrance

If the sight of the water and air surging out from the ground was impressive, the sound was deafening and scary for kids. Check our short video of blowholes on Tiktok here.

The sighting of a sea turtle was a bonus 😊.  

Blowholes at Thunder Bay were equally impressive.

Camping at Edel Land Natinal Park

Camping at Edel Land National Park is available at 3 locations – False Entrance, Shelter Bay and Steep Point. The sites need to be booked online via ParkstayWA.

False Entrance

Beautiful sunset at False Entrance camp in Edel Land National Park

False Entrance camp is in the south of Edel Land National Park. It is 50km from Steep Point, the most westerly point of Australian mainland. The place got its name after many early seafarers mistook it for the South Passage, the entrance to Shark Bay, between Dirk Hartog Island and Steep Point. There is a camping area with just 5 spots scattered around at False Entrance. We were on site 1, which was quite far away from all other sites. There are no facilities and you would need to bury human waste and take all other rubbish with you. False Entrance is very beautiful but quite rough and windy. The camp is on the beach, tucked behind the dunes.

The beach is very beautiful but with huge waves we couldn’t swim there. Instead, we enjoyed stunning sunsets and sunrises and short walks around, including climbing up and down the dunes.

Steep Point

Family at Steep Point in Edel Land National Park

Steep Point is the most westerly point of Australian mainland and an iconic place. Unfortunately, it was very windy for a drone to fly to take pictures from above when we visited this place. The position of the sun wasn’t helping either in taking a decent selfie. We were there in the afternoon, which is not the best time for photos with that iconic sign, so plan for a morning visit.

Steep Point campground facilities are very basic but there are drop toilets there.

Shelter Bay

A lot of people who go to Dirk Hartog Island, choose to camp at Shelter Bay in Edel Land NP the night before they take the barge, especially if they book the transfer for an early hour. Shelter Bay was beautiful, although, contrary to its name, it was windy. We were at DHI barge site and could see vehicles lining up to catch a barge, even before the sunrise, with the first transfer at 6.30am. Sites at Shelter Bay need to be booked online beforehand. Facilities include a few drop toilets scattered around. It is quite a large campground with plenty of space and right on the beach.

Hamersley inlet and dunes

Hamersley dunes at Fitzgerald River National Park

One of the attractions of Fitzgerald River National Park for 4WD enthusiasts is Hamersley Dunes.

Hamersley dunes

2,5km from Hamersley Inlet campground where we stayed in January, there is a track from Hamersley Drive leading over the dunes and to Hamersley beach. The track is approximately 4,6km long. It’s a fun drive, which is a mix of hard track through the bush, soft sand and some rocks. The track starts as an easy but scratchy drive through the bush until you arrive at the dunes.

There are long poles indicating the way as you drive over the dunes.

Having said that, it is still easy to get lost. We did lose the track for a while and nearly fell into the dip. Luckily, we stopped on top of a hill. It is always better to be cautious, especially if you travel in a single vehicle, like us.

Once you pass the dunes and are nearing the beach, the track gets rocky.

The beach looked “moody” due to stormy weather, so we didn’t stay long. But we thoroughly enjoyed the ride :).

Hamersley Inlet campground

Hamersley Inlet campground in Fitzgerald River National Park

To explore Hamersley dunes and nearby Hamersley Inlet, we stayed at Hamersley Inlet campground. It is one of only a few campgrounds in the Fitzgerald River NP, (others are 4 Mile beach camp and St Mary Inlet campground). Hamersley Inlet campground is 19km west of Hopetoun. It is reasonably priced, at $19 per site per night. You get excellent facilities, which include new and spacious toilets, bbqs with shelter and non-drinking water. There are 14 sites of various sizes, with sites 1-3 suitable for large caravans. The rules of the national park specify no dogs and no campfires. You would need to take all rubbish with you. The sites must be booked online prior to arrival, as there is no internet there.

Hamersley Inlet and walking trail

From the campground, there is a short (300 meter) walk to the Hamersley Inlet, where there are picnic facilities.

From the inlet carpark you can take 1,7km walk to the beach. If you are at the inlet at the right season, you might find these beautiful orange coloured Eucalyptus Utilis (Coastal Moort) trees.

Point Malcolm and Israelite Bay

Israelite Bay is a bucket list trip for many 4WD enthusiasts. It was for us too and last December we ticked it off. Israelite Bay is known for fishing and 4W adventures. It is located nearly 900km east of Perth and is part of Nuytsland Nature Reserve and the Great Australian Bight.

