Gawler Ranges National Park in South Australia is best known for its dramatic Organ Pipes—towering rhyolite rock formations sculpted by volcanic eruptions over 1.5 billion years ago. These ancient pillars were the reason we chose to camp in the park, even in the depths of winter.
We visited in July, a quiet and rain-soaked time of year. After entering the park from the east, we travelled westward, passing several empty campgrounds before arriving at Yandinga, where we had booked two nights. Along the way, we saw only one other vehicle, likely on its way out. It felt as though we had the entire park to ourselves.
The solitude was both peaceful and eerie. With heavy rain and grey skies, we spent our time watching puddles form around our caravan, chatting with the resident grey butcherbirds, and checking the weather forecast more often than usual. Despite the conditions, we stayed—drawn by the quiet and the promise of ancient landscapes.
Camping in Gawler Ranges is very affordable compared to Western Australia: just $22 per family per night, with park entry fees waived for campers. Facilities are basic (toilet only), campfires are permitted, and dogs are not allowed.
The Organ Pipes—Almost
Our main goal was to see the Organ Pipes, but the 4WD track leading there was flooded and impassable. With no one else around, we didn’t want to risk getting stuck.
Fortunately, we discovered smaller but similar rock formations just 1 km from our campground. We managed two short walks to Yandinga Falls before the rain returned.
Beyond the Organ Pipes: Exploring Gawler Ranges National Park
While the Organ Pipes are the park’s most iconic feature, Gawler Ranges National Park offers other fascinating glimpses into the region’s pastoral history.
Shearer’s Quarters and Shed
These historic buildings are dotted with information boards that share stories of the area’s shearing past. It’s a quiet, evocative stop that brings the outback’s working heritage to life.
Old Paney Homestead
Step into the past at this beautifully preserved homestead, now functioning like a walk-in museum. Visitors are free to explore the rooms and read the displays, which transport you back to the early days of settlement in the region.
Together, these sites offer a deeper connection to the land—not just its geological wonders, but the human stories etched into its history.
Wildlife Encounters in Gawler Ranges National Park
One of the joys of visiting Gawler Ranges National Park is the abundance of wildlife. Kangaroos are everywhere—so much so that driving requires extra caution. More than once, they bounded across the track right in front of our bonnet. Thankfully, we kept our speed low and avoided any close calls. Raptors were soaring high up in the sky. They too kept their distance, making it challenging to take a proper photo.
At Yandinga campground, the resident grey butcherbirds became our companions. Friendly and curious, they entertained us throughout our stay.
On the way to the Organ Pipes, we came across a herd of emus. Our kids, with their playful imagination, nicknamed them “negative knees”—a reference to the way emus’ knees bend backwards compared to ours. It was one of those delightful family moments that made the trip even more memorable.
Getting There
We entered the park from the north via Lake Gairdner National Park, following a dirt road in reasonable condition for the outback—though it becomes muddy when wet. After exploring the park, we exited in the south, rejoining the Eyre Highway at Minnipa.
From Coober Pedy in South Australia, we chose a shorter yet more challenging route back to Western Australia, passing through Lake Gairdner—a destination we were eager to explore. Lake Gairdner National Park lies north of the Gawler Ranges, in a truly remote corner of the outback. The unsealed gravel and sandy tracks wind through private properties, and during our journey in July we encountered only a couple of vehicles, likely belonging to local farmers.
Remoteness doesn’t intimidate us; in fact, it draws us in. We love places where silence reigns, where we can pause at will to absorb the sounds—or the absence of them—and feel deeply connected to nature.
The landscape enchanted us: red sand hills crowned with spinifex, kangaroos bouncing across the horizon. Even as the sky shifted from bright blue to darker tones, we appreciated the scenery. Each moment felt precious, and we savoured it fully.
The park’s main feature is Lake Gairdner, Australia’s third-largest salt lake. Other lakes include Lake Everard and Lake Harris, and they are all difficult to access. Our drone became our closest companion here, capturing breathtaking views and bringing back images that revealed the stark beauty of this isolated landscape.
Lake Everard (above)
Camping at Lake Gairdner NP
While travelling through Lake Gairdner National Park, we planned to stay at the free Waltumba Tank campground. However, as night fell, we couldn’t find any signs of the site after a long day on the road. Instead, we stopped at a clearing just off the track.
