Our journeys

Nullarbor

Nullarbor plain

The Nullarbor Plain stretches across the southern edge of Australia. It starts in Norseman, Western Australia, and ends in Ceduna, South Australia. The Nullarbor spans for over 1200 kilometers. The major highway running across the Nullarbor is the Eyre Highway. It connects Norseman and Ceduna. The Eyre Highway is sealed. It has a number of rest stops and a few roadhouses with basic facilities. There are also attractions along the way.

The name “Nullarbor” means “no trees” in Latin, reflecting the vast, arid landscape.

Western side of Nullarbor

Norseman

Norseman is the gateway to Nullarbor. It marks the beginning of the epic Eyre Highway, if you travel west to east. It is a great place to get information at the Visitor centre and buy food (after returning from east). If you are visiting in summer, you will enjoy in the Olympic size outdoor swimming pool. It was free to use when we travelled in early January 2025. We were returning from Nullarbor and swimming pool in hot weather was a real savior for us.

Norseman visitor centre

90 Mile sign

This is an iconic sign, signifying the beginning the straight road, without any turns or curves for 146 km. Everyone who travels across Nullarbor for the first time stops there to take a compulsory photo. That included us too :).

90 Mile straight sign on the Nullarbor

Balladonia Roadhouse museum

Despite being small, we found it was worthwhile to stop and visit the museum and learn about the history. The main focus of the museum is on Skylab space station. Although reading about European exploration and Afghan cameleers was also interesting. The museum is free to visit. Balladonia is the first fuel stop on Nullarbor after Norsman, traveling east.

Skylab replica in Balladonia museum on the Nullarbor

Eucla

Eucla is the most easterly town in the Western Australia. It lies 11km from the South Australian border

A woman with a child in Eucla on the Nullarbor

Eucla old telegraph station – history buried in the sand

Eucla was once a busy town. Its significance lies in its telegraph station that was built in the 19th century. Thanks to this telegraph station, communication between Western Australia and the east of the country was established. These days, there are only remnants of what once used to be a bustling place. The town itself was eventually abandoned due to rabbits’ infestation. The rabbit plague destroyed dune vegetation which is now causing constant sand shifts. The sand dunes movement is so rapid that the whole town became buried under the sand. Only the telegraph station remained. But even the telegraph station is only partially visible. It will be gone completely in the future. So, we took an opportunity to visit it while we could still see something.

Eventually a new Eucla town was rebuilt 4km away on a higher ground. Eucla old telegraph station is a few kilometres away from Eucla town and easily accessible.

Modern Eucla

Nowadays Eucla is a small settlement that mostly serves the government and border security workers. It is also a major stop for anyone travelling west to east or vice versa. It has a caravan park, motel, restaurant and museum. An interesting fact is that Eucla has its own time zone. It is 45 minutes ahead of Perth, the latter being 2.5 hours behind South Australia. It makes it all quite confusing when you travel. 😊

Different clocks showing different time in Eucla on the Nullarbor

Road trains on the Nullarbor

Australian road trains are huge and long indeed. Especially this one – carrying a hundred of cows (so it looked like). The truck hardly even fits into the picture frame 😊. You will see many road trains when you travel across the Nullarbor.

One of the many road trains on the Nullarbor

Middle of Nullarbor – WA-SA border

The border between Western Australia and South Australia is a must stop if you travel east to west. The reason for that is compulsory quarantine check. You are not allowed to bring fresh fruits and vegetables into the state because of fruit fly disease.

WA border quarantine point near Eucla on the Nullarbor

However, if you travel west to east, you do not need to stop. There is a quarantine stop in South Australia but it is at the end of the Nullarbor at Ceduna. It is worth checking what you can and cannot bring into each state, because the rules are different for each state.

If you travel east to west, make sure you stop at the WA-SA border sign for another photo opportunity. The sign is right after the quarantine point on the WA side.

SA-WA border sign on the Nullarbor

The nail that marks the border – something you might not know!

While the border between other states, e.g. between NSW and Victoria is very fluid and defined by the river, the border between WA and SA is very specific. At least in some places, where there is a road entry. The border on the WA side is marked by a nail! We were privileged to be escorted and shown the exact location of the particular nail. It is on the side of the road, right at the quarantine point. If you are curious, next time you travel across Nullarbor, ask the quarantine personnel to show it to you. The lady worker was very happy to share that information with us.

