Author: Anna Lakshmi

We are a family of four and are nuts about traveling. Our name reflects this! We love sharing the joy and love of traveling and adventure! Let's the fun begin!

Gawler Ranges National Park

Organ Pipes at the Gawler Ranges National Park

Gawler Ranges National Park in South Australia is best known for its dramatic Organ Pipes—towering rhyolite rock formations sculpted by volcanic eruptions over 1.5 billion years ago. These ancient pillars were the reason we chose to camp in the park, even in the depths of winter.

We visited in July, a quiet and rain-soaked time of year. After entering the park from the east, we travelled westward, passing several empty campgrounds before arriving at Yandinga, where we had booked two nights. Along the way, we saw only one other vehicle, likely on its way out. It felt as though we had the entire park to ourselves.

Gawler Ranges NP

The solitude was both peaceful and eerie. With heavy rain and grey skies, we spent our time watching puddles form around our caravan, chatting with the resident grey butcherbirds, and checking the weather forecast more often than usual. Despite the conditions, we stayed—drawn by the quiet and the promise of ancient landscapes.

Camping in Gawler Ranges is very affordable compared to Western Australia: just $22 per family per night, with park entry fees waived for campers. Facilities are basic (toilet only), campfires are permitted, and dogs are not allowed.

The Organ Pipes—Almost

Our main goal was to see the Organ Pipes, but the 4WD track leading there was flooded and impassable. With no one else around, we didn’t want to risk getting stuck.

Fortunately, we discovered smaller but similar rock formations just 1 km from our campground. We managed two short walks to Yandinga Falls before the rain returned.

Beyond the Organ Pipes: Exploring Gawler Ranges National Park

While the Organ Pipes are the park’s most iconic feature, Gawler Ranges National Park offers other fascinating glimpses into the region’s pastoral history.

Shearer’s Quarters and Shed

These historic buildings are dotted with information boards that share stories of the area’s shearing past. It’s a quiet, evocative stop that brings the outback’s working heritage to life.

Old Paney Homestead

Step into the past at this beautifully preserved homestead, now functioning like a walk-in museum. Visitors are free to explore the rooms and read the displays, which transport you back to the early days of settlement in the region.

Old Paney Homestead at Gawler Ranges NP

Together, these sites offer a deeper connection to the land—not just its geological wonders, but the human stories etched into its history.

Wildlife Encounters in Gawler Ranges National Park

One of the joys of visiting Gawler Ranges National Park is the abundance of wildlife. Kangaroos are everywhere—so much so that driving requires extra caution. More than once, they bounded across the track right in front of our bonnet. Thankfully, we kept our speed low and avoided any close calls. Raptors were soaring high up in the sky. They too kept their distance, making it challenging to take a proper photo.

At Yandinga campground, the resident grey butcherbirds became our companions. Friendly and curious, they entertained us throughout our stay.

Grey butcherbird at Gawler Ranges NP

On the way to the Organ Pipes, we came across a herd of emus. Our kids, with their playful imagination, nicknamed them “negative knees”—a reference to the way emus’ knees bend backwards compared to ours. It was one of those delightful family moments that made the trip even more memorable.

Emu at Gawler Ranges NP

Getting There

We entered the park from the north via Lake Gairdner National Park, following a dirt road in reasonable condition for the outback—though it becomes muddy when wet. After exploring the park, we exited in the south, rejoining the Eyre Highway at Minnipa.

Lake Gairdner

Lake Gairdner

From Coober Pedy in South Australia, we chose a shorter yet more challenging route back to Western Australia, passing through Lake Gairdner—a destination we were eager to explore. Lake Gairdner National Park lies north of the Gawler Ranges, in a truly remote corner of the outback. The unsealed gravel and sandy tracks wind through private properties, and during our journey in July we encountered only a couple of vehicles, likely belonging to local farmers.

A vehicle with a van travelling through Lake Gairdner NP

Remoteness doesn’t intimidate us; in fact, it draws us in. We love places where silence reigns, where we can pause at will to absorb the sounds—or the absence of them—and feel deeply connected to nature.

