Cobbah Downs River Crossing Archives

During our journey to Pilbara – fault lines on the mountains in Karijini

Travelling over millions of years in time…

Imagine travelling over time, not a few years but over millions of years teleporting in time on your journey to Pilbara. Dinosaurs roamed the earth on land and in the oceans. Volcanoes erupted. Tectonics plates (probably, upper zone of mantle) shifted Pangea (supercontinent) as it was called about 180 million years ago. It then broke up, separating into segments of continent, to form what we know today as various continents around the world.

It was different then. There were, perhaps, no humans until first historical find revealed humans’ existence in the last thousand years. The land on the continents was different. Further volcanic eruptions happened. Tectonic plates shifted again. Colliding of earth’s crust, land was pushed against to form mountains in one place and others sank to form oceans, lakes, rivers and gorges. Meteorites struck the earth. Deadly ashes spewed into the air, eventually covering the sun for years. Plants died and so did the many species of dinosaurs and reptiles. We were teleported into a few million years ahead to present day.

On the edge of Hickman Crater. Aerial drone footage – credit to Andrei Klochkov.

Journey through Pilbara

As we approached Newman, my thoughts were interrupted when Andrei Klochkov suggested I consider taking a flight from the domestic airport to alleviate my concerns of breakdown. The offer didn’t last as we took a right turn into off beaten road. As we travelled late into the night, it was like a desperation to find a stopover somewhere. Locating this place was a bit of a chore. But somewhat managed it. We found the trail that went below the rail lines under a bridge. The unsealed road was followed further by a dirt road, corrugation being not that bad initially. Pulling a 5.5 m caravan was one of my biggest concerns.

We travelled for nearly 2 hours on a 17km long corrugated road, trying to find our way in the dark night. The vehicle and the caravan rattled left, right, back and forth. I had concerns of failing chassis both in 4WD and caravan or punctured tyres. I prayed for us to arrive to our destination safely and often checked the conditions of the wheels, the chassis, tow bar, etc to ensure all are intake during comfort breaks.

Checking of the rig on the way to Cobbah Downs River Crossing

Cobbah Downs River Crossing camp

The sound of running water on the side of a stream, and the sight of two vehicle reflectors were a relief to me. I knew we have arrived the destination. We setup camps in Cobbah Downs River Crossing after identifying suitable ground. As we arrived late into the night, we had express meals and quickly retired to bed.

The sun rose and broke the horizon, casting a strong orange colour on the surface of the high rock behind us. I could see, for the first time, the splendour and beauty of this place in its morning glory. Andrei promised that the place will have a pool, nice meals and cocktail bar. It wasn’t a disappointment.

Cobbah Downs River Crossing in the morning

We spent the second night so we could pamper ourselves. The running water from the stream was a blessing. Our two neighbours, after we got acquainted, were wonderful. Brad and Rachel on our left and Elai and Alexis across the stream. The latter group (French and Canadian) were stranded like ‘everyone else from isolation of movement’.

Hickman Crater

We continued the journey and bid farewell to our new found friends. I started to pray when we hit the corrugated trail again. Our next stop was Hickman Meteorite Crater. The journey into the wild took us into no man’s land.

Upon reaching where we believed we could set camp, we ventured further up in the 4WD on a really bad corrugation trail. Gosh! We rocked in every direction possible. I swore that if things could go wrong, there would be disaster.

The sight of the crater was a sight to behold. It was even more awesome from an aerial drone footage.

Aerial drone footage of the Hickman Crater. Credit to Andrei Klochkov

We returned to camp and prepared meals later in the evening.

Albert Tognolini – on the doorstep of Karijini

We continued our journey the next day after saying hello to early risers Elai and Alexis who drove by past us. We arrived Albert Tognolini in the mid-afternoon. This site is overlooking the scenic range. It seems that this end of the range shows where land masses were shifted forming mountains with jagged fault lines cut across mountain ranges on its sides, exposing the layered rock surfaces.