Eastern side of Nullarbor

Big Kangaroo at the Border Village

Once you cross the border and are on the South Australian side, you will arrive at the Border Village. Here, you can see a giant kangaroo statue. It is another iconic site and so uniquely Australia. The kangaroo, called Rooey, is holding Vegemite 😊. The statue is 5 meters tall.

Big Kangaroo statue at the Border Village on the Nullarbor

Bunda Cliffs

Bunda Cliffs are the best attraction on the Nullarbor, in our opinion. We would be willing to drive across the Nullarbor just to see them. These majestic limestone cliffs are up to 105 meters high. They are literally marking the end of the continent on the southern side, as they drop abruptly in the Southern Ocean. Bunda Cliffs are stretching for over 120 km along the shore of the Great Australian Bight. They are quite fragile and unstable, eroding rapidly.

Bunda cliffs on Nullarbor
Nullarbor cliffs

Camping near Nullarbor cliffs

As much as it seems like really cool to camp at the edge of Nullarbor cliffs, we didn’t do it. It is quite dangerous to camp or even drive too close to the edge of the cliffs. Being constantly eroded, they might collapse at any minute. It is also illegal nowadays for that same reason. Instead, we camped along the Eyre Highway, at one of the free rest stops, approximately 1.5 km from the cliffs. These rest stops have no amenities, although some do have picnic tables though. But it is quiet and peaceful and even occasional road trains didn’t bother us at all.

Camping on the Nullarbor

The best thing was the beautiful sunset that we could view from our camp.

Camping on the Nullarbor

Nullarbor Roadhouse

Nullarbor Roadhouse is a popular rest stop for anyone travelling across the Nullarbor.

We found Nullabor Roadhouse fuel quite reasonable during our visits in December 2024 and January 2025. This is notable because there is no such thing as cheap on Nullarbor. Not only that, Nullarbor Roadhouse is like an attraction in itself. It has unique signs, information boards, describing the history of Nullarbor and the old roadhouse building. We didn’t stay at the caravan park. Neither did we buy any meals at the restaurant. All of this is available there. But we did take showers there (for a small fee), which felt like heaven after days of not washing. Definitely a must stop on the Nullarbor, no matter what your requirements are.

Old Nullarbor roadhouse

Lake MacDonnell

We love pink lakes. But Lake MacDonnell is not just a pink lake. As you drive along the road, this pink lake is on one side. A green-blue lake is on the other side. This contrast is very picturesque. Many people don’t mind the detour when travelling across Nullarbor just to get this photo opportunity. Lake MacDonnell is 15km south of Penong on the way to Point Sinclair in South Australia.

Lake MacDonnell on the Nullarbor

Ceduna – end of Nullarbor

Ceduna marks the end of the Nullarbor. It has a quarantine stop, where you must stop to be checked. All fresh fruits and vegetables (except for a couple of items) must be disposed.

Quarantine point at Ceduna on the Nullarbor

Ceduna is also a place to fill up fuel and grocery. The fresh produce is still expensive there, but at least you can get some variety. There is information centre, different types of accommodation and restaurants. We were happy to find a cafe that served gluten free fish and chips there. After travelling for a few weeks, it was a delight to treat ourselves :).

Family eating fish and chips at Ceduna.

In conclusion

They say that you are not a true Aussie, unless you traveled across Nullarbor. After living in Australia for more than 20 years, we finally travelled across Nullarbor in 2024-2025. We did it twice – travelling eastward and then back westward. Will we do it again? Absolutely! We still have unfinished business and a few places to see on the Nullarbor. We hold dear memories of our trip to NSW and back to WA. No doubt, we’ll do it again.

Family of four on the Nullarbor

Eyre Peninsula

Murphy's Haystacks on the Eyre Peninsula

The Eyre Peninsula is a triangular shaped peninsula in South Australia. It is known for its rugged coastline with many natural attractions, endless beaches, unique wildlife and great seafood.

Western coast of the Eyre Peninsula

Haslam

Haslam is a small coastal town in the western part of the Eyre Peninsula, South Australia. It is located 45km northwest of Streaky Bay, off Flinders Hwy. Established back in 19 century, it was originally a deep sea port and a coastal shipping town. There is an old jetty that was built in 1912. It still functions and serves as a fishing jetty.