Israelite Bay location on the map of Australia

Point Malcolm

Point Malcolm is 25km west of Israelite Bay, so we decided to visit it first, as it was on the way. We travelled there from Cape Arid National Park via Pasley/Telegraph Track.

Pasley/Telegraph Track

The condition of the track depends on the weather. Generally, we found the track much better than we expected, with not much corrugation.

Starting with soft sand, the majority of the track was hard earth with some soft spots and occasional muddy sections. We were quite lucky to travel in good weather. You wouldn’t want to take those tracks when it rains or immediately after, as the track or parts of it become washed out.  

Point Malcolm camp and beach

When you arrive at Point Malcolm you will see a sign indicating a camping area. It is very basic with limited spaces and no facilities at all, so it is important to be self-sufficient.

The actual Point Malcolm is 1km or so further away through the sand dunes. There is a soft sand track that leads there through a steep hill.

We preferred to walk on the beach, which was long, sandy and quite nice with colourful coastal dune plants.

Despite strong easterly winds in late December, we enjoyed our 1-night stay at Point Malcolm. The trip to actual Point Malcolm (not just a campground) is a must, whether you drive or walk there, or you won’t appreciate this place. We were impressed with eroded rock formations, some of which looked out worldly. There were plenty of colourful crabs hiding in rock pools and many water birds above.

Israelite Bay

From Point Malcolm it took us roughly 2 hours to get to Israelite Bay (33km long trip). We saw some washouts (luckily, most of them had alternative tracks to drive around).

There were also a few clay pans and salty lakes along the way. If you are not observant enough and lose track, especially if you drive after the rain, you might be in trouble. So, we took it easy and slow, to be on a safe side.

Israelite Bay Telegraph Station Ruines

Israelite Bay holds a lot of historical value. It is mostly known for ruins of the old telegraphic station, dating back to 19 century. The visit to the ruins is a must and they are quite interesting to see. It felt a bit spooky to walk inside the ruins (our older son saw a snake there too), especially when the weather was so gloomy. Unfortunately, there was no information sign or board about the history of the place there.

Israelite Bay beach and old jetty

Apart from the Telegraph Station Ruines, there is also an old jetty and the graves of former post masters which are worth having a look at at Israelite Bay. The beach itself isn’t particularly nice. It is very weedy, up to half a meter high of seaweed on the beach and at places no sand visible at all.

Pink lake

But the nearby pink lake with salt crystals is quite picturesque.

There are plenty of camping spots around, however we chose not to camp at Israelite Bay and headed back to Cape Arid.

Aerial view of Israelite Bay camping area and pink lake

Fisheries Track

On the way back (from Israelite Bay to Cape Arid) we choose the other route and travelled via Fisheries Track. We were told by the ranger that Fisheries Track was in a worse condition than Telegraph Track. We didn’t find this was the case and guessed that it depends on the weather conditions on the day and prior your travel. We found it in much better condition than we expected. It often gets closed when it rains and it was closed just a day or two before we travelled due to bush fires. The wind was strong and it blew the sand over normally heavily corrugated track, so it was quite a pleasant drive most of the track.

For the nature lovers

Nature enthusiasts will find plenty of interesting objects both at Point Malcolm and Israelite Bay. Varanus rosenbergi (below) is very common both in Cape Arid and Nuytsland nature reserve and we saw a few of them.

Birdlife is also abundant there. Below – Pied Oystercatcher (left), Caspian Tern (right).

The wildflowers will delight the eyes of anyone who has the ability to notice them. Below are just a few of them (Boronia spathulata – left, Gompholobium confertum – middle, Jacksonia capitata – right).

And this is us, with the iconic sign of Telegraph Track.

Len Howard Conservation Park

Boardwalk along the shore of Peel Inlet at Len Howard Conservation Park.

Len Howard Conservation Park on the shores of Peel Inlet in Mandurah is a great place for bush walking and bird watching.

There is a 2km loop easy walk trail, which can be extended further and done as a 6 km return trail. It goes through the bush and wetlands along the inlet. A few benches are along the way to sit down and rest, while appreciating nature. The park is part of Peel-Yalgorup Wetlands, that support quite a number of water birds, as well as migratory birds.

Australian Pied Oystercatchers were the highlights for me during this walk. Apparently, they feed on worms too, not just oysters!

Toilets and picnic facilities are available at this location and you can take your dog on a leash for a walk.

Len Howard Conservation Park is located in Mandurah, 1 hour drive from Perth. It can be included as part of your day trip to Mandurah. Alternatively, it is a short drive from Herron Point campground, if you like nature based camping.