The landscape enchanted us: red sand hills crowned with spinifex, kangaroos bouncing across the horizon. Even as the sky shifted from bright blue to darker tones, we appreciated the scenery. Each moment felt precious, and we savoured it fully.

The park’s main feature is Lake Gairdner, Australia’s third-largest salt lake. Other lakes include Lake Everard and Lake Harris, and they are all difficult to access. Our drone became our closest companion here, capturing breathtaking views and bringing back images that revealed the stark beauty of this isolated landscape.

Lake Everard in Lake Gairdner NP

Lake Everard (above)

Camping at Lake Gairdner NP

While travelling through Lake Gairdner National Park, we planned to stay at the free Waltumba Tank campground. However, as night fell, we couldn’t find any signs of the site after a long day on the road. Instead, we stopped at a clearing just off the track.

By morning, we realised we were not far from Lake Gairdner itself.  Rising early, we caught the sunrise – that perfect hour when the world is hushed, and the day stretches ahead with promise.

The lake shimmered in the first light, its silver surface framed by the deep red earth and the vast outback horizon. The place where we had camped seemed transformed, serene and timeless.

Pondanna Ruins

As it turned out, we camped near Pondanna Ruins—historic structures in the Gawler Ranges of South Australia, close to the southern edge of Lake Gairdner. The site preserves the foundations of an 1880s shearing shed, cookhouse, and workers’ quarters.

It was fascinating to see the ruins, especially at sunrise, when the light revealed striking orange tones across the stonework. Looking down into a pit several metres deep was unsettling, with the thought lingering that escape would be impossible if someone were to fall in by accident.

Pondanna Ruins in Lake Gairdner NP

Astrophotography at Lake Gairdner

The night we spent at Lake Gairdner National Park was truly magical. The sky was perfectly clear, moonless, and alive with countless stars. The Milky Way rose like a luminous river, stretching upward into infinity.

I set out toward the Pondanna ruins to take some photos, beginning with astrophotography near a lone tree halfway along the path. The silence of the night made me hesitant to continue alone, so I returned to camp and asked our older son, Ariel, to join me. Together we ventured to the ruins, sharing a special mother–son moment under the vast sky.

Pondanna ruins at Lake Gairdner NP at night

We were lucky enough to witness a shooting star that lingered for several seconds, a breathtaking sight. By then my camera was already packed away, but I didn’t mind—the astro shots I captured of the ruins, and the memory of that night, are treasures in themselves.

Old and modern way of travelling at Lake Gairdner

After leaving our camp at Lake Gairdner, we made our way toward the Gawler Ranges. Along the road, we came across a weathered wooden wagon and stopped to take a closer look. Standing before it, we were reminded of how different—and far more challenging—travel must have been in the past compared to the comfort and convenience we enjoy today.

Wagon at Lake Gairdner NP

In conclusion

There is no entry fee to Lake Gairdner NP. It is a remote area, with no facilities. We found the dirt road generally in a good condition. However, it might be impassable when it is wet.

Coober Pedy – Australia’s Most Unusual Town

Entry to Coober Pedy

Coober Pedy is the most unusual town in Australia. Its defining feature is that many of the houses are underground, making it one of the most unique communities in the world.

Coober Pedy

The town is also renowned as the Opal Capital of the World, where some of the largest and most spectacular opals continue to be mined in great quantities. As you approach Coober Pedy, the landscape itself tells the story: scattered machinery, especially blowers, and countless small hills formed by mining operations create a distinctive, almost otherworldly scene.

Opal hunting—known locally as noodling—remains a popular pastime. While once a serious pursuit, today it is largely a tourist attraction and a source of fun, especially for children. The opals found here vary enormously in shape, size, quality, and price, adding to the fascination.

Although Coober Pedy might not be beautiful in the traditional sense, it more than compensates with its attractions. The town has become a thriving tourist destination, with museums, galleries, and shops showcasing its mining heritage. In fact, nearly every second building is dedicated to opals in some form.

