West MacDonnell National Park

West MacDonnell National Park

West MacDonnell National Park stretches 161km west of Alice Springs in Northern Territory. It is famous for its spectacular gorges, chasms and permanent water holes, offering numerous opportunities for hiking and camping. The park is part of the Red Centre, and as such is often visited together with Kings Canyon and Uluru. Driving through the West MacDonnell Ranges is a sightseeing by itself. Those ancient red colour rippled ranges look quite picturesque. Presently, the park is also known as Tjoritja.

Tyler’s Pass

Our journey (in July 2025) began at Tyler’s Pass, perched at the western edge of the West MacDonnell National Park. This elevated rest area offers sweeping 360-degree views of the surrounding landscape—including the striking, eroded rim of Tnorala (Gosses Bluff), a dramatic remnant of an ancient impact crater.

Tyler's Pass in West MacDonnell National Park

Redbank Gorge campground

West MacDonnell National Park offers a variety of camping options, and we chose to stay at Redbank Gorge, which is on the western side. Access is via a 5 km unsealed dirt road off the sealed Namatjira Drive. Redbank Gorge has two campgrounds: Woodland Campground, which is suitable for all vehicle types, and Ridgetop Campground, which is more suited for tents and swags.

We stayed at Woodland Campground and really enjoyed it. It’s relatively small, offering a sense of privacy and quiet. Facilities include toilets, BBQs, picnic tables, and campfire pits. There are no rubbish bins and you cannot bring your dog there.

The campground is very reasonably priced—especially compared to WA rates. We paid $25 per night for a family of four. (in 2025). Note that park entry fee also applies.

Redbank Gorge campground in West MacDonnell National Park

Redbank Gorge

The gorge itself is located 1.8 km from Woodland Campground, making for a short drive to explore its stunning features. The Redbank Gorge walk is a 2km return trail of moderate difficulty. Beginning at the car park, it descends gently to a dry, sandy creek bed. The path winds through rocky terrain, flanked by white ghost gums and framed by towering red cliffs—leading to a tranquil waterhole. It is serene and peaceful.

Redbank Gorge in West MacDonnell National Park.

A ghost gum glowing white against ancient red rock and soft spinifex grass at Redbank Gorge. It is quiet, mysterious, unforgettable. There’s something haunting and sacred in the stillness of the outback.

This is the view of Mt Sonder’s southern side, from Redbank Gorge.

Finke 2 Mile Bush Camp

Just below the Mt Sonder Lookout, nestled along the banks of the Finke River, lies Finke 2 Mile Bush Camp—a rustic, no-facilities site for self-sufficient travellers. What it lacks in amenities, it makes up for in serenity and awesome views.

Finke 2 Mile bush camp at West MacDonnell National Park

Campers can choose any spot along a 3km stretch of riverbank, with shady trees and pebbled edges perfect for a quiet stay. It’s 4WD-access only, and you need to book online before arrival. Camping fees apply, and there’s no mobile reception—so plan ahead.

We didn’t stay this time, but made a note: this peaceful riverside camp is one to consider for future trips, especially if you’re seeking solitude beneath the ranges.

Ormiston Gorge

In our opinion, this is perhaps the most picturesque of all the places that we visited in the Red Centre. The gorge’s striking combination of red, textured rock and white, powdery ghost gums reflected in the waterhole made it truly unforgettable. When the sun hits the gorge just right, it creates a dramatic contrast—shadowed foregrounds giving way to sunlit cliffs in the distance.

Ormiston Gorge in West MacDonnell National Park

We took the Ghost Gum Walk up to the lookout, then followed the trail along the edge of the gorge and down to the waterhole. At that point, the only way forward was across the icy waterhole, which sees so little sun it never really warms up. So, with teeth clenched, boots in hand, and pants rolled up, off we went. Initially our two sons tried to build a bridge across, but eventually gave up and had to step into the freezing water too. Shortly after the initial numbing of our feet wore off, it actually felt invigorating—like a cold plunge for the soul. And after a few days without a shower, a foot wash was a welcome bonus.