Haslam jetty in the Eyre Peninsula

Haslam is a popular place for an overnight stop for those travelling east to west or vice versa. It was a savior for us, as we couldn’t secure any accommodation in Streaky Bay. There is a council-run campground, which costs us only $10 per night. Facilities include picnic tables. Public toilets, dump point and newly build playground with exercise equipment are only 100 meters away.

This is what I saw when arrived late at night at Haslam. It was pitch dark and I was struggling to see anything near the waterfront. The moon aligned with Venus looked beautiful up in the sky. The lights at the end of the jetty were reflected in the water. It was quiet and peaceful.

Streaky Bay

Streaky Bay is a larger coastal town further south from Haslam. It is known for its spectacular coastline with many natural wonders. It is also a prime fishing location. Being one of the largest towns for many hundred kilometers, it is the center for essential services. For us, Streaky Bay was the place to explore nature’s wonders. There are many scenic drives and trails around Streaky Bay. With limited time available, we only covered a small section of what it is there to explore.

Whistling Rocks and blowholes near Streaky Bay on the Eyre Peninsula

Whistling Rocks and Blowholes

Cape Bauer Loop Coastal Drive was our first choice. It is 38km loop drive. First, we visited the Whistling Rocks and the Blowholes. We love blowholes and try to visit them as we come across them during our travels. These Blowholes were formed when vertical fractures in the limestone cliffs become enlarged by erosion over thousands of years. Sometimes these pipes are connected at the base of the cliffs with open air. In that case the waves force the air and sea water through the spaces. This is how the fountains of sea water emerge from the rocks with forceful sounds. The phenomenon is known as blowholes. Sometimes only air comes out. Other times you can see water too.

Yanerbie Sand dunes

Yanerbie Sandhills are part of Westall Way 32km loop drive. It was a fun place to visit for our kids as they were playing with the sand. Visiting sand dunes during sunset was quite magical too for photography.

Yanderbie sand dunes in the Eyre Peninsula

While walking towards Blowholes and Whistling Rock, we saw this Jacky lizard. I love how this little lizard has so many common names. According to wikipedia, it is also known as blood-sucker, stonewalker and tree dragon. No matter how it is called, it is a cute little lizard.

Jacky lizard of the Eyre Peninsula

Venus Bay

Venus Bay is a small tourist and fishing town that lies between Streaky Bay and Elliston. The place is quite picturesque. It has a unique curved jetty, used by marine vehicles, as well as fishermen.

Curved jetty at Venus Bay on the Eyre Peninsula

The beach is calm, thus making it a popular holiday destination.

Beach at Venus Bay on the Eyre Peninsula

Apart from a unique curved jetty another attraction of Venus Bay is Needle Eye lookout. You can see the beautiful coastline of the Great Australian Bight from there.

Needle Eye lookout in Venus Bay on the Eyre Peninsula

Walkers Rock

Walkers Rock campground near Elliston is a usual coastal campground on the Eyre Peninsula. We arrived late at night when it was dark. Only in the morning we had a chance to briefly see what the camp looked like. We were not particularly impressed by the layout. Some sites are more or less private, while others are cramped too close together with no privacy. The worst thing was that there was only 1 toilet (!) for 34 sites. And if you are far away from it, you would need to walk nearly 10 minutes towards it. Easier to drive.

But – this was the place where I was lucky enough to witness real Aurora for the first time. And what a show it was!

Leaving the campground, I saw these Cape Barren Geese.

Murphy’s Haystacks

Murphy’s Haystacks is a unique geological rock formation that attracts a lot of visitors, especially for those who love photography. These wind-eroded granite rocks are over 1500 million old. And what’s in the name? It happens that the rocks got their name from a Scottish agricultural expert. While travelling on day, he saw them from the distance and thought they were haystacks. Being located on Murphy’s property, they became known as Murphy’s Haystacks. But technically they are inselbergs, which means isolated rock hills.

Murphy’s Haystacks are 40km east from Streaky Bay and 2km off the Flinders Hwy.   They are located on private property and a small entry fee applies.

Talia Caves

Another unique natural attraction of the Eyre Peninsula is Talia Caves, which include the Tub and the Woolshed. It is the Woolshed that gets most of the tourists’ attention. We nearly missed it as the name sounded misleading to us. We walked down the steps to the rocks and spent some time marveling at the mighty ocean. Kids were exploring little rock holes with their marine treasures inside.