Myalup beach

Aerial view of Myalup Beach

Myalup beach is one of the 4WD beaches along the 60km stretch (between Tims Thicket to the north and Binningup to the south). It is a beautiful beach with soft white sand and spectacular colours of the ocean.

The sand dunes separate the ocean and Lake Preston running parallel to the coast for many kms. From the bird’s eye view, this looks quite amazing. The access to Myalup beach is very easy, right from the carpark.

Lake Preston near Myalup beach

Lake Preston, just north of Myalup, is an usual lake. Stretching for 30 km, it is the longest lake in Yalgorup National Park. It is also the closest to the coast. The lake is shallow and very saline, providing favourable conditions for salt-loving halobacteria to flourish which makes the water turn pink. Looks amazing from above!

Herron Point

Sunset at Herron Point campground

Herron Point campground is a basic nature-based campground on the shore of Harvey Estuary in the Peel region, only an hour drive from Perth. It is a prime spot to go crabbing, enjoy wildlife, photography or just relaxing. Being so close to Perth and easily accessible, it is a very popular place.

Facilities and costs

Facilities are very good and include flushing toilets, bins and non-drinking water. The only inconvenience we found was related to the layout of the campground and the actual sites. Caravan sites are literally next to each other, with no privacy at all. So, we booked a tent site, which had more privacy, better views (sites A to D) and some shade.

The issue with the sites is the barrier that separates the actual site from the parking lot. As we rely on our vehicle for all our cooking and kitchen needs, we needed it close to the tents. It took a few maneuvers every time to park as close to the barrier as possible and we did plenty of exercise jumping over the barriers every time we needed to go from one side of the vehicle to the other (maybe, hundred times a day? 😊).

Apart from that, it is a nice campground with a caretaker on site, who looks after the campground. The price is also very reasonable, being $20 per site per night, for up to 4 adults and 4 children on each site. And you can bring your dog there too. Being so easily accessible, it goes without saying, that it is a very popular place, especially during the holidays and the crab season. We stayed there over Australia Day long weekend and saw hundreds of people (campers and day users alike) go blue swimmer crabbing. The campground is managed by the Shire of Murray and must be booked online in advance.

Crabbing is popular day and night

Shallow waters of Harvey Estuary are ideal for catching blue swimmer crabs. And they are in abandunce there! Despite the number of people crabbing day and night there, there is still enough (but make sure, you know the rules!)

Photographer’s paradise

“Photography is about discipline”, Brian said, and I dragged myself out of the swag at 5.30am and didn’t regret. Scenes like these ones feed my soul and nourish me. Early morning is the time when nature awakens and is full of energy. It is the time to connect with it, so that it can fuel you for the rest of the day.

Sunrise at Herron Point

Herron Point is a popular place with photographers. It is no surprise – sunsets and sunrises are amazing there! All you need to do is to be there at the right time :).

Sunset at Herron Point

Having a go at astrophotography with just a phone, while trying to photograph a windmill (the icon of Australian outback):

Abundance of wildlife

Flocks of pelicans, seagulls, egrets, cormorants, terns and are putting quite a show every morning as they fly over Harvey Estuary.

Off the shore you can see Carnaby’s black cockatoos, Splendid Fairy-wrens and Common Bronzewing among others.

Welcome Swallows are very quick when they fly but sometimes they do sit and pose nicely :).

If you are lucky, you can spot a Bandicoot. We were lucky :).

Bandicoot

To sum up

There are so many good things about Herron Point. Although, we prefer much quieter and more remote places, as a quick getaway from home, Herron Point is a good choice. And if you are into crabbing, or photography, this place is definitely worth visiting.

Munglinup Beach

Munglinup Beach 4WD access aerial view

Munglinup Beach is a beautiful beach, 130km west of Esperance in Western Australia. With its white squeky sand and crystal clear waters, it is tempting to want to camp right on the beach, but to protect this pristine environment, camping is allowed only in designated areas. We stayed at Munglinup Beach campground and found it quite good.

Munglinup Beach campground

Aerial view of Munglinup Beach campground

Munglinup Beach campsite is a bush campsite, managed by the Shire of Esperance. The campground has 14 sites of various sizes. There is a direct access to the beach, which is quite beautiful and calm. The outer reef, a few meters from the beach, creates a natural lagoon, making it a safe place for swimming, kayaking and fishing.