By morning, we realised we were not far from Lake Gairdner itself. Rising early, we caught the sunrise – that perfect hour when the world is hushed, and the day stretches ahead with promise.
The lake shimmered in the first light, its silver surface framed by the deep red earth and the vast outback horizon. The place where we had camped seemed transformed, serene and timeless.
Pondanna Ruins
As it turned out, we camped near Pondanna Ruins—historic structures in the Gawler Ranges of South Australia, close to the southern edge of Lake Gairdner. The site preserves the foundations of an 1880s shearing shed, cookhouse, and workers’ quarters.
It was fascinating to see the ruins, especially at sunrise, when the light revealed striking orange tones across the stonework. Looking down into a pit several metres deep was unsettling, with the thought lingering that escape would be impossible if someone were to fall in by accident.
Astrophotography at Lake Gairdner
The night we spent at Lake Gairdner National Park was truly magical. The sky was perfectly clear, moonless, and alive with countless stars. The Milky Way rose like a luminous river, stretching upward into infinity.
I set out toward the Pondanna ruins to take some photos, beginning with astrophotography near a lone tree halfway along the path. The silence of the night made me hesitant to continue alone, so I returned to camp and asked our older son, Ariel, to join me. Together we ventured to the ruins, sharing a special mother–son moment under the vast sky.
We were lucky enough to witness a shooting star that lingered for several seconds, a breathtaking sight. By then my camera was already packed away, but I didn’t mind—the astro shots I captured of the ruins, and the memory of that night, are treasures in themselves.
Old and modern way of travelling at Lake Gairdner
After leaving our camp at Lake Gairdner, we made our way toward the Gawler Ranges. Along the road, we came across a weathered wooden wagon and stopped to take a closer look. Standing before it, we were reminded of how different—and far more challenging—travel must have been in the past compared to the comfort and convenience we enjoy today.
In conclusion
There is no entry fee to Lake Gairdner NP. It is a remote area, with no facilities. We found the dirt road generally in a good condition. However, it might be impassable when it is wet.
Coober Pedy is the most unusual town in Australia. Its defining feature is that many of the houses are underground, making it one of the most unique communities in the world.
The town is also renowned as the Opal Capital of the World, where some of the largest and most spectacular opals continue to be mined in great quantities. As you approach Coober Pedy, the landscape itself tells the story: scattered machinery, especially blowers, and countless small hills formed by mining operations create a distinctive, almost otherworldly scene.
Opal hunting—known locally as noodling—remains a popular pastime. While once a serious pursuit, today it is largely a tourist attraction and a source of fun, especially for children. The opals found here vary enormously in shape, size, quality, and price, adding to the fascination.
Although Coober Pedy might not be beautiful in the traditional sense, it more than compensates with its attractions. The town has become a thriving tourist destination, with museums, galleries, and shops showcasing its mining heritage. In fact, nearly every second building is dedicated to opals in some form.
The name itself reflects its unusual character: Coober Pedy translates to “White Man in a Hole.”
Riba’s Campground – Coober Pedy’s only underground campsite
During our stay in Coober Pedy this July, we chose Riba’s campground—the town’s only underground campsite—for a unique experience. Pulling a caravan, however, made underground camping impractical. The subterranean area is designed for tents, which must be carried inside along with all belongings. Since our kitchen is attached to the vehicle, we had to cook and eat outside regardless.
Fortunately, Riba’s also offers above-ground sites, which turned out to be more affordable. Still, we couldn’t resist peeking into the underground section. Had we been traveling with tents, we would have seriously considered it—the constant, comfortable temperature below ground is a welcome contrast to the chilly winter nights outside.
The campground host also runs mining tours, which are are informative but not particularly engaging for young children. While our boys are older, our younger son is very energetic and would have quickly grown restless without something hands-on. Luckily, Coober Pedy offers plenty of other tours to keep families entertained.
Tom’s Opal Mine Tour – A Coober Pedy Highlight
To keep the kids entertained while learning something practical about opal mining, we booked Tom’s Opal Mine Tour in Coober Pedy. It did not disappoint. The tour was engaging and informative, with plenty of detail about mining techniques and noodling. While the children had to be patient during the explanations, their excitement grew once they had a chance to try things for themselves.