Then we took pictures outside of the giant cave but didn’t think of entering it.

The slippery slope inside did look slightly dangerous. But braving for the sake of memories and photo opportunity we decided to give it a try. When you look out into the ocean from the cave it feels like looking through a natural window. The window that has been carved by wind and waves, over thousands of years.

The Woolshed at Talia Caves on the Eyre Peninsula

The Tub is further down the track. It is a relatively large crater in the rocks that connects to the ocean via a tunnel.

The Tub at the Talia Caves on the Eyre Peninsula

Talia Caves are 40km north of Elliston.

Central Eyre Peninsula

Kimba

Who doesn’t know where Kimba is? Well, we didn’t know until our trip to eastern states in December 2024. Kimba is an iconic place, in our opinion. Probably, anyone who drove from east to west, or vice versa, knows that. Kimba is a small rural town, but it is significant. It marks halfway between the east and west of Australia. There is even a popular sign there Halfway Across Australia. This is next to an 8-meter-tall statue of a galah. It’s another photo opportunity.

Halfway across Australia sign and big Galah in Kimba on the Eyre Peninsula

There is also a silo art, as well as a nice free campground. We didn’t stay at the campground, as it was still early for us and we had to make more kms. But we heard good reviews about it, so it is on our list for any future travels.

Silo art at Kimba on the Eyre Peninsula

Iron Knob

Iron Knob is the birthplace of Australia’s steel industry. For such a tiny town, it is quite impressive that it has a Visitor Centre. The population is just slightly above 100. It also has a museum. They run tours of the nearby iron ore mine during cooler season.

Unfortunately, the Visitor Centre was closed due to extremely hot weather and then holidays at the end of December. But the town surprised us with great facilities for travellers. These include a free campground, newly installed toilets, showers, and a kitchen area. There is an interesting contrast that you can see in this town. Parts of the town look abandoned, making it almost like a ghost town.

Iron Knob on the Eyre Peninsula

Yet, there are new and clean amenities. The dedicated Visitor Centre has murals on the walls and looked very inviting from the outside. It also has a museum depicting local mining history. The “Aussie” spirit is trying to survive here.

Dunny painting in Iron Knob on the Eyre Peninsula

Kosciuszko National Park

Snowy River in Kosciuszko National Park

Kosciuszko National Park is the biggest national park in New South Wales.  Home to Australia’s highest mountain, Kosciuszko National Park is a stunning place. It offers opportunities for embracing the best that nature has to offer. Mountains, rivers, caves, ski resorts, scenic lookouts – there is something for everyone, during winter and summer alike. Four rivers rise in the mountains – including the Snowy River. With a few areas within the park, you would need weeks to explore it all. We only explored two sections of it – Tumut and Thredbo-Perisher.

Attractions in Kosciuszko National Park

Most attractions in the park are around the mountains and valleys. In winter it is skiing, whilst in summer it is hiking. Just visiting the beautiful valleys and mountain tops is an attraction in itself.

Snowy Mountains Highway in Kosciuszko National Park

Yarrangobilly caves thermal pool

Yarrangobilly caves is a popular attraction in the northern part of Kosciuszko National Park. It is located between between Tumut and Cooma along Snowy Mountains Hwy. We did not visit the cave itself. Instead we cooled ourselves in the thermal pool at the same location. To get to the thermal pool, we had to go down a steep hill for 700 meters. It was harder going up. But the water was quite refreshing. The pool is fed by spring water and the temperature there stays at a constant 27⁰ Celsius. Just what you need on a warm day when you can’t take a normal bath or shower. And it only cost us $4 (charge per vehicle). There are picnic tables, toilets and change rooms. You can have a nice picnic there after your swim.

Mount Kosciuszko

At 2228 meters, Mount Kosciuszko is Australia’s highest mountain. While the climb to the summit is considered a relatively easy trail, you need to be prepared for the mountain. It was about 11 degrees with piercing cold wind as we climbed. It made us feel like it was much colder and the layers of clothes we had were not enough.

Climbing Mount Kosciuszko
A family of four at the Mount Kosciuszko.

As if to confirm that unwillingness to go further, my knees were hurting. The timing was wrong too. We should have started much earlier during the day. The prospect of a long hike back, in case we miss the chair lift was not appealing. So, we decided that climbing up to the lookout was good enough. It was still impressive 2000 meters plus above sea level. We did climb the mountain, after all, just not all the way 😊. Maybe, next time, when we are more prepared for such an experience, we’ll reach the summit. In my experience, we still did it 😊.