The views continued to amaze and delight as we made our way back to the car park. Though there was one more section where you would either need to swim or get wet. We chose differently. Following our kids’ lead, we managed to climb up and over a rock. It was easy for them, of course, but they had to help us down the other side. 😊

It was quite the adventure—and absolutely worth it.

A family of 4 at Ormiston Gorge in West MacDonnell National Park

Spinifex pigeons are common at Ormiston Gorge. You can see many of them at the car park. It is probably the most beautiful pigeon I’ve seen.

Spinifex pigeon at West MacDonnell National Park

Ochre Pits

Another attraction in the West MacDonnell National Park is colourful ochre pits. The rocky outcrops where they occur, look like a layered cake with white, yellow, orange, red and brown colours. Since ochre is still mined and used by Aboriginal people, it is considered a sacred site. With this in mind, please look but do not touch.

Ochre Pits in the West MacDonnell National Park

A gentle 300m walk leads to the viewing platform, with the option to wander further along the dry creek bed. Facilities include an info shelter and toilets at the car park. Easy access off the main road.

Ellery Creek Big Hole

Ellery Creek Big Hole is a spectacular permanent waterhole carved into the gorge by Ellery Creek, nestled in West MacDonnell National Park. It’s a beautiful spot for swimming—though we skipped that part. There’s a picnic area and a paid campground just steps from the waterhole, with toilets and BBQs for a comfortable stay.

Ellery Creek Big Hole in the West MacDonnell National Park

Simpsons Gap

The closest to Alice Springs attraction in the West MacDonnell National Park is Simpsons Gap. As the name suggests, it is a gap between two rocks, with a permanent waterhole, which is home to including the black-footed-rock wallaby. We haven’t seen the wallaby, as they normally come out at dawn and dusk and we were there in the middle of the day. The Simpsons Gap is a very beautiful place and offers opportunity to admire the ancient landscape dotted by white ghost gums.

Simspons Gap in West MacDonnell National Park

There are excellent facilities at Simpsons Gap, which include toilets, drinking water, bbqs, information shelter, mobile phone boost station. Simpsons Gap is easily accessible via sealed road.

Mereenie Loop

A vehicle with a small caravan stopped on the side of Meerenie Loop

The Mereenie Loop is an unsealed section of the Red Centre that connects Kings Canyon and the West MacDonnell National Park. It is the shortest route between this two places but it is also an adventure drive by itself.

What is the road like?

At the time of writing (2025) it is unsealed road, which is recommended for 4WD only. It took us about 5 hours to travel 155km due to corrugation, but we stopped a few times. Technically it is possible to use 2WD there if you travel slowly.

The scenery at the Mereenie Loop is quite interesting and unique. We were lucky to see wild brumbies, as well as camels.

You can see some wildflowers there too.

It is a great outback experience for anyone with a sense of adventure and the right vehicle. We enjoyed the remoteness and quietness of this route.

It is not a free drive

Mereenie Loop Road passes through the Aboriginal land, so the permit to travel is required. We obtained ours for $6.50 at Kings Canyon Resort while paying for the fuel there. There are no facilities at all and no camping is allowed along this route.

Ginty’s Lookout – the only camping place on Mereenie Loop

Located roughly 40km north of Kings Canyon is Ginty’s Lookout. It is a beautiful place to stop when starting your journey on the Mereenie Loop in the Red Centre, NT. From the lookout you can see the canyon and the diverse landscape. This is 24-hour rest stop with fire pits but no other facilities. This is the only place where you can camp while travelling on the Mereenie Loop. It would be a great place to watch the sun go down but our time at Ginty’s Lookout was short so we just admired the views for a while before hitting the road.

Ginty's Lookout on Meerenie Loop drive

Kings Canyon

Kings Canyon in the Northern Territory

Kings Canyon is an iconic landmark of the Red Centre in the Northern Territory. It is located 300km north from Uluru or 360km west from Alice Springs via Mereenie Loop. It is part of Watarrka National Park.

Kings Canyon Rim Walk

The best way to appreciate the unique beauty of the canyon is to take Kings Canyon Rim Walk, 6km loop walk. It takes about 4 hours to complete. The walk starts with a steep climb to the top of the canyon but it gets easier as you reach the plateau. We found the most impressive part of the canyon was the ancient red wall soaring 100 meters above the Kings Creek to an amazing landscape of bee hive-shaped rocky domes.