They had the chance to search for opals and then trade their finds back to the mine’s owner. The exchange was sweets or pocket money—a highlight for our younger son. Another hands-on moment came during a live demonstration. The kids helped shovel sand into the Blower, giving them a taste of the physical side of mining.
A delightful surprise awaited us at the end: complimentary tea served with scones, jam, and cream at the café. The hospitality extended to catering for allergies and dietary requirements, which was especially appreciated by our family.
Old Timers Mine Museum
Another highlight of our stay in Coober Pedy was visiting the Old Timers Mine Museum, a hand-dug opal mine dating back to 1916 that has been carefully preserved as a museum.
Visitors can embark on a self-guided underground tour, moving at their own pace through the authentic tunnels and chambers. Along the way, you’ll see natural seams of opal embedded in the rock and gain fascinating insights into both the mining process and the daily lives of the miners who once worked here.
The experience is not only educational but also genuinely fun, offering a rare chance to step back in time and feel the atmosphere of an early opal mine. And of course, the visit wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the gift shop, where opals and souvenirs are available for purchase.
Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park – out of this world experience
Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park lies just 35 km from Coober Pedy and is celebrated for its striking landscapes and rich geological heritage. With its surreal scenery, the park feels like a world apart—so much so that it has served as the backdrop for several films.
The most magical time to visit is at sunset, when the shifting light paints the hills in breathtaking colours.
We stayed even when the sun went down, waiting for the sky to illuminate with stars and Milky Way.
Coober Pedy, located in South Australia, lies roughly halfway between Alice Springs and Adelaide along the Stuart Highway. Set within a hot, arid desert, the town’s extreme climate explains why so many residents choose to live in underground homes.
The Nullarbor Plain stretches across the southern edge of Australia. It starts in Norseman, Western Australia, and ends in Ceduna, South Australia. The Nullarbor spans for over 1200 kilometers. The major highway running across the Nullarbor is the Eyre Highway. It connects Norseman and Ceduna. The Eyre Highway is sealed. It has a number of rest stops and a few roadhouses with basic facilities. There are also attractions along the way.
The name “Nullarbor” means “no trees” in Latin, reflecting the vast, arid landscape.
The Nullarbor – is it really treeless?
After travelling across the Nullarbor 3 times, I finally figured this out. Nullarbor means treeless plain. However, when you travel across the Nullarbor route you will find that not the whole route is treeless, particularly in WA. So, the Nullarbor refers both to the iconic Nullarbor Road or route from Norseman in WA to Ceduna in SA (it is also Eyre Highway). It runs for 1200km. But more specifically Nullarbor is the Nullarbor plain, which is indeed treeless. This treeless plain stretches for 200km around the Nullarbor Roadhouse in SA. It is marked on the road from both ends. That’s why when you travel from WA you don’t see the treeless plain until many kms ahead and until you cross the border.
Western side of Nullarbor
Norseman
Norseman is the gateway to Nullarbor. It marks the beginning of the epic Eyre Highway, if you travel west to east. It is a great place to get information at the Visitor centre and buy food (after returning from east). If you are visiting in summer, you will enjoy in the Olympic size outdoor swimming pool. It was free to use when we travelled in early January 2025. We were returning from Nullarbor and swimming pool in hot weather was a real savior for us.
90 Mile sign
This is an iconic sign, signifying the beginning the straight road, without any turns or curves for 146 km. Everyone who travels across Nullarbor for the first time stops there to take a compulsory photo. That included us too :).
Balladonia Roadhouse museum
Despite being small, we found it was worthwhile to stop and visit the museum and learn about the history. The main focus of the museum is on Skylab space station. Although reading about European exploration and Afghan cameleers was also interesting. The museum is free to visit. Balladonia is the first fuel stop on Nullarbor after Norsman, traveling east.
Eucla
Eucla is the most easterly town in the Western Australia. It lies 11km from the South Australian border
Eucla old telegraph station – history buried in the sand
Eucla was once a busy town. Its significance lies in its telegraph station that was built in the 19th century. Thanks to this telegraph station, communication between Western Australia and the east of the country was established. These days, there are only remnants of what once used to be a bustling place. The town itself was eventually abandoned due to rabbits’ infestation. The rabbit plague destroyed dune vegetation which is now causing constant sand shifts. The sand dunes movement is so rapid that the whole town became buried under the sand. Only the telegraph station remained. But even the telegraph station is only partially visible. It will be gone completely in the future. So, we took an opportunity to visit it while we could still see something.