The chairlift from Thredbo to the base of the mountain was fun. It felt like peaceful paragliding, according to our younger son.

Family on a chair lift from Thredbo to Mount Kosciuszko in Kos

Campgrounds in Kosciuszko National Park

There are many campgrounds within the national park. They are very similar, in terms of facilities and usually have non-flushing toilets, picnic tables and bbqs. Some have rubbish bins. Sites are usually not marked and you can choose your own site on arrival. They are free but need to be booked in advance. Booking fee of $6 is payable per booking. We stayed at two campgrounds and were pretty impressed with the scenery at both places.

Humes Crossing near Tumut

Humes Crossing campground in in Kosciuszko National Park

Humes Crossing is a very spacious campground on the shores of Blowering Dam in the north of Kosciuszko National Park. The campground is easily accessible via Snowy Mountains Highway. It is 24km south of Tumut Region Visitor Centre.

Humes Crossing campground in Kosciuszko National Park

We spent a couple of nights at Humes Crossing, including the Christmas Day – doing nothing but chilling out. It is a very picturesque place to go for walks. The dam is also a great place for fishing, as well as recreational water activities.

Kangaroos and emus visit Humes Crossing regularly.

Island Bend campground near Thredbo

Island Bend is set among the eucalyptus trees, 1250 meters above sea level, on the banks of Snowy River. It is a true paradise. It was very busy when we camped just before New Year’s Eve. In fact, it was full and we were lucky to book a spot at the last minute. The river zig zags around the campground and you can access it from a few places. Some people go fishing, others kayaking. It is too cold for swimming (for us, at least), with the temperature in the mountains being lower.

Island Bend campground in Kosciuszko National Park

The walks in the mountain forest along the river are amazing.

Snowy River at Humes Crossing campground in in Kosciuszko National Park

Beautiful eucalyptus trees with colourful bark grow in Kosciuszko National Park.

Eucalyptus trees in Kosciuszko National Park

Eucalyptus rubida candlebark and Eucalyptus stellulata black sally (above)

There is lots of birdlife, as well as wallabies to spot.

Crimson Rosella in in Kosciuszko National Park
Flame Robin female in in Kosciuszko National Park
Flame Robin male in in Kosciuszko National Park

Crimson Rosella (above left), Flame Robin female (above middle), Flame Robin male (above right).

To camp in Island Bend, you also need to pay national park entry fee of $17 per vehicle per night. The sites are not clearly marked, and you choose your spot. The campground is easily accessible and hence very popular.

Morning in Kosciuszko National Park

Island Bend campground is in Wilsons Valley, off Guthega Road. It is roughly 1 hour drive from the campground to famous Thredbo – ski resort and base of Mt Kosciuszko. The nearest town Jindabyne is roughly half way to Thredbo.

Fog over Snowy River in in Kosciuszko National Park

Visiting the park

Most of the roads in the national park are sealed and in very good condition. Snowy Mountains Highway connects towns on the eastern side. Alpine Way is on the western side. We visited Kosciuszko National Park in summer and driving was easy. It would be a different story all together in winter.

Driving in Kosciuszko National Park

Snowy Mountains Hwy

Snowy Mountains Hwy is quite pretty. The scenery changes as you drive through the alpine country. From mountain forest, tranquil snow gum woodlands, to grassy high plains. As you drive along, you will see many historic places, magnificent mountain tops and pretty lookouts.  

It is fascinating to keep climbing up and noting the elevation marks along the way.

Even the unusual signs, like those referred to chain fitting or snow plough, were fascinating for us. Of course, it would be like a dreamland in winter but even in summer it looked spectacular to us.

Alpine Way

Alpine Way drive is a scenic section of the Snowy Mountains Hwy. It offers gorgeous mountain views within the Kosciuszko National Park. It connects Jindabyne in the south to Khancoban near the Victorian border. But the drive is not for the faint-hearted or if you are prone to car sickness. The road is narrow, steep and winding (not recommended for towing caravans). The trees are often too close to the road for our comfort. Not once, my heart raced anxiously.

The scenery changes as you drive along 108 km route. You come across mountain forests, rock cliffs and grassy plains. It is not the drive to rush through. In fact, you wouldn’t want to drive fast at those steep and narrow turns. Luckily, there are many rest stops, free campgrounds and beautiful lookouts with magnificent views.