Facilities at the campground include 3 clean drop toilets, bins and non-drinking water. The cost is $15 per site per night. The sites operate on a first come, first served basis (the staff from the nearby Munglinup Caravan park come around 5pm to collect fees). Munglinup Beach campsite is quite popular and arriving early during peak season is best to avoid disappointment. We were lucky to get the last empty ( #1) site on Boxing Day (probably because it was too small and only enough to fit a vehicle and one tent).

Munglinup beach campsite

So, what’s the best thing (apart from it being affordable) about the campground? Undoubtedly, it was the white sandy slope on the left just opposite the entrance to the campground. Kids enjoyed going up and down, sliding, running or crawling on it. Adults climbed there to take pictures, greet the rising sun, gain internet transmission of simply to get fit 😊.

Dogs and cats are allowed on lead, within the camping area. Access to the campsite is via Munglinup Beach road, which is a gravel road, suitable for a 2WD.

Lake Shaster Nature reserve

There are plenty of things to do and see, apart from swimming or fishing at Munglinup Beach. Lake Shaster nature reserve occupies a large area either side of Munglinup Beach. The access to the reserve is 1km from the campground (we visited the eastern part). It is 4WD only. The tracks are soft sand and easy to navigate with some rocky sections closer to the beach.

Lake Shaster reserve is a great place to see wildflowers, including orchids, in season, spot rare birds and enjoy beautiful and secluded beaches.

Brown Honeyeater (above left), Splended Fairy-wren (above middle), Carnaby’s black cockatoo (above right).

We visited one of those beaches and had a ‘bumpy’ encounter with a friendly kangaroo on the way there (luckily, we didn’t drive fast!). Watch the reel here!

The beach delighted us with interesting finds, including shells, rocks and crabs.

It is a really beautiful beach that you can spend the whole day exploring.

Oldflied Estuary

Oldflied Estuary is another great place to visit and explore while you are at Munglinup beach. In fact, Lake Shaster nature reserve surrounds the estuary on both sides. The access to the estuary is just minutes from Munlinup Beach. It is another 4WD track with soft sand and overgrown shrubs. The track gets even softer closer to the beach.  While it is possible to drive on the sandbar separating the beach and the inlet, it is wise to check the terrain first. We did get bogged and so did another vehicle that tried to go to the beach. Reducing tyres down to 14psi and using max tracks did the trick.

Vehicle got bogged at Oldfield Estuary near Munglinup Beach, west of Esperance.

We had a nice time at the estuary – picnic behind the dunes, followed by exploration of the beach on foot. There are no facilities in that place, subsequently, it is important not to leave any trace to keep the place pristine.

It is worth mentioning that the Oldfield Estuary is a heaven for water birds and it is a pleasure to watch them.

Without a doubt, Oldflied Estuary is an awesome place to visit and spend some time, despite that you can’t bring your dog or camp there.  

Bremer Bay

Attractions in Bremer Bay

Bremer Bay is a small fishing town on the coast between Albany and Esperance in the Great Southern region of Western Australia. It is located approximately 580km east of Perth. For us, Bremer Bay is all about some of the most beautiful beaches in Western Australia, many of which are 4WD accessible. There are so many beaches to the east and west of Bremer Bay. We have explored only some of them.

Bremer Bay is also a gateway to beautiful, biologically diverse Fitzgerald River NP. Many beautiful wildflowers can be found around Bremer Bay. It is also a hot spot for watching whales between July and September. We have only been to Bremer during summer months and have not seen any whales or a variety of wildflowers. There are going to be many more trips to this beautiful area during colder months in the future.

Beaches close to Bremer Bay

Blossoms Beach

Blossoms Beach is one of the nicest but also one of the most popular beaches in Bremer Bay. You can assess this beach by a normal 2WD or drive a bit further for a 4WD access all the way to the beach. There is just a small section of soft sand but otherwise, it is an easy and short 4WD track to the beach.

The beach itself is quite wide and long enough for find your own spot, with squeaky white sand, turquoise waters and beautiful waves. It is one of the best swimming beaches, popular with families. Beginner surfers will find a good wave there. The place is equally nice for just relaxing.

Little Boat Harbour

Little Boat Harbour Beach is a short beach (only 100 meters long), that is well protected from the winds. It is great for swimming and is also used for launching small boats. The beach is 2WD accessible but has a steep descent and tight turn around area, so not suitable for caravans. However, 4WDs can drive onto the beach.

Point Henry

Point Henry is a beautiful lookout. It is a short 4WD track, which is relatively easy. You will find some overgrown shrubs and also a few rocky areas along the way. The track splits half way, leading to 2 lookout areas.

The track on the left leads to a more spectacular lookout. It ends with a small turn around area (enough to park 2 vehicles only) and from there you just walk downhill for about 50 or so meters (wouldn’t recommend driving those last few meters as it is quite steep).