Eventually a new Eucla town was rebuilt 4km away on a higher ground. Eucla old telegraph station is a few kilometres away from Eucla town and easily accessible.
Modern Eucla
Nowadays Eucla is a small settlement that mostly serves the government and border security workers. It is also a major stop for anyone travelling west to east or vice versa. It has a caravan park, motel, restaurant and museum. An interesting fact is that Eucla has its own time zone. It is 45 minutes ahead of Perth, the latter being 2.5 hours behind South Australia. It makes it all quite confusing when you travel. 😊
Road trains on the Nullarbor
Australian road trains are huge and long indeed. Especially this one – carrying a hundred of cows (so it looked like). The truck hardly even fits into the picture frame 😊. You will see many road trains when you travel across the Nullarbor.
Middle of Nullarbor – WA-SA border
The border between Western Australia and South Australia is a must stop if you travel east to west. The reason for that is compulsory quarantine check. You are not allowed to bring fresh fruits and vegetables into the state because of fruit fly disease.
However, if you travel west to east, you do not need to stop. There is a quarantine stop in South Australia but it is at the end of the Nullarbor at Ceduna. It is worth checking what you can and cannot bring into each state, because the rules are different for each state.
If you travel east to west, make sure you stop at the WA-SA border sign for another photo opportunity. The sign is right after the quarantine point on the WA side.
The nail that marks the border – something you might not know!
While the border between other states, e.g. between NSW and Victoria is very fluid and defined by the river, the border between WA and SA is very specific. At least in some places, where there is a road entry. The border on the WA side is marked by a nail! We were privileged to be escorted and shown the exact location of the particular nail. It is on the side of the road, right at the quarantine point. If you are curious, next time you travel across Nullarbor, ask the quarantine personnel to show it to you. The lady worker was very happy to share that information with us.
Eastern side of Nullarbor
Big Kangaroo at the Border Village
Once you cross the border and are on the South Australian side, you will arrive at the Border Village. Here, you can see a giant kangaroo statue. It is another iconic site and so uniquely Australia. The kangaroo, called Rooey, is holding Vegemite 😊. The statue is 5 meters tall.
Bunda Cliffs
Bunda Cliffs are the best attraction on the Nullarbor, in our opinion. We would be willing to drive across the Nullarbor just to see them. These majestic limestone cliffs are up to 105 meters high. They are literally marking the end of the continent on the southern side, as they drop abruptly in the Southern Ocean. Bunda Cliffs are stretching for over 120 km along the shore of the Great Australian Bight. They are quite fragile and unstable, eroding rapidly.
Camping near Nullarbor cliffs
As much as it seems like really cool to camp at the edge of Nullarbor cliffs, we didn’t do it. It is quite dangerous to camp or even drive too close to the edge of the cliffs. Being constantly eroded, they might collapse at any minute. It is also illegal nowadays for that same reason. Instead, we camped along the Eyre Highway, at one of the free rest stops, approximately 1.5 km from the cliffs. These rest stops have no amenities, although some do have picnic tables though. But it is quiet and peaceful and even occasional road trains didn’t bother us at all.
The best thing was the beautiful sunset that we could view from our camp.
Nullarbor Roadhouse
Nullarbor Roadhouse is a popular rest stop for anyone travelling across the Nullarbor.
We found Nullabor Roadhouse fuel quite reasonable during our visits in December 2024 and January 2025. This is notable because there is no such thing as cheap on Nullarbor. Not only that, Nullarbor Roadhouse is like an attraction in itself. It has unique signs, information boards, describing the history of Nullarbor and the old roadhouse building. We didn’t stay at the caravan park. Neither did we buy any meals at the restaurant. All of this is available there. But we did take showers there (for a small fee), which felt like heaven after days of not washing. Definitely a must stop on the Nullarbor, no matter what your requirements are.
