Eyre Peninsula

Murphy's Haystacks on the Eyre Peninsula

The Eyre Peninsula is a triangular shaped peninsula in South Australia. It is known for its rugged coastline with many natural attractions, endless beaches, unique wildlife and great seafood.

Western coast of the Eyre Peninsula

Haslam

Haslam is a small coastal town in the western part of the Eyre Peninsula, South Australia. It is located 45km northwest of Streaky Bay, off Flinders Hwy. Established back in 19 century, it was originally a deep sea port and a coastal shipping town. There is an old jetty that was built in 1912. It still functions and serves as a fishing jetty.

Haslam is a popular place for an overnight stop for those travelling east to west or vice versa. It was a savior for us, as we couldn’t secure any accommodation in Streaky Bay. There is a council-run campground, which costs us only $10 per night. Facilities include picnic tables. Public toilets, dump point and newly build playground with exercise equipment are only 100 meters away.

This is what I saw when arrived late at night at Haslam. It was pitch dark and I was struggling to see anything near the waterfront. The moon aligned with Venus looked beautiful up in the sky. The lights at the end of the jetty were reflected in the water. It was quiet and peaceful.

Streaky Bay

Streaky Bay is a larger coastal town further south from Haslam. It is known for its spectacular coastline with many natural wonders. It is also a prime fishing location. Being one of the largest towns for many hundred kilometers, it is the center for essential services. For us, Streaky Bay was the place to explore nature’s wonders. There are many scenic drives and trails around Streaky Bay. With limited time available, we only covered a small section of what it is there to explore.

Whistling Rocks and blowholes near Streaky Bay on the Eyre Peninsula

Whistling Rocks and Blowholes

Cape Bauer Loop Coastal Drive was our first choice. It is 38km loop drive. First, we visited the Whistling Rocks and the Blowholes. We love blowholes and try to visit them as we come across them during our travels. These Blowholes were formed when vertical fractures in the limestone cliffs become enlarged by erosion over thousands of years. Sometimes these pipes are connected at the base of the cliffs with open air. In that case the waves force the air and sea water through the spaces. This is how the fountains of sea water emerge from the rocks with forceful sounds. The phenomenon is known as blowholes. Sometimes only air comes out. Other times you can see water too.

Yanerbie Sand dunes

Yanerbie Sandhills are part of Westall Way 32km loop drive. It was a fun place to visit for our kids as they were playing with the sand. Visiting sand dunes during sunset was quite magical too for photography.

While walking towards Blowholes and Whistling Rock, we saw this Jacky lizard. I love how this little lizard has so many common names. According to wikipedia, it is also known as blood-sucker, stonewalker and tree dragon. No matter how it is called, it is a cute little lizard.

Jacky lizard of the Eyre Peninsula

Venus Bay

Venus Bay is a small tourist and fishing town that lies between Streaky Bay and Elliston. The place is quite picturesque. It has a unique curved jetty, used by marine vehicles, as well as fishermen.

The beach is calm, thus making it a popular holiday destination.

Apart from a unique curved jetty another attraction of Venus Bay is Needle Eye lookout. You can see the beautiful coastline of the Great Australian Bight from there.

Walkers Rock

Walkers Rock campground near Elliston is a usual coastal campground on the Eyre Peninsula. We arrived late at night when it was dark. Only in the morning we had a chance to briefly see what the camp looked like. We were not particularly impressed by the layout. Some sites are more or less private, while others are cramped too close together with no privacy. The worst thing was that there was only 1 toilet (!) for 34 sites. And if you are far away from it, you would need to walk nearly 10 minutes towards it. Easier to drive.

But – this was the place where I was lucky enough to witness real Aurora for the first time. And what a show it was!

Leaving the campground, I saw these Cape Barren Geese.

Murphy’s Haystacks

Murphy’s Haystacks is a unique geological rock formation that attracts a lot of visitors, especially for those who love photography. These wind-eroded granite rocks are over 1500 million old. And what’s in the name? It happens that the rocks got their name from a Scottish agricultural expert. While travelling on day, he saw them from the distance and thought they were haystacks. Being located on Murphy’s property, they became known as Murphy’s Haystacks. But technically they are inselbergs, which means isolated rock hills.

Murphy’s Haystacks are 40km east from Streaky Bay and 2km off the Flinders Hwy.   They are located on private property and a small entry fee applies.

Talia Caves

Another unique natural attraction of the Eyre Peninsula is Talia Caves, which include the Tub and the Woolshed. It is the Woolshed that gets most of the tourists’ attention. We nearly missed it as the name sounded misleading to us. We walked down the steps to the rocks and spent some time marveling at the mighty ocean. Kids were exploring little rock holes with their marine treasures inside.