The name itself reflects its unusual character: Coober Pedy translates to “White Man in a Hole.”

Riba’s Campground – Coober Pedy’s only underground campsite

During our stay in Coober Pedy this July, we chose Riba’s campground—the town’s only underground campsite—for a unique experience. Pulling a caravan, however, made underground camping impractical. The subterranean area is designed for tents, which must be carried inside along with all belongings. Since our kitchen is attached to the vehicle, we had to cook and eat outside regardless.

Riba's Campground - Coober Pedy's only underground campsite

Fortunately, Riba’s also offers above-ground sites, which turned out to be more affordable. Still, we couldn’t resist peeking into the underground section. Had we been traveling with tents, we would have seriously considered it—the constant, comfortable temperature below ground is a welcome contrast to the chilly winter nights outside.

The campground host also runs mining tours, which are are informative but not particularly engaging for young children. While our boys are older, our younger son is very energetic and would have quickly grown restless without something hands-on. Luckily, Coober Pedy offers plenty of other tours to keep families entertained.

Tom’s Opal Mine Tour – A Coober Pedy Highlight

To keep the kids entertained while learning something practical about opal mining, we booked Tom’s Opal Mine Tour in Coober Pedy. It did not disappoint. The tour was engaging and informative, with plenty of detail about mining techniques and noodling. While the children had to be patient during the explanations, their excitement grew once they had a chance to try things for themselves.

They had the chance to search for opals and then trade their finds back to the mine’s owner. The exchange was sweets or pocket money—a highlight for our younger son. Another hands-on moment came during a live demonstration. The kids helped shovel sand into the Blower, giving them a taste of the physical side of mining.

A delightful surprise awaited us at the end: complimentary tea served with scones, jam, and cream at the café. The hospitality extended to catering for allergies and dietary requirements, which was especially appreciated by our family.

Old Timers Mine Museum

Another highlight of our stay in Coober Pedy was visiting the Old Timers Mine Museum, a hand-dug opal mine dating back to 1916 that has been carefully preserved as a museum.

Old Timers Mine Museum at Coober Pedy

Visitors can embark on a self-guided underground tour, moving at their own pace through the authentic tunnels and chambers. Along the way, you’ll see natural seams of opal embedded in the rock and gain fascinating insights into both the mining process and the daily lives of the miners who once worked here.

The experience is not only educational but also genuinely fun, offering a rare chance to step back in time and feel the atmosphere of an early opal mine. And of course, the visit wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the gift shop, where opals and souvenirs are available for purchase.

Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park – out of this world experience

Kanku-Breakaways near Coober Pedy

Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park lies just 35 km from Coober Pedy and is celebrated for its striking landscapes and rich geological heritage. With its surreal scenery, the park feels like a world apart—so much so that it has served as the backdrop for several films.

The most magical time to visit is at sunset, when the shifting light paints the hills in breathtaking colours.

A family at Kanku-Breakaways near Coober Pedy

Please note: entry permits and fees apply, and bookings must be made online in advance.

We stayed even when the sun went down, waiting for the sky to illuminate with stars and Milky Way.

Kanku-Breakaways near Coober Pedy at night

Coober Pedy, located in South Australia, lies roughly halfway between Alice Springs and Adelaide along the Stuart Highway. Set within a hot, arid desert, the town’s extreme climate explains why so many residents choose to live in underground homes.

Peak Charles National Park

Peak Charles National Park

Peak Charles National Park is a remote national park in Western Australia, 170 km north west of Esperance.

Getting there

Road to Peak Charles National Park

We visited Peak Charles National Park at the very end of September 2025, travelling from Norseman via Lake King–Norseman Road and then Peak Charles Road. Both are classified as 4WD-only, with corrugations, potholes, and sections that become impassable when wet. Still, for a 4WD track, the drive wasn’t too challenging.

Peak Charles campground

Aerial view of Peak Charles campground

At the base of Peak Charles, we camped for two nights in a small but welcoming campground. Facilities include toilets, picnic tables, and communal fire rings. With space for only 7–8 vehicles, the sites are compact and not suitable for large caravans.