Head of Bight
Seeing southern right whales was another highlight on the Nullarbor. They congregate in big numbers at a bay where the Head of Bight Whale Centre has been established. Southern right whales come to this area from cold southern oceans to calve and breed starting from May. Nearly half of all Australian population of southern right whales visit the Head of Bight every year, so it is an important aggregation area for them there. July-August is the peak season to see whale mothers with their calves. At this time up to 70 whales can be seen daily from the purpose-built platform. On the day we visited the Head of Bight (24 July 2025), there were 11 pairs swimming near the shore. By October, whales begin to migrate south again.
The adult whale reaches the length of 14 meters while the calf is 5 meters long. It is an amazing experience to watch these giants swim gracefully.
Sometimes you can see the youngers whales breach (jump out of the water) and lift their tail or flippers. You can also hear them making moaning noises.
It cost us, as a family $50 to visit the Head of Bight but it was really worth it. Definitely recommend a visit there during the season.
Lake MacDonnell
We love pink lakes. But Lake MacDonnell is not just a pink lake. As you drive along the road, this pink lake is on one side. A green-blue lake is on the other side. This contrast is very picturesque. Many people don’t mind the detour when travelling across Nullarbor just to get this photo opportunity. Lake MacDonnell is 15km south of Penong on the way to Point Sinclair in South Australia.
Ceduna – end of Nullarbor
Ceduna marks the end of the Nullarbor. It has a quarantine stop, where you must stop to be checked. All fresh fruits and vegetables (except for a couple of items) must be disposed.
Ceduna is also a place to fill up fuel and grocery. The fresh produce is still expensive there, but at least you can get some variety. There is information centre, different types of accommodation and restaurants. We were happy to find a cafe that served gluten free fish and chips there. After travelling for a few weeks, it was a delight to treat ourselves :).
In conclusion
They say that you are not a true Aussie, unless you traveled across Nullarbor. After living in Australia for more than 20 years, we finally travelled across Nullarbor in 2024-2025. We did it twice – travelling eastward and then back westward. Will we do it again? Absolutely! We still have unfinished business and a few places to see on the Nullarbor. We hold dear memories of our trip to NSW and back to WA. No doubt, we’ll do it again.
The Eyre Peninsula is a triangular shaped peninsula in South Australia. It is known for its rugged coastline with many natural attractions, endless beaches, unique wildlife and great seafood.
Western coast of the Eyre Peninsula
Haslam
Haslam is a small coastal town in the western part of the Eyre Peninsula, South Australia. It is located 45km northwest of Streaky Bay, off Flinders Hwy. Established back in 19 century, it was originally a deep sea port and a coastal shipping town. There is an old jetty that was built in 1912. It still functions and serves as a fishing jetty.
Haslam is a popular place for an overnight stop for those travelling east to west or vice versa. It was a savior for us, as we couldn’t secure any accommodation in Streaky Bay. There is a council-run campground, which costs us only $10 per night. Facilities include picnic tables. Public toilets, dump point and newly build playground with exercise equipment are only 100 meters away.
This is what I saw when arrived late at night at Haslam. It was pitch dark and I was struggling to see anything near the waterfront. The moon aligned with Venus looked beautiful up in the sky. The lights at the end of the jetty were reflected in the water. It was quiet and peaceful.
Streaky Bay
Streaky Bay is a larger coastal town further south from Haslam. It is known for its spectacular coastline with many natural wonders. It is also a prime fishing location. Being one of the largest towns for many hundred kilometers, it is the center for essential services. For us, Streaky Bay was the place to explore nature’s wonders. There are many scenic drives and trails around Streaky Bay. With limited time available, we only covered a small section of what it is there to explore.
Whistling Rocks and Blowholes
Cape Bauer Loop Coastal Drive was our first choice. It is 38km loop drive. First, we visited the Whistling Rocks and the Blowholes. We love blowholes and try to visit them as we come across them during our travels. These Blowholes were formed when vertical fractures in the limestone cliffs become enlarged by erosion over thousands of years. Sometimes these pipes are connected at the base of the cliffs with open air. In that case the waves force the air and sea water through the spaces. This is how the fountains of sea water emerge from the rocks with forceful sounds. The phenomenon is known as blowholes. Sometimes only air comes out. Other times you can see water too.