Then we took pictures outside of the giant cave but didn’t think of entering it.

The slippery slope inside did look slightly dangerous. But braving for the sake of memories and photo opportunity we decided to give it a try. When you look out into the ocean from the cave it feels like looking through a natural window. The window that has been carved by wind and waves, over thousands of years.

The Woolshed at Talia Caves on the Eyre Peninsula

The Tub is further down the track. It is a relatively large crater in the rocks that connects to the ocean via a tunnel.

The Tub at the Talia Caves on the Eyre Peninsula

Talia Caves are 40km north of Elliston.

Central Eyre Peninsula

Kimba

Who doesn’t know where Kimba is? Well, we didn’t know until our trip to eastern states in December 2024. Kimba is an iconic place, in our opinion. Probably, anyone who drove from east to west, or vice versa, knows that. Kimba is a small rural town, but it is significant. It marks halfway between the east and west of Australia. There is even a popular sign there Halfway Across Australia. This is next to an 8-meter-tall statue of a galah. It’s another photo opportunity.

Halfway across Australia sign and big Galah in Kimba on the Eyre Peninsula

There is also a silo art, as well as a nice free campground. We didn’t stay at the campground, as it was still early for us and we had to make more kms. But we heard good reviews about it, so it is on our list for any future travels.

Silo art at Kimba on the Eyre Peninsula

Iron Knob

Iron Knob is the birthplace of Australia’s steel industry. For such a tiny town, it is quite impressive that it has a Visitor Centre. The population is just slightly above 100. It also has a museum. They run tours of the nearby iron ore mine during cooler season.

Unfortunately, the Visitor Centre was closed due to extremely hot weather and then holidays at the end of December. But the town surprised us with great facilities for travellers. These include a free campground, newly installed toilets, showers, and a kitchen area. There is an interesting contrast that you can see in this town. Parts of the town look abandoned, making it almost like a ghost town.

Iron Knob on the Eyre Peninsula

Yet, there are new and clean amenities. The dedicated Visitor Centre has murals on the walls and looked very inviting from the outside. It also has a museum depicting local mining history. The “Aussie” spirit is trying to survive here.

Dunny painting in Iron Knob on the Eyre Peninsula

Dirk Hartog Island

Dirk Hartog Island is Western Australia’s largest island. It is located 2km off shore from Steep Point – Australian mainland most westerly point in Shark Bay. The island got its name after a Dutch sea captain Dirk Hartog, who was the first European to step on the island in 1616. Current “Return to 1616” ambitious project aims to restore ecological balance on Dirk Hartog Island to its pristine condition prior to European settlement in 1616. First settlers brought goats and sheep with them which caused damage to native plants and reduction of native fauna. Since the start of the project in 2007 these domestic animals have been removed and are now replaced with native species. Feral goats still occur in large numbers in Edel Land National Park.

How to get there

Dirk Hartog Island is accessible only by boat from Denham, light aircraft or a private barge from Steep Point. Most people, especially the 4WD enthusiasts, choose a barge to get there. Barge transfer is an experience by itself and is quite iconic. 2km long journey across South Passage from Shelter Bay in Edel Land National Park takes about 15 minutes. The barge can accommodate only one vehicle.

Vehicle on the barge travelling to Dirk Hartog Island

What is the condition of the track like

Driving on Dirk Hartog Island is an adventure by itself. At nearly 80km long and 15km wide, travelling on the island is a bit of a challenge due to heavy corrugation. It might take a full day to travel from bottom to the top of the island. Should you be driving fast there? Here are our thoughts.

There are also some rocky sections, slopes and tilts and few sand dunes to cross. You will definitely need a reliable 4WD for this kind of terrain.

Camping at the national park

It is possible to camp on Dirk Hartog Island either in the Homestead or in the national park. There are only 20 sites at the Homestead and 20 at the national park. Bookings are essential through Dirk Hartog Island Homestead site. There are no facilities at the national park and you would need to bring everything with you and take your rubbish when you leave. No dogs and no campfires are allowed at the national park.

We stayed at Notch Point in the national park, which is the closest to the barge arrival site campground on Dirk Hartog Island. It is located on the eastern side of the island, which is protected from strong winds and has clear calm waters. There are only 2 spots allocated for camping either side of a beach, which gives everyone plenty of space and privacy (just as we like it!). You pay premium for such a privilege to camp in this pristine idealistic place. We spent 4 epic days and nights at Notch Point, fully enjoying ourselves, despite millions of flies 😊. They are part of camping, anyway, and we just treat them as such.