Currently, the campground is free and non-bookable, though this may change once the access road is sealed. It can fill quickly on long weekends, but we were fortunate to find a spot on arrival.

A vehicle with a small caravan at Peak Charles campground

Climbing Peak Charles

Climbing Peak Charles was at the top of our agenda when we camped at the base of this striking 651‑metre granite outcrop. The hiking trail is divided into three sections: easy, moderately difficult, and extremely hard.

We began with the easy section, where half of our group decided to stop. My older son, 13‑year‑old Ariel, and I pressed on to the lookout. This part of the trail was steep and demanding, but manageable. The final ascent to the summit, however, defies classification. It is a sheer, exposed incline that requires crab‑like crawling on hands and feet.

At that point, I chose not to continue. Ariel, determined and fearless, insisted on reaching the summit alone. I watched anxiously as he disappeared behind the rock face. Moments later, his voice rang out—he had made it to the top. Pride and relief washed over me as I waited for him to descend safely. What an achievement for our boy! Here is a short reel featuring this moment.

The track to the summit measures 3.4 km, and the round trip took us more than four hours. For those with rock climbing experience and a taste for adventure, Peak Charles offers a truly rewarding challenge.

Peak Charles NP wildflowers

Common Mignonette Orchid Microtis

Calothamnus tuberosus (above left), Calytrix leschenaultii (above middle), Common Mignonette Orchid Microtis (above right).

Desert quandong Santalum acuminatum

Desert quandong Santalum acuminatum (above left), Dodonaea microzyga (above middle), Labichea species (above right).

Melaleuca species (above left), Nicotiana goodspeedii (above middle), Prostanthera serpyllifolia (above right).

Sigmoid spider (Caladenia sigmoidea)

Sigmoid spider (Caladenia sigmoidea) – above.

Track from Peak Charles to Lake King

Leaving Peak Charles National Park for Perth, we had several route options. Since we had already travelled the Hyden–Norseman Road, we didn’t want to repeat it. Heading down to Esperance would have added a long detour. Instead, we chose the shortest and least familiar option: the Lake King–Norseman Road.

Information about this road was scarce. When I contacted the local shires, the response was clear: the road is not maintained, not monitored, and towing is not advised. Despite this, we decided to take the risk after speaking with fellow campers at Peak Charles who had just driven it and reassured us it was passable.

To reach the Lake King–Norseman Road, we took a shortcut via a couple of 4WD tracks. These were narrow and dotted with potholes, but generally manageable. The most challenging section was where the track crossed what looked like a dry creek, leaving behind a deep washout. We had to take our time, work together, and carefully navigate our way through. Fortunately, our caravan is small and nimble—larger rigs would struggle here and likely wouldn’t make it.

Check out our short reel on this track.

And that’s us half way up Peak Charles.

Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail (Hyden-Norseman Road)

The Breakaways along the Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail

Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail is a 300km unsealed road that links Hyden and Norseman. It features 16 interpretive sites with walking trails, picnic and camping areas. As you drive along this scenic route, you will see how the scenery changes from section to section – from low heath, to shrubs, to eucalyptus woodlands.

Starting at Hyden

Our journey began in Hyden, where a visit to the iconic Wave Rock felt like a rite of passage. Though we’d been before, it was the first time for our children. It was a moment of shared wonder beneath the ancient wave-shaped granite.

Holland Track Intersection

Our first stop along the Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail was the Holland Track intersection.

Holland Track intersection along the Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail.

Originally, we’d planned to drive the Holland Track itself, but towing a caravan—even a small off-road one—proved impractical. The entry looked deceptively smooth, but we knew the track beyond was riddled with deep washouts. Instead, we lingered at the interpretive sign, absorbing the history and admiring the wildflowers. What a delicate bursts of colour against the rugged terrain.

Comesperma scoparium Broom Milkwort (above left), Grevillea coccinea (above middle), Stylidium breviscapum Boomerang Triggerplant (above right).