Yanerbie Sand dunes
Yanerbie Sandhills are part of Westall Way 32km loop drive. It was a fun place to visit for our kids as they were playing with the sand. Visiting sand dunes during sunset was quite magical too for photography.
While walking towards Blowholes and Whistling Rock, we saw this Jacky lizard. I love how this little lizard has so many common names. According to wikipedia, it is also known as blood-sucker, stonewalker and tree dragon. No matter how it is called, it is a cute little lizard.
Venus Bay
Venus Bay is a small tourist and fishing town that lies between Streaky Bay and Elliston. The place is quite picturesque. It has a unique curved jetty, used by marine vehicles, as well as fishermen.
The beach is calm, thus making it a popular holiday destination.
Apart from a unique curved jetty another attraction of Venus Bay is Needle Eye lookout. You can see the beautiful coastline of the Great Australian Bight from there.
Walkers Rock
Walkers Rock campground near Elliston is a usual coastal campground on the Eyre Peninsula. We arrived late at night when it was dark. Only in the morning we had a chance to briefly see what the camp looked like. We were not particularly impressed by the layout. Some sites are more or less private, while others are cramped too close together with no privacy. The worst thing was that there was only 1 toilet (!) for 34 sites. And if you are far away from it, you would need to walk nearly 10 minutes towards it. Easier to drive.
But – this was the place where I was lucky enough to witness real Aurora for the first time. And what a show it was!
Leaving the campground, I saw these Cape Barren Geese.
Murphy’s Haystacks
Murphy’s Haystacks is a unique geological rock formation that attracts a lot of visitors, especially for those who love photography. These wind-eroded granite rocks are over 1500 million old. And what’s in the name? It happens that the rocks got their name from a Scottish agricultural expert. While travelling on day, he saw them from the distance and thought they were haystacks. Being located on Murphy’s property, they became known as Murphy’s Haystacks. But technically they are inselbergs, which means isolated rock hills.
Murphy’s Haystacks are 40km east from Streaky Bay and 2km off the Flinders Hwy. They are located on private property and a small entry fee applies.
Talia Caves
Another unique natural attraction of the Eyre Peninsula is Talia Caves, which include the Tub and the Woolshed. It is the Woolshed that gets most of the tourists’ attention. We nearly missed it as the name sounded misleading to us. We walked down the steps to the rocks and spent some time marveling at the mighty ocean. Kids were exploring little rock holes with their marine treasures inside.
Then we took pictures outside of the giant cave but didn’t think of entering it.
The slippery slope inside did look slightly dangerous. But braving for the sake of memories and photo opportunity we decided to give it a try. When you look out into the ocean from the cave it feels like looking through a natural window. The window that has been carved by wind and waves, over thousands of years.
The Tub is further down the track. It is a relatively large crater in the rocks that connects to the ocean via a tunnel.
Talia Caves are 40km north of Elliston.
Central Eyre Peninsula
Kimba
Who doesn’t know where Kimba is? Well, we didn’t know until our trip to eastern states in December 2024. Kimba is an iconic place, in our opinion. Probably, anyone who drove from east to west, or vice versa, knows that. Kimba is a small rural town, but it is significant. It marks halfway between the east and west of Australia. There is even a popular sign there Halfway Across Australia. This is next to an 8-meter-tall statue of a galah. It’s another photo opportunity.
There is also a silo art, as well as a nice free campground. We didn’t stay at the campground, as it was still early for us and we had to make more kms. But we heard good reviews about it, so it is on our list for any future travels.
Iron Knob
Iron Knob is the birthplace of Australia’s steel industry. For such a tiny town, it is quite impressive that it has a Visitor Centre. The population is just slightly above 100. It also has a museum. They run tours of the nearby iron ore mine during cooler season.
Unfortunately, the Visitor Centre was closed due to extremely hot weather and then holidays at the end of December. But the town surprised us with great facilities for travellers. These include a free campground, newly installed toilets, showers, and a kitchen area. There is an interesting contrast that you can see in this town. Parts of the town look abandoned, making it almost like a ghost town.
Yet, there are new and clean amenities. The dedicated Visitor Centre has murals on the walls and looked very inviting from the outside. It also has a museum depicting local mining history. The “Aussie” spirit is trying to survive here.
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