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Doolena Gorge
Tag: Free camping in Pilbara
Respite at Sandy Creek near Newman
After leaving Kalamina Gorge in Karijini National Park (due to heavy rains the park closed), we headed towards Newman to find some place to stay there for a night. We dropped in at the information centre for the kids to buy souvenir coins and for us to get information on the road conditions, as well as some possible places to camp. It was still raining heavily when we left Newman and at 5.30pm it looked quite dark. The ladies at the Information Centre shared with us local’s secret spot – Sandy Creek.
Travelling on Great Northern Highway from Newman we turned onto Marble Bar Road and travelled for approximately 24.5km before turning right (after Kalgan Pool track) onto unmarked track. Travelling for about 600 meters we have arrived at what looked like a campground. Ahead of us was a creek which under the rain and in the dark we did not want to attempt crossing. So we followed the track on the right. There was a 4WD Landcruiser Troopy with a pop top and we parked not far away from it.
It rained the whole night but the rain stopped in the morning giving us a much needed break to get out of our very tight and full of stuff dwelling.
The kids measured the depth of the crossing. It was too deep to wet our boots.
We found a narrower passage further away and jumped over it onto the other side. Sandy Creek was actually further away. It looked like a small river with so much water in it after it rained.
The place looked very beautiful and quite magical even though everything was wet. We decided to get some rest and stay here for another night.
Kids were busy the whole day building houses, bridges (in fact, the whole village!) out of what they found on the ground – stones, leaves and branches.
I went for numerous walks around with my camera looking for more insects and flowers to take pictures of.
And Brian cooked a nice “Sandy Creek roast” for us.
We also drove through the first creek to see what was on the other side. That is where we saw the actual Sandy Creek. There was another camper, a lovely couple, who parked just near the creek. They told us that Sandy Creek was formed because of the water that has been pumped out by the local mine. The first crossing before Sandy Creek was the overflown water from heavy rained that gathered in the ground holes.
It was a lovely respite for us. Being on the road for many hours we really enjoyed a day of not driving and going anywhere but simply resting and enjoying the place as it was. A true outback experience.
Journey over a few million years…
Travelling over millions of years in time…
Imagine travelling over time, not a few years but over millions of years teleporting in time on your journey to Pilbara. Dinosaurs roamed the earth on land and in the oceans. Volcanoes erupted. Tectonics plates (probably, upper zone of mantle) shifted Pangea (supercontinent) as it was called about 180 million years ago. It then broke up, separating into segments of continent, to form what we know today as various continents around the world.
It was different then. There were, perhaps, no humans until first historical find revealed humans’ existence in the last thousand years. The land on the continents was different. Further volcanic eruptions happened. Tectonic plates shifted again. Colliding of earth’s crust, land was pushed against to form mountains in one place and others sank to form oceans, lakes, rivers and gorges. Meteorites struck the earth. Deadly ashes spewed into the air, eventually covering the sun for years. Plants died and so did the many species of dinosaurs and reptiles. We were teleported into a few million years ahead to present day.
Journey through Pilbara
As we approached Newman, my thoughts were interrupted when Andrei Klochkov suggested I consider taking a flight from the domestic airport to alleviate my concerns of breakdown. The offer didn’t last as we took a right turn into off beaten road. As we travelled late into the night, it was like a desperation to find a stopover somewhere. Locating this place was a bit of a chore. But somewhat managed it. We found the trail that went below the rail lines under a bridge. The unsealed road was followed further by a dirt road, corrugation being not that bad initially. Pulling a 5.5 m caravan was one of my biggest concerns.
We travelled for nearly 2 hours on a 17km long corrugated road, trying to find our way in the dark night. The vehicle and the caravan rattled left, right, back and forth. I had concerns of failing chassis both in 4WD and caravan or punctured tyres. I prayed for us to arrive to our destination safely and often checked the conditions of the wheels, the chassis, tow bar, etc to ensure all are intake during comfort breaks.
Cobbah Downs River Crossing camp
The sound of running water on the side of a stream, and the sight of two vehicle reflectors were a relief to me. I knew we have arrived the destination. We setup camps in Cobbah Downs River Crossing after identifying suitable ground. As we arrived late into the night, we had express meals and quickly retired to bed.
The sun rose and broke the horizon, casting a strong orange colour on the surface of the high rock behind us. I could see, for the first time, the splendour and beauty of this place in its morning glory. Andrei promised that the place will have a pool, nice meals and cocktail bar. It wasn’t a disappointment.
We spent the second night so we could pamper ourselves. The running water from the stream was a blessing. Our two neighbours, after we got acquainted, were wonderful. Brad and Rachel on our left and Elai and Alexis across the stream. The latter group (French and Canadian) were stranded like ‘everyone else from isolation of movement’.
Hickman Crater
We continued the journey and bid farewell to our new found friends. I started to pray when we hit the corrugated trail again. Our next stop was Hickman Meteorite Crater. The journey into the wild took us into no man’s land.
Upon reaching where we believed we could set camp, we ventured further up in the 4WD on a really bad corrugation trail. Gosh! We rocked in every direction possible. I swore that if things could go wrong, there would be disaster.
The sight of the crater was a sight to behold. It was even more awesome from an aerial drone footage.
We returned to camp and prepared meals later in the evening.
Albert Tognolini – on the doorstep of Karijini
We continued our journey the next day after saying hello to early risers Elai and Alexis who drove by past us. We arrived Albert Tognolini in the mid-afternoon. This site is overlooking the scenic range. It seems that this end of the range shows where land masses were shifted forming mountains with jagged fault lines cut across mountain ranges on its sides, exposing the layered rock surfaces.
As night fell, we had open fire cooked meals in hotpot and other assorted dishes and snacks. Tonic bar was open with multi-talented barman Andrei serving up cocktails. Having a shower behind the camper with a night view of the mountain ranges silhouette from the brightly night moon was extraordinary. Marina Klochkov shouted, ‘there is no running water’ after turning the tap. I whispered to my elder son and he said out aloud ‘put in 50 Rubles and the tap will have running water!” There were bursts of laughter in the group sitting around the table concentrating in the game of ‘Mafia and Citizens’.
Karijini National Park
We travelled into the Karijini national park the following morning. First, we visited the gorges (at Fortescue Falls), then to Weano Gorge. We hiked into the gorge in a cautious manner after learning of an accident in the other gorge. As we hiked down precariously step after step, l wondered how it must have been a shocking experience when the earth surfaces opened under the ground when tectonics plates shifted.
The sight of the rock walls with its jagged corners protruding out in even angles started to smoothen as we got deeper into the gorge. The erosion of some forms, perhaps from flooding water over many million of years had polished the surfaces.
I stopped frequently looking up to study the rock surface formations. I pointed to my children and emphasised what they had learn from books and no could actually see the real things. All of us had a great time.
The next day we visited Knox Gorge after packing up and towing the caravan. Another amazing place to excite all of us. The routine of going into the gorge became normal for us, although we still had to be careful as such places are well known for accidents including death every year.
In conclusion
Words do not do justice to Pilbara. Visit and see for yourselves and indulge and experience millions of years of nature’s history under your feet and the surroundings in this present time as ‘l have lived through times over many millions of years’.
Facts sheet:
Distance covered: 3141km
Vehicle: Pajero GLRX diesel
Caravan: A tin box
Free camping: 8 nights
In tow: Russians Mafia and Citizens (social deduction game) that killed each other and all survived the trip 🙂
Narrated by Brian.