Like anywhere on the island, you can enjoy fishing, swimming and snorkeling, or just relaxing by the beach.

The sunsets and sunrises are some of the best we’ve ever seen.

Dirk Hartog Island Homestead

A lot of people choose to stay at Dirk Hartog Island Homestead sites where there are more facilities (including hot showers) and also onsite bar and merchandise shop. It is a great place for those who want a bit more social life in this remote location. When people gather at the bar every afternoon, it feels like a little village with all the buzz going on.

We stayed for 1 night at the Homestead, so we didn’t need to travel far for the barge transfer in the morning.

The best thing about the Homestead for us was free use of paddle boards and kayaks, which we enjoyed very much. We managed to see sea snakes, sting rays, star fishes and tropical fishes.

What to see on the island

Blowholes

The first thing you might like to see as you arrive on the island is blowholes. We found the blowholes in Edel Land National Park more impressive (meaning, louder and bigger). But these are still worth a visit, even if to appreciate the beauty of the landscape. Those massive Zuytdorp Cliffs rising out of mighty ocean are awesome. They are a visual example of fault scarp, which is actually the longest in Australia. Blowholes are on the western side of the island, 3km off the main track, on the way to Dirk Hartog Island Homestead.

Surf Point

Surf Point might need a bit more time than just a quick visit. It is a sanctuary zone in the south of Dirk Hartog Island. It is a 15km drive from Cape Ransonnet (the barge arrival site), on the western side. Surf Point is a great place to go snorkeling (assuming you don’t mind sharing the space with sharks 😊). The sharks, even though being small and relatively harmless, do scare many people away. But honestly, sharks looked more scared of us, then we of them 😊.

We spent a few hours at Surf Point, walking along on the beach and going for short dips. You can find some corals, giant clams and tropical fishes in the rocky pools on the exposed side of Surf Point.

Drone helped us to see a turtle too and many more sharks 😊.

Sand dunes

There are a few sand dunes on Dirk Hartog Island that you will need to cross if you travel north, past Homestead. They are actually fun to drive. We stopped for a closer look to appreciate the beauty of the landscape, shaped by nature. Kids had lots of fun going up and down the slopes. If you want to take nice pictures, going there in the afternoon, when the sun is a bit lower, is probably best.

Sandy Point

During our last trip we managed to venture only as far north as Sandy Point (having not realized how slow the driving on the island is ☹ but all the more the reason to visit the island again). Sandy Point is roughly in the middle of the island on the eastern side. It is a nice sandy beach, with a sanctuary zone on one side and fishing area somewhere further away. You can camp at Sandy Point or just come for a day visit.

Wildlife on Dirk Hartog Island

There is plenty of marine life to see in the water and on the shore. Apart from dolphins, sharks, seasnakes, sea turtles pictured above, sea stars were also in abundance.

There are many crabs too, which you can see at night and daytime alike.

While it is easy to spot marine life, animals on land are much harder to find. We were lucky to spot Banded hare-wallaby and Rufous hare-wallaby.

But this guy didn’t need looking for. This Monitor Lizard literally occupied our camping spot at the Homestead :).

And here is us, satisfied with the trip (although annoyed with the flies) and eager to return back to explore the rest of the island.

Blowholes at Point Quobba

An impressive natural phenomenon.

Blowholes at Point Quobba near Carnavon
Blowholes at Point Quobba, near Carnavon

We always used Carnavon as a convenient stopover (and cheap too – the prices of food are the same as you would get in Perth). One of the things I always wanted to see were the blowholes at Point Quobba.

Point Quobba

Blow holes are created by the force of the water gushing through the holes in the rocks. Known also in geology as marine geyser, blowhole is formed as sea caves grow inwards and upwards emerging at the surface. When there is enough pressure (normally during high tides and in windy conditions) the water rushes through the caves and then erupts like a volcano, sometimes up to 20 meters high. It is an awe-inspiring sight to behold.

Blowholes at Point Quobba near Carnavon - an impressive explosion of water
An impressive marine geyser!

It is best to view blowholes at high tides, although take care when approaching blowholes, because it is Mother Nature in its raw and fierce form – the stunning swells can also be dangerous.

Don’t ignore the signs

Here is the view we’ve got in September 2020. It was in the afternoon (presumably, during high tide).

Blowholes at Point Quobba near Carnavon at high tide
Blowholes at high tide

And this is what we saw this in April 2021, in the morning, when it was quiet (probably, low tide).

Blowholes at Point Quobba near Carnavon at low tide
Blowholes at low tide

You can find these blowholes at Point Quobba, 75 km north of Carnavon along Australia’s Coral Coast.