Forrestania Plots

With daylight fading, we made camp at Forrestania Plots—a free, no-facilities campground nestled in the bush.

Forrestania Plots along the Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail.

It’s a simple, cleared area, but the surrounding flora made it quietly beautiful.

Balaustion pulcherrimum Native Pomegranate (above left), Calytrix leschenaultii (above middle), Cyanostegia Tinsel Flower (above right).

Grevillea excelsior (Flame Grevillea) stood tall and radiant (below left). Striking Hakea francisiana (Emu Tree) was also fascinating to see (below right).

We watched the sun dip below the horizon, its golden light filtering through the foliage, then gathered around a campfire under the stars.

The Breakaways

Perhaps the most picturesque stop along the trail, The Breakaways offered a sense of peace and timelessness. The rock formations here are captivating—layered with colour, texture, and quiet mystery. We wandered for hours, tracing the contours of the land and soaking in its stillness.

The site is well-equipped, with a spacious picnic and camping area, tables, fire rings, and a toilet. Though tempted to stay, we chose to continue our journey, carrying the calm of The Breakaways with us.

The Breakaways site along the Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail.

Eucalyptus vittata (ribbon mallet) is a unique eucalyptus tree that sheds its bark in long ribbons that sway gracefully in the wind, composing a soothing bush melody.  

McDermid Rock

Our second stop along the Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail (Hyden–Norseman Road) was McDermid Rock, site #9 on the trail. This striking granite outcrop is a wonderful place to pause—whether for a wander, a picnic, or an overnight stay.

McDermid Rock along the Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail

The site is well-equipped with a toilet, picnic tables, and fire rings, making it both scenic and practical.

You can climb McDermid Rock and explore the surrounding area via a 1,271-meter interpretive trail. The walk begins with a steep ascent but soon levels out into an easy and enjoyable loop, dotted with informative signs that highlight the area’s natural and cultural history.

We camped there during the September school holidays, and while it was a popular spot, we arrived early enough to secure a great site. We loved our time at McDermid Rock—scrambling over the granite, soaking in the views, and gathering around a campfire under the stars.

Lake Johnston

Lake Johnston is site #10 on the Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail. It is a striking salt lake.

Lake Johnston along the Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail

This tranquil spot offers a small but welcoming area for picnicking or camping, complete with a toilet and picnic table. It’s an ideal place to pause, take in the expansive views, and enjoy the serenity of the landscape.

Disappointment Rock

Our journey along the Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail concluded at Disappointment Rock. Though there are no facilities here, the area features a scenic 1.9-kilometre hiking trail that traverses the rock and includes 17 interpretive signs offering insights into the local geology and ecology.

Disappointment Rock along the Granite and Woodlands Discovery Trail

We didn’t have time to complete the full walk, as my main focus was spotting an open granite sun orchid (Thelymitra petrophila). After encountering many closed blooms, it was a true delight to find one fully open—thanks to the keen eyes of my youngest son.

Along the way, we also spotted a few lemon-scented sun orchids (Thelymitra antennifera) and were treated to the sight of numerous Ornate Crevice-Dragon lizards basking in the sun.

Ornate Crevice-Dragon lizards were abundant at Disappointment Rock (below).

The Jam Patch

Campers at the Jam Patch

The Jam Patch is a large bushland reserve in North Lake Grace in the southern Wheatbelt, named for its many Jam Trees (Acacia acuminata). This protected area is a haven for native flora and fauna, lovingly cared for by volunteers from the Lake Grace Land Conservation District Committee.

Picnic and free camping area

Near the entrance, there’s a designated camping area for caravans. It’s simple and free, with no facilities apart from toilets—which, unfortunately, were unusable during our visit in early October 2025 due to lack of maintenance. Further into the reserve, the picnic area offers tables and barbecues. While it’s unclear whether camping is officially permitted there, we did see a few people sleeping in swags.
The camping area itself is modest in size and was fairly busy, but we managed to find a spot. Despite the limited amenities, it’s a peaceful place to spend a night or two, surrounded by bushland and birdsong.