Entry to Kosciuszko National Park

There are several entry points to the park. Depending on the area of the park, as well as the season, the entry fee differs. It was free to enter Tumut region but cost us $17 per vehicle per night in Thredbo-Perisher in summer. It goes up to $29 per vehicle per night during winter season.

Kosciuszko National Park

Taylors Lake

Sunrise over Taylors Lake

Taylors Lake is a popular free camping spot, 20km south of Horsham in Victoria. Locals frequent this place and use it for fishing, especially but not limited to Murray cod.  Various water activities, like jet skiing and speed boating, as well as swimming is another reason for the lake’s popularity.

Camping at Taylors Lake

This man-made off-stream reservoir also supplies water to the region. While other lakes get dry in summer, Taylors Lake often has water to enjoy. It looked quite full when we visited the place end of December 2024.

Aerial view of Taylors Lake

Facilities at Taylors Lake include drop toilets, picnic tables, large skip bin and boat ramp. Dogs, as well as camp fires are permitted. Camping area is quite large, so you will find a spot even during busy times.

We found the place very picturesque. The dead trees, inside the water, dotting the edges of the lake, add an interesting subject. If you are into photography, you will like it. Due to the curves of the lake, you can enjoy both sunset and sunrise there.

Sunset (above left) and sunrise (above right) over Taylors Lake.

You can also see the mountains of the Grampians National Park in the distance (below).

Will we camp at Taylor’s Lake again? Absolutely! And we’ll make sure we fish there too, and hopefully catch something :).

Road leading to Taylors Lake with the Grampians in the distance

Loch lel (Pink Lake)

Child standing on the surface of salt lake Loch lel near Dimboola in Victoria

Loch lel is one of the many pink salt lakes that can be found in Australia. These pink lakes are not permanently pink. The pink colour comes from the algae that secrets red and orange pigments. When the water is hypersaline, the lake gets its beautiful pink colour.

Loch lel is in Victoria, north of Dimboola, on the Western Highway. It is easily accessible and is a nice stop for a lunch or rest break. Facilities include toilets and picnic tables, so you can have your lunch with a nice view.

What pink lakes have you seen? Comment below to share your experiences. We love to see pink lakes as we travel.

Aerial view of Loch lel pink lake in Victoria

The Murray River

People camping at Ulupna Island along the Murray River

The Murray River holds a great significance for the whole of Australia. And understandably so. Murray River is Australia’s longest river. It flows for over 2500km from the Snowy Mountains in NSW to the Southern Ocean in South Australia. It passes through 3 states, spanning New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia.   Almost 2000 km is navigable, making it the third longest navigable river on the planet.

The river is a center of water sports, outdoor adventures, social and tourist activities. It is popular indeed. Murray River is a major source of water and food.

Speed boat on the Murray River

It is also a border between New South Wales and Victoria. It took me a while to get my head around it. Have you tried looking for a border between the two states on the map? I couldn’t find it for some time until I learnt that it is the Murray River that is the border.

Above is one of the many bridges across Murray River, connecting twin towns of two different states. Note, that the border is somewhere in the middle of the bridge. Half of the river belongs to one state and half to the other? 😊

Towns along the Murray River

Many towns are built along the river. There are a few twin towns that are located together, split by the river and thus belong to different states. We found this very amusing.

Echuca

Echuca is a vibrant town, full of history and is worth exploring. It is one of the largest towns along the Murray River. We spent a couple of hours there but could have easily stayed a few days. Horse riding, paddlesteam boats, interactive science museum, local produce – the list of attractions goes on. Echuca is in Victoria and its twin town, Moana is on the NSW side. It is smaller than Echuca and has its own unique feel.

You will find a British flag in the old tourist part of Echuca. Make sure you visit the Port of Echuca Museum. It is near the Visitor Centre. There you can learn about the history of the town. As it turns out, Henry Hopwood, a convict from Tasmania established the town of Echuca. He came originally from England.

Camping along the Murray River

There are many free camping spots along the Murray River on both sides. They are very much loved by the locals. You can see many people camping there, fishing or just playing water sports. Speed boating is very popular. The camping spots have no amenities and are not clearly designated but camping is permitted. Of course, you would need to be self-sufficient to leave no trace.

