Lake Argyle

Lake Argyle, located 70km south of Kununurra in the Kimberley region in the north east is Western Australia’s largest and Australia’s second largest fresh water man-made lake. Holding as much water as 19 Sydney harbours, it has a surface of over 100 square km and more than 70 islands. The lake was created in 1973 by construction of a dam to direct the Ord River (once the fastest flowing river in Australia) which enabled development of the agricultural industry in the Ord Valley.

Famous 35-meter Infinity Pool at Lake Argyle Caravan Park, where we stayed

Wildlife and the speed boat cruise

Lake Argyle is home to an estimated 30,000 fresh water crocodiles (and yes, you can still swim there – we did!), 150,000 waterbirds, 26 species of fish and some unique animals, like rock wallabies.

Rock Wallabies

Fresh water crocodiles

One of the best ways to see all these animals, birds and fishes is to take a cruise. During our 2-hour morning cruise on a speed boat we only covered 25% of the lake, which gave us an idea of just how vast the lake is.

Hikes and walks

Lake Argyle has some amazing walks, hikes and drives around it. Dead Horse Springs and Spillway Creek (4 and 10km respectively from the Caravan Park) were nice spots for watching birdlife.

Dead Horse Springs (below)

Great Egret (above left). Pied Heron (above right)

Spillway Creek (above)

Pannikin Bay Sunset Lookout (via a short but quite rocky 4WD only track) offered magnificent views of the lake. The changing colours of the lake and bushes were mesmerizing to watch.

Pannikin Bay Sunset Lookout (above)

Emma Gorge

Spectacular Emma Gorge

Emma Gorge is one of the most spectacular gorges (and personally, my favourite) on the Gibb River Road. It is a definite “must to see” attraction. It is easily accessible, only 2km off the Gibb River Road, close to Kununurra. Located on El Questro property, permit is required to visit Emma Gorge (like any other attractions within El Questro). The walk to the gorge is classified Grade 4, which is moderate, 3,2km return. It has some big and smaller rocks to scramble, occasional steep climbs but generally a very pleasant hike with beautiful scenery.

There are a few small pools with clear emerald water on the way.

One of them is home to a fresh water crocodile that is often seen there.

The end of the hiking trail is the most impressive sight to behold with the waterfall dropping from 65-meter-high rock into a big waterhole, enclosed on three sides by red cliffs. This creates the impression and acoustics of being in an amphitheater. The water is cold but there is a thermal spring on the right side of the gorge. Did we swim? Yes, we did – although it was more like a dip followed by sitting at the hot spring, which was too busy for us to take a picture without other people in it.

65-meter water drop at Emma Gorge

Windjana Gorge – first stop on the Gibb

Our first stop on the Gibb River Road was Windjana Gorge (Bandilngan). Located 155km from Derby and 21km off the Gibb River Road on Fairfield Leopold Road, it was an easy drive from Derby (with 21km being the only unsealed section of the drive for us that day). Windjana Gorge is a great introduction to the whole Gibb River Road experience and in our opinion is a must.

Campground

Windjana campground is very spacious. Bookings can be made online via Parks stay WA. But you can still rely on getting a spot if you arrive late and during the peak season. Just be prepared to move if you are asked by the ranger. We watched a number of campers had to move because they put their tents too close to the bush. For $17 a night per person (in 2022) you get access to clean flushing toilets, solar powered showers and tap water from the nearby creek. The showers might be hot or not – depending on how busy the campground is.

Windjana Gorge campground

Exploring the gorge

The national park entry fee (separate) allows you to explore the gorge, which is in walking distance. There are a couple of hiking trails there.

The Savannah walk is an easy 1km return loop walk that gives you a closer look at the ridges and boab trees growing there.

Walking this trail at the sunset gives you a different perspective, as the setting sun colours the rocks in orange.

The Savannah trail at sunset

The 5km return Gorge trail allows you to experience the profile of the Devonian Reef.

The trail follows the Lennard River, offering picturesque views.

Look for a fossil of Trilobite – an extinct marine arthropod, thought to be more than 250 million years old – and also and giant spiders at the beginning of the trail.

Fresh water crocodiles

Windajana Gorge is one of the best places on the Gibb River Road to see fresh water crocodiles.

There are two types of crocodiles found in Australia (and both are in Kimberley) – saltwater or estuarine crocodiles and freshwater or Johnston’s river crocodiles. Saltwater crocodiles are big (up to 7 meters long) and are dangerous to humans and we’ve only seen from the far distance. Contrary to their name, they live in fresh waters too, up to 200km away from the coast and can attack in less than a second. Fresh waters crocodiles are much smaller (not more than 3 meters long), have smaller teeth and narrow snout. They live in creeks, rivers, billabongs and are often seen sunbathing on the shore. While they are considered non-aggressive, they can bite if disturbed, so they are still better admired from the distance.

Windjana Gorge is home to many more animals, as well as birds.

A lot of people only stay for one night at Windjana Gorge and then move on. We stayed 2 nights and found that it was the right decision. When you take your time while travelling, you can appreciate the beauty of the place and notice little things you would otherwise miss. Where are we travelling next? Tunnel Creek!

Us at Windjana Gorge