Map of the Jam Patch

Bush walks and wildflowers at the Jam Patch

The Jam Patch features several walking trails with interpretive signs. Two trails loop around flat granite outcrops, while a third traces the edge of a salt lake. These walks offer quiet immersion in nature and glimpses of wildflowers along the way.


Although we arrived a little late for peak bloom—donkeys and cowslips had already finished flowering—we were still treated to the delicate beauty of lemon-scented sun orchids, little laughing orchids, and granite sun orchid.

Lemon Scented Sun Orchid Thelymitra antennifera at the Jam Patch

Even with fewer flowers, the walks were serene and restorative, offering solitude and a deep sense of connection to the land.

Pelargonium havlasae (top left), Brunonia australis (top right).

Talgomine Reserve

Talgomine Reserve is a large picturesque area around the rock, 12 km east of Nungarin in the Сentral Wheatbelt. Talgomine rock was ‘originally named Mount Moore’.  In the 19 century the place was used as a stopping place for travellers and stock passing through the area. The reserve became an important watering place. Particularly, it served as a community sheep dip to treat skin infection of animals.

Facilities

There is a free campground at the base of a rock. Facilities at Talgomine Reserve include a picnic table and a long drop toilet, as well as bins. We enjoyed having the place all to ourselves for the night. It turned out to be a much nicer and cozier place than Danberrin Rock where we stopped initially but had to leave due to ants’ infestation.

People camping at Talgomine Reserve

Nice walks and nature at Talgomine Reserve

In the morning, I wandered through the area, climbing over granite outcrops and circling the boulders. Just a few weeks ago, this place would have been ablaze with wildflowers—especially everlastings. Now, only the orange immortelle (Waitzia acuminata) remained, still flowering but past its prime. Aside from that, little else was in bloom.

Waitzia acuminata everlasting at Talgomine Reserve

Yet the landscape held its own quiet beauty. The granite shimmered softly in the morning light, birds chirped cheerfully in the stillness, and a sense of peace settled over everything. We felt grateful to have spent the night here, far from the buzz and bustle of city life—a gentle pause in nature’s embrace.

West MacDonnell National Park

West MacDonnell National Park

West MacDonnell National Park stretches 161km west of Alice Springs in Northern Territory. It is famous for its spectacular gorges, chasms and permanent water holes, offering numerous opportunities for hiking and camping. The park is part of the Red Centre, and as such is often visited together with Kings Canyon and Uluru. Driving through the West MacDonnell Ranges is a sightseeing by itself. Those ancient red colour rippled ranges look quite picturesque. Presently, the park is also known as Tjoritja.

Tyler’s Pass

Our journey (in July 2025) began at Tyler’s Pass, perched at the western edge of the West MacDonnell National Park. This elevated rest area offers sweeping 360-degree views of the surrounding landscape—including the striking, eroded rim of Tnorala (Gosses Bluff), a dramatic remnant of an ancient impact crater.

Tyler's Pass in West MacDonnell National Park

Redbank Gorge campground

West MacDonnell National Park offers a variety of camping options, and we chose to stay at Redbank Gorge, which is on the western side. Access is via a 5 km unsealed dirt road off the sealed Namatjira Drive. Redbank Gorge has two campgrounds: Woodland Campground, which is suitable for all vehicle types, and Ridgetop Campground, which is more suited for tents and swags.

We stayed at Woodland Campground and really enjoyed it. It’s relatively small, offering a sense of privacy and quiet. Facilities include toilets, BBQs, picnic tables, and campfire pits. There are no rubbish bins and you cannot bring your dog there.

The campground is very reasonably priced—especially compared to WA rates. We paid $25 per night for a family of four. (in 2025). Note that park entry fee also applies.

Redbank Gorge campground in West MacDonnell National Park

Redbank Gorge

The gorge itself is located 1.8 km from Woodland Campground, making for a short drive to explore its stunning features. The Redbank Gorge walk is a 2km return trail of moderate difficulty. Beginning at the car park, it descends gently to a dry, sandy creek bed. The path winds through rocky terrain, flanked by white ghost gums and framed by towering red cliffs—leading to a tranquil waterhole. It is serene and peaceful.

