Leewin-Naturaliste National Park is undoubtedly one of the most popular attractions in Western Australia. Firstly, it is the best place to explore amazing cave formations, which are more than a hundred in the region, although only a few are open to public. Secondly, you can get up close to stingrays which frequent the waters of Hamelin Bay. Additionally, Leewin-Naturaliste National Park offers spectacular coastline with many beautiful swimming beaches, world-class surfing spots and fishing locations. Stretching for 120km along the coast in the South West, from Cape Naturaliste in the north to Cape Leewin in the south, the park is also known for its “Cape to Cape Walk” that so many locals and tourist alike undertake all year round. Lastly, Leewin Naturaliste NP is just next to famous Margaret River, where you can indulge in gourmet food and wine experience. To emphasise, this is one place to explore!
Caves of Leewin-Naturaliste National Park
Spectacular limestone caves lying underneath the ground are unquestionably a reason to visit Leewin-Naturaliste National Park. One can marvel at immensely beautiful stalactites, stalagmites and shawls, created by nature over the periof thousands of years. While there are more than hundred caves in Leewin-Natureliste National Park, we only visited Lake Cave.
Lake Cave
It is easily accessible, just off Caves Road. While Lake Cave is not the biggest and not the grandest of all the caves open to public, it is our favourite. As the name suggests, there is a permanent lake inside the cave, in which you can see beautiful reflections of stalactites and straws. Even though the cave is not big, there are 350 steps to climb down (and then back up), hence one needs to be reasonably fit to accomplish this (our 8- and 11-year-old kids were well ahead of me, jumping like monkeys over the steps!)
The entry to the cave (half way down the steps) is through a big sinkhole. Once you are down and inside, looking up into the sky through that hole is particularly an amazing experience.
Another beautiful thing about this cave is Suspended Table – two massive columns hanging down from the ceiling, attached to the sheet of flowstone. Over the years the cave’s sandy floor has been completely washed away. As a result the whole structure, weighing several tones, floats on the surface of the lake.
Lake Cave is alive. Once inside, with the lights turned off you can tune to the silence, in which you can hear droplets of water dripping constantly from the tips of straws and stalactites.
Entry to the cave is with the guided tour only. It is worthwhile to book in advance, especially during public and school holidays. We highly recommend this experience and are looking forward to visiting other caves in this region.
Swimming and stingrays at Hamelin Bay
Hamelin Bay is a beautiful beach between Cape Leewin and Cape Naturaliste. It is a long stretch of white sand, turquoise water and coastal cliffs. Being sheltered and protected from the strong winds, Hamelin Bay is great for swimming, snorkeling, as well as fishing. It is especially popular as a place to spot stingrays, which frequent the bay and can get quite close to the shore.
Unfortunately, we didn’t see any (I suppose the timing was wrong – we visited Hamelin Bay in the afternoon, late January). Despite that, we still enjoyed walking on the beach, spotting Sooty Oystercatchers and Liolophura hirtosa (below).
Apparently, you can also drive on the beach (not from the main beach entrance). I learnt that by walking along the beach and spotting tyre tracks, a sign and vehicles in the distance.
Margaret River Mouth
Another place worth visiting is Margaret River Mouth in Prevelly. This is where Indian Ocean meets Margaret River. In summer the river is isolated from the ocean, creating a shallow warm pool, popular with families, as well for canoeing. You can even walk across it to the beach when the conditions are right. The beach itself is 500meter long, partly protected by the reefs. It can be windy there, which creates good surfing opportunities, albeit for beginners. Also there are excellent facilities with toilets and showers at the carpark.
World class surfing at Surfers Point
Surfers Point is undeniably one of the best places to go surfing and kite surfing. It is a prime location especially for advanced surfers, because the waves here are guaranteed year-round, reaching the height of 7-8 meters. A variety of breaks means that there are swells offering varying difficulty. For us, not surfers, it was fun and thrill to watch a group of surfers of various capabilities and experience to jump above the waves, fall into the water, get up and do it all over again time. For one thing, these surfers possess so much strength (mental and physical) to handle the cold, strong winds and numerous falls into the water.
Camping at Conto’s
If you are looking for nature-based camping, look not further than Conto campground. It is a huge campground, 19km south of Margaret River, off Caves Road, just next to Lake Cave and 4km from the beach. Being close to all the main attractions in that region, it is a popular place, especially with families. Nestled among peppermint and grass trees, there are over 100 campsites located within 8 camping areas, arranged in loops.
All camping areas have drop toilets and non-drinking water and some (bigger ones) have shelters, bbqs and dishwashing facilities. Only 2 camping areas (Chudith and Quenda) are suitable for caravans and trailers. Others are for tents and swags, because you can’t reverse in and consequently have to park behind the poles. Some sites have low clearance and narrow parking, and as a result you won’t be able to open your awning.
We stayed at Hamelin and were fine with that arrangement for this trip. The cost of the campground is $15 per adult per night. Extra facilities include table and fire ring for each camping spot, chopped wood and rubbish skip bins. Sites need to be booked online via Parkstay site. Being a national park, no dogs are allowed at Conto.
Conto beaches
There are some good beaches in Leewin-Naturaliste National Park. Conto Spring Beach is 3km drive from Conto campground, just off the Caves Road, in the Margaret River region. It is accessible to all vehicles. The beach is great for swimming (on calm days), fishing, surfing and just exploring as it has beautiful rock formations and rock pools. Interestingly, the name of the beach comes from the actual freshwater spring that flows from the limestone ridge into the sand. “Cape to Cape walk track” passes through this beach.
A short driving distance from Conto Spring are a number of points of interest. We Round Rock and Merchant Rock of particular interest, both offering spectacular scenery. Merchant Pool has lots of rocks to climb and powerful waves to watch as they crush against the rocks, creating massive splashes. Not only the beaches are spectacular, but they are also great for fishing.
Below: Merchant Rock (left), Round Rock (right).
Small things to observe at Leewin-Naturaliste
Emu, the second-tallest bird (after the ostrich) and can only be found in the wild in Australia, where it is the largest bird (below left).
Welcome Swallow, a small and fast-flying bird (below right).
In conclusion
We hope you have most compelling evidence to visit Leewin-Naturaliste National Park. It is easily accessible, there is no entry fee and there is so much to see, do and wonder at, that without a doubt, you’ll find something for yourself there. We certainly didn’t see and experience everything and need to go back.
Do you have a favourite place or experience in Leewin-Naturaliste National Park?