The cliffs and rock formations are amazing to watch, as well as the breaking waves.

The track on the right from the fork becomes quite steep and very soft closer to the end, so we chose not to drive all the way but walked instead.

Both points do not have beach access but quite beautiful and worth exploring.

Beaches further away

Reef Beach – where sand dunes meet the ocean

Reef Beach is one of the most spectacular beaches around Bremer Bay – this is the place where you see massive sand dunes backing into the ocean. The access is 4WD only. The beach, in fact, can be accessed from two different tracks, either side of the dune area. We used Reef Beach track, which is roughly 35km west from Bremer Bay, or 15km east from Millers Point Road. The Reef Beach track entry is just opposite “Rest area 1km” sign on Borden–Bremer Bay Road. The track is 9 km long and is of moderate difficulty. It starts as an easy dirt road up to the sign where it is advisable to stop to reduce your tyre pressure. Then it alternates between soft sand and rocky area, with some overgrown sections, with the last section near beach being the most challenging.

Reef beach is simply amazing with those massive sand dunes extending inland for nearly 5km and stretching along the coast for a few kms. The beach is quite long – over 8km long – and wide. It is fun to drive on.

The combination of huge white sand dunes, crystal clear blue water with big waves is fascinating.

There is also a free camping area behind the dunes. There are no facilities, so it is important to leave the place clean and pristine so that we all can still enjoy it in the future.

Millers Point bush camp

Where is Millers Point bush camp?

Millers Point bush camp ground turned out to be much better than we expected. Located on the shore of Beaufort Inlet, it is easily accessable, being only 6km dirt road from Borden-Bremer Road, 50km west of Bremer Bay in the Great Southen region of Western Australia.

Not just overnight stop

Millers Point bush camp can be used as a base to explore all the beautiful beaches around Bremer Bay, or you can stay at the camp, relaxing and enjoying the nature. The inlet is beautiful.

There are many birds to watch there, both on shore and in the trees and bushes.

Above: Silvereye (top left), Blue Wren male (top middle), Blue Wren female (top right), Galah (bottom left), Welcome Swallows (bottom right).

There are easy bush walks around and 4WD tracks nearby to test your limits. One of the attractions at Millers Point camp is Crocodile Rock, which is part of 1,5km walk to the lookout. It is particularly impressive at sunrise. I took this picture just before 5am. Things that you do when you want to take good photos :).

You can also go fishing and kayaking at the inlet.

Small boat on the shore of Beaufort Inlet at Millers Point campground

The beauty of camping at the inlet is that you don’t need to walk far to enjoy sunset. This was pretty much the view from our camping spot at Millers Point bush camp.

Cost and facilities

The campground has basic facilities, like renovated toilet (well-stocked with toilet paper) and bins. The cost is $10 per night per person (no charge for kids), which is only half of what we would have paid staying at the national park with the same facilities for a family of 4. Friendly on-site care-taker Frank collects the money and looks after the place quite well. The camp area is quite big, with no defined spots, so you are almost guaranteed to have one, even when arriving late.

Dogs and campfires (in season) are allowed.

In conclusion

We spent wonderful 3 nights at Millers Point over the Xmas period, enjoying the place and the company of friendly neighbors (Liz and Hank). It is one of those places that we would like to visit again.

Tims Thicket beach

Tims Thicket Beach location and access

Tims Thicket beach is well known among 4WD enthusiasts. It is the closest to Perth 4WD beach, in the south. The drive from Perth is just over an hour south, past Mandurah. Tims Thicket beach is also easily accessible. The 4WD access track is only about 1km or so and is relatively easy.

Beach and activities

The beach itself is quite pleasant and long enough for a nice drive (2km long). Some parts are rocky and add beauty to the landscape.

Other parts are sandy and are great for young families. The winds can be strong there but it still makes it a nice beach, if you like outdoors and appreciate nature.

There is no shortage of birds – both on shore and up in the air.

Above: Caspian Tern (top left), Caspian Tern and Pied Cormorants in flight (top middle), bird of prey, potentially of one the Kites (top right), Pied Cormorants (bottom).

Facilities

There are no facilities, although there is a rubbish bin and the sign at the beginning of the track, where everyone stops to deflate and inflate tyres. From that point there is also a pedestrian beach access going uphill over the steps. Overall, Tims Thicket beach is a nice introduction to a novice 4WD enthusiast and it also makes it an enjoyable day trip for anyone who is into beach driving, fishing or exploring new places.