Redbank Gorge in West MacDonnell National Park.

A ghost gum glowing white against ancient red rock and soft spinifex grass at Redbank Gorge. It is quiet, mysterious, unforgettable. There’s something haunting and sacred in the stillness of the outback.

This is the view of Mt Sonder’s southern side, from Redbank Gorge.

Finke 2 Mile Bush Camp

Just below the Mt Sonder Lookout, nestled along the banks of the Finke River, lies Finke 2 Mile Bush Camp—a rustic, no-facilities site for self-sufficient travellers. What it lacks in amenities, it makes up for in serenity and awesome views.

Finke 2 Mile bush camp at West MacDonnell National Park

Campers can choose any spot along a 3km stretch of riverbank, with shady trees and pebbled edges perfect for a quiet stay. It’s 4WD-access only, and you need to book online before arrival. Camping fees apply, and there’s no mobile reception—so plan ahead.

We didn’t stay this time, but made a note: this peaceful riverside camp is one to consider for future trips, especially if you’re seeking solitude beneath the ranges.

Ormiston Gorge

In our opinion, this is perhaps the most picturesque of all the places that we visited in the Red Centre. The gorge’s striking combination of red, textured rock and white, powdery ghost gums reflected in the waterhole made it truly unforgettable. When the sun hits the gorge just right, it creates a dramatic contrast—shadowed foregrounds giving way to sunlit cliffs in the distance.

Ormiston Gorge in West MacDonnell National Park

We took the Ghost Gum Walk up to the lookout, then followed the trail along the edge of the gorge and down to the waterhole. At that point, the only way forward was across the icy waterhole, which sees so little sun it never really warms up. So, with teeth clenched, boots in hand, and pants rolled up, off we went. Initially our two sons tried to build a bridge across, but eventually gave up and had to step into the freezing water too. Shortly after the initial numbing of our feet wore off, it actually felt invigorating—like a cold plunge for the soul. And after a few days without a shower, a foot wash was a welcome bonus.

The views continued to amaze and delight as we made our way back to the car park. Though there was one more section where you would either need to swim or get wet. We chose differently. Following our kids’ lead, we managed to climb up and over a rock. It was easy for them, of course, but they had to help us down the other side. 😊

It was quite the adventure—and absolutely worth it.

A family of 4 at Ormiston Gorge in West MacDonnell National Park

Spinifex pigeons are common at Ormiston Gorge. You can see many of them at the car park. It is probably the most beautiful pigeon I’ve seen.

Spinifex pigeon at West MacDonnell National Park

Ochre Pits

Another attraction in the West MacDonnell National Park is colourful ochre pits. The rocky outcrops where they occur, look like a layered cake with white, yellow, orange, red and brown colours. Since ochre is still mined and used by Aboriginal people, it is considered a sacred site. With this in mind, please look but do not touch.

Ochre Pits in the West MacDonnell National Park

A gentle 300m walk leads to the viewing platform, with the option to wander further along the dry creek bed. Facilities include an info shelter and toilets at the car park. Easy access off the main road.

Ellery Creek Big Hole

Ellery Creek Big Hole is a spectacular permanent waterhole carved into the gorge by Ellery Creek, nestled in West MacDonnell National Park. It’s a beautiful spot for swimming—though we skipped that part. There’s a picnic area and a paid campground just steps from the waterhole, with toilets and BBQs for a comfortable stay.

Ellery Creek Big Hole in the West MacDonnell National Park

Simpsons Gap

The closest to Alice Springs attraction in the West MacDonnell National Park is Simpsons Gap. As the name suggests, it is a gap between two rocks, with a permanent waterhole, which is home to including the black-footed-rock wallaby. We haven’t seen the wallaby, as they normally come out at dawn and dusk and we were there in the middle of the day. The Simpsons Gap is a very beautiful place and offers opportunity to admire the ancient landscape dotted by white ghost gums.