As night fell, we had open fire cooked meals in hotpot and other assorted dishes and snacks. Tonic bar was open with multi-talented barman Andrei serving up cocktails. Having a shower behind the camper with a night view of the mountain ranges silhouette from the brightly night moon was extraordinary. Marina Klochkov shouted, ‘there is no running water’ after turning the tap. I whispered to my elder son and he said out aloud ‘put in 50 Rubles and the tap will have running water!” There were bursts of laughter in the group sitting around the table concentrating in the game of ‘Mafia and Citizens’.

Karijini National Park

We travelled into the Karijini national park the following morning. First, we visited the gorges (at Fortescue Falls), then to Weano Gorge. We hiked into the gorge in a cautious manner after learning of an accident in the other gorge. As we hiked down precariously step after step, l wondered how it must have been a shocking experience when the earth surfaces opened under the ground when tectonics plates shifted.

The sight of the rock walls with its jagged corners protruding out in even angles started to smoothen as we got deeper into the gorge. The erosion of some forms, perhaps from flooding water over many million of years had polished the surfaces.

I stopped frequently looking up to study the rock surface formations. I pointed to my children and emphasised what they had learn from books and no could actually see the real things. All of us had a great time.

The next day we visited Knox Gorge after packing up and towing the caravan. Another amazing place to excite all of us. The routine of going into the gorge became normal for us, although we still had to be careful as such places are well known for accidents including death every year.

In conclusion

Words do not do justice to Pilbara. Visit and see for yourselves and indulge and experience millions of years of nature’s history under your feet and the surroundings in this present time as ‘l have lived through times over many millions of years’.

Knox Gorge dring the journey to Pilbara — Knox Gorge

Facts sheet:

Distance covered: 3141km

Vehicle: Pajero GLRX diesel

Caravan: A tin box

Free camping: 8 nights

In tow: Russians Mafia and Citizens (social deduction game) that killed each other and all survived the trip 🙂

Narrated by Brian.

Russian mafia. Credit to Andrei Klochkov

4WD next to a river in Pilbara — Cobbah Downs River Crossing Campground

Our group of 10 people (including children) enjoyed a wonderful morning exploring beauty and uniqueness of Walga Rock. After a quick meal of sandwiches and fruits, it was time to leave. While our main destination was Karijini, my heart was drawn to Newman and its surroundings where I planned to spend a couple of days before heading to famous gorges of Karijini. My initial plan was to have a night at Wunna Munna, where we could see Aboriginal rock art.

The journey was long. We had to cover more than 600 km and were hoping to get to the destination before sunset. It is always unnerving to set up a camp in the dark. We stopped a few times. Some stops were necessary as we had to fill up diesel and water bottles. At other times we stopped to stretch and move the limbs. I always took this opportunity to take pictures of flowers and scenery.

Yet another stop to fill up diesel. While the kids are posing for a picture, I take notice of the famous truck sign that reads “Without trucks Australia stops”. I feel appreciation for the trucks and the hard work truck drivers do, covering long distances through harsh outback every day.

The sun is setting and we are nowhere near our destination. As I look out of the window and take a picture of the sunset, I am amazed to spot the moon next to the sun. Sun is going down and only rays of its light are now visible. The moon is shining brighter with each passing minute.

I am having second thoughts about our stop over and start to discuss with Andrey alternatives. Through wikicamp I found a place that promised to have water, which meant we could take a shower or go for a swim. It was a very welcoming thought, considering that we didn’t have shower for 2 days. I also thought that this place was nearer than Wunna Munna.

How to get to Cobbah Downs River Crossing campground

There are no clear directions to Cobbah Downs River Crossing, so the best way is to obtain a mud map from Newman Visitor Centre (along with the permit to get there, as it is a requirement) and travel during the day time. However, traveling at night we had no other option but to locate Cobbah Downs River Crossing campground in wikicamp and then set directions from there when we had internet connection approaching Newman.