Ulupna Island along the Murray River

Ulupna Island

Ulupna Island is 11km north of Strathmerton, off the Murray Valley Highway. Its Red River Gum forest is known for koalas, although, unfortunately, we haven’t seen any when we camped. There are many camping spots along the river at Ulupna Island. Most of them are around the beaches, which, of course, are very popular. We camped on Victorian side.

Murray River Reserve Richardson Bend

Murray River Reserve Richardson Bend is another nice free bush campground we stayed at. It is near Barnawartha North on the Victorian side and is roughly 30 minutes drive from Albury in NSW. Unlike Ulupna Island, which was a national park, you can take your pet with you to Richardson Bend. There is lots of birds, cicadas and cows there. While the area is grassy along the river, cows leave too many cow pats. You need to look for a clearing without them 😊.

We were very fascinated with the mighty Murray River and that’s why we wrote this blog to share our experiences. Comment below, if you have something to share.

Grand Canyon Track

Children walking under the waterfall along Grand Canyon Track

Grand Canyon track is a popular and very beautiful hiking trail in the Blue Mountains National Park. The track is more than 100 years old. It follows the canyon down through the wet green rain forest, under rock overhangs and waterfalls. You can see many tall and dense trees with twisted roots.

Children among tall dense trees along Grand Canyon Track
Overhanging rocks and waterfall along Grand Canyon Track in the Blue Mountains

The track is well maintained with beautiful stepping steps which in combination with moss and ferns create an appealing picture. There is even a small but completely dark cave that you would need to go through.

Stepping stones at Grand Canyon Track
Cave at Grand Canyon Track

The Grand Canyon track is 6km long loop trail and it takes about 4 hours to finish. It is challenging because you must navigate many steps. You climb down to the floor of the canyon and then back up. It is definitely not for those with knee problems. But many people hike this track. It is definitely a worth while experience and one of the best places in the Blue Mountains.

How to get to Grand Canyon Track

This hiking track is in Blackheath. It is part of the Blue Mountains National Park. The park is roughly 2 hours drive west of Sydney, NSW. You can start the track from the Evans Lookout. This is part of the track. Alternatively, you can start from the Grand Canyon car park.

Evans Lookout at Grand Canyon Track, Blue Mountains National Park, NSW

Evans Lookout (above)

Wind-eroded cave, Blackheath

Wind eroded cave is an interesting and beautiful geological formation in Blackheath area of the Blue Mountains National Park. Not sure why it is called a cave though. It is a massive overhanging cliff with a small cave in front of it. Nevertheless, this wind carved cave would delight children and adults alike. Our kids definitely had a great time exploring it.

Wind-eroded cave in Blackheath, Blue Mountains, NSW

You can easily access the wind-eroded cave by a 2WD. It is a short drive from Blackheath town via Hat Hill Road. It takes only a minutes to walk towards it from the car park.

Nearby is a Perrys Lookdown, which has excellent and very new (in 2024) picnic facilities.

Perrys Lookdown near wind-eroded cave in Blackheath, Blue Mountains

While it was not a wildflower season, we managed to see some of these wildflowers blooming there. Below are some of the examples.

Firstly, it is Lambertia formosa. Common name for Lambertia formosa is mountain devil. It is a pretty plant that is easy to notice due to its bright red coloured petals. Looking closer you can see how the ends of the petals curl. This plant occurs naturally only in NSW.

Lambertia formosa growing near wind-eroded cave in Blackheath

Lambertia formosa (above)

Secondly, it is Flannel flower, Actinotus helianthin. It is a delicate and very pretty flower with soft wool like feel. The flowers are mostly white. But if you look closer, you can see greenish at the end of the petals an middle of the flower. Flannel flower is native to the areas around Sydney. We found a few of these flowers in Blackheath area of the Blue Mountains National Park.

Flannel flower growing near wind-eroded cave in Blackheath

Flannel flower (above)

Thirdly, it is Petrophile pulchella, commonly known as conesticks. It is a shrub with cream-yellow coloured flowers. It is restricted to eastern parts of Australia.

Petrophile pulchella growing near wind-eroded cave in Blackheath

Dunphys campground

Kangaroos at Dunphys campground

Dunphys campground is a remote and scenic campground in Megalong Valley in Southern Blue Mountains area in New South Wales.