Kings Canyon Rim Walk

The bee hive domes were quite spectacular.

Bee hived domes at Kings Canyon

These ripples are the evidence that millions of years ago there were shallow lakes there.

Emergency supplies at Watarrka National Park

What surprised us at Watarrka National Park (Kings Canyon) were a number of first aid points together with emergency satellite phones along the Kings Canyon Rim Walk. We actually had to use one of them when our older son got sick after filling in his water bottle with water provided at the park entry and drinking it. So we opened one of the boxes and took a bottle of water, after filling in the papers (discarding his water which didn’t agree with him). It is a great idea to provide these emergency supplies – something we have not seen before.

Unfortunately for us, after we shared our experience on social media, we were accused of “stealing” precious emergency supplies. The post both on Tiktok and Facebook went viral. But there was no glory in that. The vast majority of people who commented criticized us, providing negative comments, some injected with hatred, bulling and racist references. Internet can be very unforgiving, unfortunately.

That was another interesting thing we during our hike. A gate that separates two walking trails. Still not quite sure why it is needed there :).

Where to stay close by

You have an option to either stay at Kings Creek Station, which is further away from the canyon but provides a more unique rustic experience. Or you can choose convenience and stay at nearby Kings Canyon Discovery Resort. We chose the former and were quite happy with the choice. It was reasonably priced, provided free wifi, free laundry (now – these two were a really great bonus!) and nice walks along the property.

Uluru (Ayers Rock)

Family oif 4 in front of Uluru

Uluru is the most iconic and worldwide recognized Australian landmark. This makes Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park a very popular place all year round. It is literally flooded with international tourists, as well as interstate travelers. We’ve been planning (and postponing) this trip for 5 years. And finally in July 2025 it happened. We travelled to Uluru from Perth via The Great Central Road (which was an interesting experience). Now we can put a tick on our bucket list and forget it about this trip. We certainly did appreciate the beauty of the famous rock. Its rich Aboriginal culture and significance impressed us. However, we were disappointed with many rules and regulations. The commercial aspects of this remarkably beautiful place also let us down.

Photography rules and regulations

Visitors should know that Uluru is a sacred Aboriginal site. Therefore, there are strict restrictions on photography. Some parts of the rock are out of reach, while at others photography is prohibited. You can generally photograph parts of the rock. However, you are not allowed to publicly share the pictures. You must buy a special media permit.

We are not running this blog for profit. Therefore, it was not sustainable for us to buy a permit ($20 per day). This is in addition to the entry fee ($38 per person, valid for 3 days).

Sunrise and sunset over Uluru

Seeing the rock illuminated with light during sunrise is advertised as one of the highlights of any trip to Uluru. Sunset is another popular time to visit the rock So, of course, it was on our list too. We did go to see the sunrise over Uluru at sunrise viewing platform. We had to get up at 5am (in July) to secure the parking. Then we queued at the entrance to the park. Then, we joined the crowds at the viewing platform. There were many people there – bus loads of tourists plus many more arriving by cars.

At 8am, when the sun rose, everyone left. We were the only ones in the car park, having our breakfast. Looking at Uluru, we realized that it appeared so much nicer now. It was more beautiful than at those early hours of the morning. We had to share a spot with crowds of people to get a glimpse of the famous rock then. So, if you want good pictures, get there just after sunrise, when all the tour buses are leaving. You will have a lot of space and much nicer colours of the rock.

Uluru with desert oak and soft spinifex grass

Uluru or Ayers Rock?

It is a controversial question. These days, since the times of reconciliation, more and more names of places are changed to Aboriginal names. Ayers Rock became Uluru in 1993 to show respect to the original owners of the land. To be more correct, this place has officially dual name – Uluru/Ayers Rock (sometimes written the other way round). To the new generations and migrants, it is mostly known as Uluru. The older generations prefer to use the name Ayers Rock. They sometimes get too emotional about “incorrect” naming of the rock. We found that out after posting our pictures referring to the rock as Uluru only.

The Great Central Road

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