Nyinggulara (ex-Ningaloo) National Park

Storm at South Lefroy at Nyinggulara National Park

Nyinggulara (ex-Ningaloo) National Park is part of the Ningaloo (Nyinggulu) Coastal Reserves. The reserves stretch over 220km along the Ningaloo Coast from Winderabandi Pont to Red Bluff. Within the reserves, there are a few areas. These include Warroora Coast, Cardabia Coast (around Coraly Bay), Gnaraloo Coast, Quobba Coast (Red Bluff), and Nyinggulara National Park.

The Ningaloo Coast is a World Heritage site. It is known for being Australia’s largest fringing coral reef. It is also the only large reef that is very close to land. The Ningaloo Coast approximately 1200km north of Perth.

Camping at Nyinggulara National Park

Nyinggulara National Park has 5 campgrounds: Winderabandi, North Lefroy, Point Billie, South Lefroy and Janes Bay. All campgrounds are similar in terms of facilities, of which there are none. There are no toilets, no bins or any other facilities. You are required to bring a chemical toilet. There is a dump point at each campground (a short driving distance of 2km or so). You are paying for a view and a privilege to camp in a remote pristine place. The cost for camping is $10 per person per night, $5 per child. The sites must be booked online in advance through Park Stay WA . There is no national park entry fee. The good thing is that you can bring your dog there.

Point Billie campground at Nyinggulara National Park

Point Billie

There are 39 camping spots at Point Billie and they are just a short walking distance to the beach.

The beach at Point Billie is not the best looking and has a lot of seaweed. We went to nearby South Lefroy for swimming which was very beautiful and clean. Point Billie, like other campgrounds on the Ningaloo Coast are popular for those who are into boating and fishing. In fact, nearly every second camper had a boat of some sort, when we stayed there over Easter long weekend. Despite the strong south easterly winds blowing the first 2 days we were there, we enjoyed our stay. Sunsets are magical and the closeness of the ocean is therapeutic.

Point Billie is the only campground with non-portable water. It is located at the intersection of Cardabia-Ningaloo Road and the turning point to Point Billie.

Winderabandi

Winderabandi is a medium-sized campground with 49 camping spots which vary in size. We didn’t stay there but drove to have a look. Each site looks very different. While there are some sites with privacy, others are right next to the driveway. Some sites are very close to the beach, others tucked behind the dunes. Some are too small for a caravan. There is also a big camping area literally on the beach. The surface on all the sites is very soft sand. In some areas, it may be an issue if you are towing. If you don’t mind soft sand and have a boat, this looks like a great campsite for you.

South Lefroy

South Lefroy is the probably the most beautiful place in Nyinggulara National Park. It is quite a large camping ground with 87 camping spots. The sites vary in size and position. Some of the spots are too tight and small for caravans, others are close to beach. Still others have very soft sand.

There is a mobile booster tower, at the turn off to the campground from Cardabia Ningaloo Road. It might work for certain types of phone at the turnoff to the campground but it didn’t work for us. After the turn off to the campground, the track is quite soft. There is also a small sandy hill to climb.

We did not stay at South Lefroy because we couldn’t get a spot. We tried booking online the moment bookings opened but all the spots for the dates we wanted were taken. Instead, we stayed at a nearby Point Billie and made a day trip to South Lefroy a couple of times. The beach at South Lefroy is absolutely stunning with its crystal-clear turquoise waters and wide sandy beach. You can drive on the beach. Needless to say, South Lefroy is a very popular place.

Road conditions at Nyinggulara National Park

Cardabia Ningaloo 4WD track at Nyinggulara National Park

The access to campgrounds is by 4WD only via a heavily corrugated Cardabia-Ningaloo track from Coral Bay. You can also get to Coral Bay from Exmouth via Yardi Creek crossing, if it is dry. Ningaloo Road has been closed for more than a year. This is true at the time of writing – April 2025. It is unlikely to be opened any time soon. The camp hosts told us that the closure is due to massive sand dunes shifting. This shift blocked the track. All of this was the consequence of the bushfire which burnt the dune vegetation.

Cardabia Ningaloo coastal 4WD track

It was a slow drive from Coral Bay along Cardabia Ningaloo Road for us in April 2025. The approximately 100km drive took us nearly 4 hours (we were towing and also stopping). We travelled between 15 and 35km on a heavily corrugated track, which was a mixture of sand and rocks. We knew that travelling that slow would mean that we arrived at our destination late. It turned out we arrived even later than we thought. We had to travel in the dark too. So we decided to stop along the way to have our dinner before continuing the journey.