During our trip to Sydney over Christmas 2024, we took time to explore a little of NSW. Blue Mountains was one of the items on the list and we actually wanted to camp there. So, we chose to stay at Dunphys campground.

Low lying clouds over Megalong Valley with Dunphys campground

Facilities at Dunphys campground

There are 15 campsites scattered around, none are marked. You would need to carry your camping equipment if you want a nice scenic spot, e.g. with a mountain view. Alternatively, if you have a roof top tent or a trailer, you can camp in the open grass area. This area serves like a car park. We placed our tents just outside this marked parking area. This way, we easily accessed our vehicle. It has a kitchen and everything else we needed.

People camping at Dunphys campground
Open grassed area at Dunphys campground

There are picnic tables, BBQ, and a non-flushing toilet. A water tank with non-treated water is available, but it didn’t really have any water at the time we camped.

People having lunch at Dunphys campground
Two tents and a child sitting at the table at Dunphys camgpround

Access to the campground is via a private property, which has a few gates to go through.

Road to Dunpbys campground

Thing to do

There are a few moderate to hard difficulty walking trails of various length around the campground. Katoomba with its attractions, like The Three Sisters and other lookouts is also not far away.

Nature lovers would delight in this place! There are many eastern grey kangaroos that frequent the campground daily. We’ve seen Lace monitor and many birds, including pretty Superb Fairy-wrens.

Eastern grey kangaroos (above) are different to western grey kangaroos that we have in Western Australia. They were quite friendly too :).

Lace monitor (above) or tree goanna is one of Australia’s largest lizards. It grows up to 2 meters in length and is found in eastern parts of Australia.

Superb Fairy-wren female (above left) and Superb Fairy-wren male (above right) restricted to eastern states of Australia.

Location and access

Dunphys campground is in Megalong Valley, in the Southern Blue Mountains area of Blue Mountains National Park in NSW. It is approximately 40 minutes drive from the nearest town Katoomba. There is a mixture of sealed and unsealed roads to get to campground. The last 5km or so of the road leading to Dunphys campground is very winding, steep, with sharp turns.

The towering eucalyptus trees overhang the road, too close for our comfort. We feared not for nothing. On the first night, travelling back to the campground, we actually got stuck on that road. It turned out that a tree fell and blocked the road. Locals told us it happens a lot. So, even though, the road is considered 2WD accessible, we do not recommend towing a caravan there.

The best thing about this campground (apart from awesome scenery) is that there is no entry fee to the national park and there is no camping fees either. Sites require booking though and there is $6 booking fee. Coming from WA where there are not many places that are free, we found camping in NSW so affordable for us!

The Three Sisters

The Three Sisters in the Blue Mountains

The Three Sisters is an iconic and one of the most popular attractions in the Blue Mountains in New South Wales. It is an interesting geological formation, that has been weather carved over millions of years. The three rock pillars over 900 meters high each stand close together, yet away from the main cliff wall. They stand out in their beauty and uniqueness against the distant mountains of the Jamison Valley.

It is interesting to watch the Three Sisters at different times of the day. You can see their changing colours as the sun moves over them in the sky. They look particularly impressive at sunset.

Location of the Three Sisters

You can see The Three Sisters from a few different locations. However, they are best viewed from Echo Point lookout, near Katoomba. Echo Point is only about 5 minutes drive from Katoomba.

Prince Henry Cliff walk

Echo Point with the Three Sisters is along Prince Henry Cliff walk, which is 7km long, one way. The walk is Level 3, which is moderate difficulty. There are many lookouts along the way. We have only covered part of this walk and viewed the best of what it has to offer.

Katoomba Falls

You can see the falls from Katoomba Falls lookout. The Skyway cable car also passes there. Consequently, it makes an interesting object for your photographs.

Katoomba Falls

Katoomba Cascades

Katoomba Cascades are also along the Prince Henry Cliff walk. They are hidden below. You can spend some time there watching the water cascading down the rock and flowing into the stream.

There is a lot more to see in the Blue Mountains. You need a few days to explore this beautiful region.

How to get to the Three Sisters

The Three Sisters is roughly 100km west of Sydney. It can be reached via motorway or public transport. There is no entry fee to the majority of the park. Although some places, like popular Echo Point, requires parking fees.

In conclusion, I would add that the Three Sisters is a must to see attraction. Firstly, it is so unique and iconic. Secondly, it’s immensely beautiful.