Directions

Travelling on Great Northern Highway from Perth, we turned right onto Marble Bar Road (somewhat 10 km before Newman) and covered approximately 28 km before turning left onto Kalgan Pool Road. From here this dirt road is rated 4WD, although initially it is not. We got lost in the dark and having no clear posted signs wasn’t helpful either. Shortly after turning onto Kalgan Road, there is a fork junction and we made a mistake here by turning left too soon. The correct way is to go straight underneath the rail line and then, having passed the rail tracks, to turn left. Now we only had to travel for 17 km straight to our destination. However, this was the most difficult part of the journey. It took us 1.5 hour to cover those 17km on a badly corrugated road. Our Pajero towing 4WD caravan was managing well, but our friends in a non 4WD vehicle had some difficulty. We stopped a few times, waiting for them. Once or twice Captain Andrey had to take a shovel and level some of the holes in the road to make it a bit smoother. The vehicle rattled left and right vigorously. Initially the kids were scared, not even so much because of the rocking. The track was surrounded by bushes and they looked spooky in the moonlight. By the time we finally arrived at our destination at around 9pm, 2 of the 3 kids were fast asleep. Our friends arrived 10 minutes later.

Setting up a camp

We were surprised to see that we were not the only adventurous people here. There were neighbours on our left with a camper and another 4WD with a rooftop tent across the stream. There was enough space for our whole group next to the neighbour with a camper, so we set up our camp there.

In the dark we heard soothing rustling sound of the running water and we ventured out to wash face and feet which was very pleasant and refreshing.

After a quick meal of canned food and vegetables we retired to bed.

Paradise

The new day greeted us warmly. We all were eager to explore this beautiful spot and jump into the river for a much-needed cleansing.

This place was so above our expectations (Andrey did jokingly promised that we would have swimming pool with a bar there) that we decided to stay the whole day and an extra night there so we could soak the beauty of this place and recuperate after a lot of driving for the past two days.

We couldn’t get enough of it. Crystal clear running water, revealing magnificent colours of the rocks and mermaid like seaweed underneath was mesmerizing. Where the rocks piled, the water was cascading, forming nice waterfalls and little swirls which were a delight to observe. The kids were having great time chasing each other in the water, while the adults cleansed themselves thoroughly by soaking.

While snacking on fruits we watched a number of 4WDs pass by across the stream.

This is where a strong desire to do the same was born in me. Neither me, nor my husband has never done this before and we were pretty much novice in real 4WD driving. Like a bird mother that kicks our her youngsters, Andrey refused to drive and said that we must do it ourselves. Let’s go for it! I was thrilled at the opportunity! The kids readily jumped at the back.

Car driving through river — Photo by Andrey Klochkov

It was a true sense of adventure and achievement driving across the river for the first time. The key here was not to stop and keep driving all the way. Our achievement was celebrated by a Baptism ceremony performed by Andrey and Sergei, signifying that we are now officially 4WD travelers (Brian being the head of the family was the one to receive it 😊).

Brian being baptized as a real 4WD traveler!

Having running water at our disposal meant that we could use it not only for a swim or bath, but also for cooking. Ultimately, true camping means utilizing what the nature gives you, including water. Hot soup prepared with water from the stream in a campfire stove tasted delicious!

Having rested after lunch, part of our group set off climbing up the hill and exploring that area. The colours of the blue sky, red earth and green bushes formed a magnificent contrast.

Climbing up the hill, while stepping on the rocks, we discovered that they produce metallic sound, when they hit each other, indicating just how much iron ore they contain. The rocks were of various sizes, colour shades and patterns.

The only way I could leave this paradise is by first capturing numerous images on the camera, so that I could remember and reminiscence the “out of this world” beauty of this amazing and unspoiled place in Pilbara.

Driving back to Newman, we saw in the daylight just how bad the corrugation was.

Corrugated road near Kalgan pool, Pilbara — One of the many stops on the 17km long corrugated road to Cobbah Downs River

But the trip seemed to be shorter and a little bit easier than the night journey two days ago. Fascinated with Pilbara region we wanted to explore a few more places before heading to Karijini. See in you in the next post!

Tag: Cobbah Downs River Crossing

Journey over a few million years…