Then we missed the turning. When coming to a fork we saw a confusing sign pointing left to Janes Bay and right to ‘camps’. What that meant is ‘other camps further up north’. By the time we realized that we missed the turning. Turning around with a caravan in tow in the dark wasn’t easy at all. It took us quite some time. The squeaky sound of the caravan breaks was horrifying when we reversed all the way into the bush. Luckily the track was wide, and we managed to get back on track.

We had a good time staying at Point Billie campground for 4 nights over Easter in April 2025.

Best snorkelling and camping at Cape Range National Park

We have been looking for best snorkelling and camping at Cape Range National Park for quite a while. Having stayed at various caravan parks in and around Exmouth, this time we decided to stay in Cape Range National Park itself. Not only we were closer to the best beaches where we could see corals and other marine life. In addition, we were also staying just meters from the beach with only a few fellow campers. It is quite a different experience compared to overfull (as it is the case during Easter holiday break) caravan parks. It is all about being closer to nature. Every night we enjoyed sitting outside of our caravan, gazing into the Milky Way up in the sky. We spent time reflecting on how incredibly vast and enormous the universe is, of which we know so little. It is the desire to know, to experience “real life” that drives us to stay in those pristine, unique and often wild places, so rich in natural beauty, geological history and biologically diverse.

Camping at Cape Range National Park

So, we booked a site at Tulki Beach, which is the closest to famous Turquoise Beach. At $11 per night per person (the price has changed since then, and it is $15 you can get a wonderful spot only 200 meters away from the beach, shared with 10 other campers. There are no facilities except for a very decent (no smell) drop toilet.

The sunsets and the sunrises you can view at the beach are amazing.

So, is the abundance of wildlife, including insects and birds, which were fascinating to obsesrve.

Being the season of turtle hatching (April) I went out a couple of nights to look for little turtles making their way to the ocean. I wasn’t lucky enough to see them (they say, turtles are directed by the moon light to the water) but I saw something which looked like the trails left by little turtles moving. Or, I could be wrong.

While there are plenty of activities, including great walk and hiking trails to enjoy in Cape Range National Park, we spent 3 full days at the beaches. We took full advantage of the hot and sunny weather, leaving the walks and hikes for the cooler and overcast days (that was the plan). After all, to see corals and marine life was our main agenda in Cape Range.

Snorkelling sites

Oyster Stacks

Our favourite beach for snorkelling is Oyster Stacks. In my opinion, it is the best snorkelling place. Only a few meters away from the car park, you can find yourself a spot for a picnic and then step into the water. There is only a slight drift and no strong current or waves. The bay is protected by the outer reef which is the closest to the shore in this part. So it is quite safe for inexperienced swimmers and snorkellers. Probably, the only downside of this beach is rocky shoreline (wear beach shoes unless you are using fins – or use both), But once you step into the water you are in a paradise. Oyster Stacks should only be snorkelled at medium or high tide when there is sufficient water over the coral reefs to avoid damaging these delicate organisms.

The abundance of the corals and marine life you see is awe-inspiring. I spent hours trying to take a good shot of these crabs.

Crabs at Oyster Stacks

My regret was not having a professional underwater camera to make a record of all the beauty we have seen (yet another reason to visit this place again!). However, I managed to take a few nice shots of the fishes, star fish, stingray and even a baby reef shark!

Turquoise Beach

Turquoise Beach has been voted Western Australia’s top beach by Trip Advisor Traveller’s Choice. It is very popular (so get there early to get a spot) due to its white sandy shores, crystal clear turquoise water and easy access to corals (only meters away from the shore). There are two places to snorkel in Turquoise Bay – Drift Snorkel area (our choice) and Bay Snorkel area. Entering the waters at the southern end of the beach, let the current take you over the reef while you relax and enjoy viewing beautiful corals and marine life. There are moderate/strong currents at Turquoise Bay area due to a break in the reef further out, so it is important to exist the water before you reach the sandbar.

Sandy Bay

Sandy Bay beach is great for a picnic and after snorkelling experience. While it does have some corals, it is best known for white sandbar and knee-deep water around it which is excellent for kids playing and swimming. This is what our kids enjoyed after they’ve had enough of snorkelling.

Well, our plan to do some hiking to explore the rest of the national park did not materialise due to the Tropical Cyclone Seroja which caused closure of Cape Range Park where we stayed and forced us to change our plans and leave sooner (April 2021).

Instead of going back home, we decided to travel further up north-east to continue our adventures in an uplanned itenary. We ended up going to Karijini and Millstream Chichester National Park.

Storm is coming… and we are leaving.

And, yes, we went back to Cape Range again, exactly one year later. We discovered yet another wonderful snorkelling spot, which is a hidden gem.