Simspons Gap in West MacDonnell National Park

There are excellent facilities at Simpsons Gap, which include toilets, drinking water, bbqs, information shelter, mobile phone boost station. Simpsons Gap is easily accessible via sealed road.

Mereenie Loop

A vehicle with a small caravan stopped on the side of Meerenie Loop

The Mereenie Loop is an unsealed section of the Red Centre that connects Kings Canyon and the West MacDonnell National Park. It is the shortest route between this two places but it is also an adventure drive by itself.

What is the road like?

At the time of writing (2025) it is unsealed road, which is recommended for 4WD only. It took us about 5 hours to travel 155km due to corrugation, but we stopped a few times. Technically it is possible to use 2WD there if you travel slowly.

The scenery at the Mereenie Loop is quite interesting and unique. We were lucky to see wild brumbies, as well as camels.

You can see some wildflowers there too.

It is a great outback experience for anyone with a sense of adventure and the right vehicle. We enjoyed the remoteness and quietness of this route.

It is not a free drive

Mereenie Loop Road passes through the Aboriginal land, so the permit to travel is required. We obtained ours for $6.50 at Kings Canyon Resort while paying for the fuel there. There are no facilities at all and no camping is allowed along this route.

Ginty’s Lookout – the only camping place on Mereenie Loop

Located roughly 40km north of Kings Canyon is Ginty’s Lookout. It is a beautiful place to stop when starting your journey on the Mereenie Loop in the Red Centre, NT. From the lookout you can see the canyon and the diverse landscape. This is 24-hour rest stop with fire pits but no other facilities. This is the only place where you can camp while travelling on the Mereenie Loop. It would be a great place to watch the sun go down but our time at Ginty’s Lookout was short so we just admired the views for a while before hitting the road.

Ginty's Lookout on Meerenie Loop drive

Kings Canyon

Kings Canyon in the Northern Territory

Kings Canyon is an iconic landmark of the Red Centre in the Northern Territory. It is located 300km north from Uluru or 360km west from Alice Springs via Mereenie Loop. It is part of Watarrka National Park.

Kings Canyon Rim Walk

The best way to appreciate the unique beauty of the canyon is to take Kings Canyon Rim Walk, 6km loop walk. It takes about 4 hours to complete. The walk starts with a steep climb to the top of the canyon but it gets easier as you reach the plateau. We found the most impressive part of the canyon was the ancient red wall soaring 100 meters above the Kings Creek to an amazing landscape of bee hive-shaped rocky domes.

Kings Canyon Rim Walk

The bee hive domes were quite spectacular.

Bee hived domes at Kings Canyon

These ripples are the evidence that millions of years ago there were shallow lakes there.

Emergency supplies at Watarrka National Park

What surprised us at Watarrka National Park (Kings Canyon) were a number of first aid points together with emergency satellite phones along the Kings Canyon Rim Walk. We actually had to use one of them when our older son got sick after filling in his water bottle with water provided at the park entry and drinking it. So we opened one of the boxes and took a bottle of water, after filling in the papers (discarding his water which didn’t agree with him). It is a great idea to provide these emergency supplies – something we have not seen before.

Emergency medical supplies at Kings Canyon

Unfortunately for us, after we shared our experience on social media, we were accused of “stealing” precious emergency supplies. The post both on Tiktok and Facebook went viral. But there was no glory in that. The vast majority of people who commented criticized us, providing negative comments, some injected with hatred, bulling and racist references. Internet can be very unforgiving, unfortunately.

That was another interesting thing we during our hike. A gate that separates two walking trails. Still not quite sure why it is needed there :).

Where to stay close by

You have an option to either stay at Kings Creek Station, which is further away from the canyon but provides a more unique rustic experience. Or you can choose convenience and stay at nearby Kings Canyon Discovery Resort. We chose the former and were quite happy with the choice. It was reasonably priced, provided free wifi, free laundry (now – these two were a really great bonus!) and nice walks along the property.