Coral Coast Archives

Red Bluff near Quobba Station

Red Bluff is 125km north of Carnavon, at the southern end of Ningaloo Marine Park, along the beautiful Australia’s Coral Coast. Red Bluff campground is owned by Quobba Station. The 60km unsealed road (from Quobba Station) is corrugated and can be rough but suitable for 2WDs and off-road caravans.

Red Bluff campground

Facilities at the campground include many rustic long drop toilets with water and soup for washing hands. There are also bins and some shelters and benches around the camp. The sites are scattered around a big area. Whilst the sites are designated, they are not numbered and you can choose your own site. Most sites have beach views. They are quite large, although not quite levelled, which might be an issue for large caravans. We normally use Max Tracks to level the vehicle as we rely on it for our cooking needs.

There are also eco tents, bungalows and beach shacks to suit different needs and preferences. In fact, after staying for one night in our swags, we got a privilege of being upgraded to a beach shack. We decided take on the offer and enjoy shade while still having fantastic beach front views. Here is a short reel, showing how Australian beach shack looks like inside.

The cost is $22 per adult, $10 per child (prices in 2024) per night for camping under the stars. There are campfire pits at each site, which would be nice to use in cooler weather (we were there in April and didn’t have any campfire). The best thing about the campground is “rustic station stay feel” of this place. There is also a small shop and a café which opens at certain hours. The owners do allow dogs on leash, if you want to bring your furry friend.

What to do and see at Red Bluff

Red Bluff is considered a great fishing and surfing spot.

It is also an awesome place for star gazing and photogrpaphy. The sunrise and sunsets over the bluff are sensational. Rocky outcrops and shells add contrast to dark blue waters of mighty ocean.

The best thing about the Red Bluff is, of course, the beach and awesome coastline.

At low tide, receding water creates a few little lagoons and spas, perfect for bathing and soaking in.

You can find many dry corals on the beach. They are simply amazing to admire.

Coastal 4WD track

We took a coastal 4WD track from Red Bluff to Gnaraloo Bay. It was quite an adventure. What started as a clearly marked track turned into a series of puzzles. We came to numerous forks, taking one turn only to find a gate with No Access sign on it. Taking a different track didn’t provide a solution either. The track kept disappearing, turning into a section of rocks. Having crawled over it, we found a track appearing again. Taking the 4WD track we hoped to visit a few attractions along the coast. But it led us nowhere. Short reel about this track is here.

We even had to use a drone once to look for a track and directions.

To make things worse, the weather wasn’t favourable at all. After a couple of hours of driving we did arrive at Gnaraloo Bay, having missed all the attractions on the way, only to find that the entrance to the beach was flooded. The wind was extremely strong to enjoy afternoon tea, so we jumped back into the car and drove back to the camp with tyres full of mud.

Flooded 4WD track from Red Bluff to Gnaraloo Bay

Nevertheless, we enjoyed our 4WDriving trip. As we stopped a few times, I noticed these amazing rock patterns. Some of them looked like Aboriginal paintings.

One looked like a fish, another like a broken pieces of a skeleton :).

Eagle rays at Red Bluff

On the last day of our stay at Red Bluff, as we were packing up and nearly ready to leave, I went to have a last look at the beautiful ocean. Luckily, I did, as I spotted 3 eagle rays swimming very close to the shore. We spent at least half an hour watching them swim along the coast back and forth.

Aerial view of rays swimming close to the shore

They were still there as we were leaving.

Red Bluff near Quobba station beach with eagle rays

Dirk Hartog Island

Dirk Hartog Island is Western Australia’s largest island. It is located 2km off shore from Steep Point – Australian mainland most westerly point in Shark Bay. The island got its name after a Dutch sea captain Dirk Hartog, who was the first European to step on the island in 1616. Current “Return to 1616” ambitious project aims to restore ecological balance on Dirk Hartog Island to its pristine condition prior to European settlement in 1616. First settlers brought goats and sheep with them which caused damage to native plants and reduction of native fauna. Since the start of the project in 2007 these domestic animals have been removed and are now replaced with native species. Feral goats still occur in large numbers in Edel Land National Park.

How to get there

Dirk Hartog Island is accessible only by boat from Denham, light aircraft or a private barge from Steep Point. Most people, especially the 4WD enthusiasts, choose a barge to get there. Barge transfer is an experience by itself and is quite iconic. 2km long journey across South Passage from Shelter Bay in Edel Land National Park takes about 15 minutes. The barge can accommodate only one vehicle.

Vehicle on the barge travelling to Dirk Hartog Island

What is the condition of the track like

Driving on Dirk Hartog Island is an adventure by itself. At nearly 80km long and 15km wide, travelling on the island is a bit of a challenge due to heavy corrugation. It might take a full day to travel from bottom to the top of the island. Should you be driving fast there? Here are our thoughts.

There are also some rocky sections, slopes and tilts and few sand dunes to cross. You will definitely need a reliable 4WD for this kind of terrain.

Camping at the national park

It is possible to camp on Dirk Hartog Island either in the Homestead or in the national park. There are only 20 sites at the Homestead and 20 at the national park. Bookings are essential through Dirk Hartog Island Homestead site. There are no facilities at the national park and you would need to bring everything with you and take your rubbish when you leave. No dogs and no campfires are allowed at the national park.

We stayed at Notch Point in the national park, which is the closest to the barge arrival site campground on Dirk Hartog Island. It is located on the eastern side of the island, which is protected from strong winds and has clear calm waters. There are only 2 spots allocated for camping either side of a beach, which gives everyone plenty of space and privacy (just as we like it!). You pay premium for such a privilege to camp in this pristine idealistic place. We spent 4 epic days and nights at Notch Point, fully enjoying ourselves, despite millions of flies 😊. They are part of camping, anyway, and we just treat them as such.

Like anywhere on the island, you can enjoy fishing, swimming and snorkeling, or just relaxing by the beach.

The sunsets and sunrises are some of the best we’ve ever seen.

Dirk Hartog Island Homestead

A lot of people choose to stay at Dirk Hartog Island Homestead sites where there are more facilities (including hot showers) and also onsite bar and merchandise shop. It is a great place for those who want a bit more social life in this remote location. When people gather at the bar every afternoon, it feels like a little village with all the buzz going on.

We stayed for 1 night at the Homestead, so we didn’t need to travel far for the barge transfer in the morning.

The best thing about the Homestead for us was free use of paddle boards and kayaks, which we enjoyed very much. We managed to see sea snakes, sting rays, star fishes and tropical fishes.

What to see on the island

Blowholes

The first thing you might like to see as you arrive on the island is blowholes. We found the blowholes in Edel Land National Park more impressive (meaning, louder and bigger). But these are still worth a visit, even if to appreciate the beauty of the landscape. Those massive Zuytdorp Cliffs rising out of mighty ocean are awesome. They are a visual example of fault scarp, which is actually the longest in Australia. Blowholes are on the western side of the island, 3km off the main track, on the way to Dirk Hartog Island Homestead.

Surf Point

Surf Point might need a bit more time than just a quick visit. It is a sanctuary zone in the south of Dirk Hartog Island. It is a 15km drive from Cape Ransonnet (the barge arrival site), on the western side. Surf Point is a great place to go snorkeling (assuming you don’t mind sharing the space with sharks 😊). The sharks, even though being small and relatively harmless, do scare many people away. But honestly, sharks looked more scared of us, then we of them 😊.

We spent a few hours at Surf Point, walking along on the beach and going for short dips. You can find some corals, giant clams and tropical fishes in the rocky pools on the exposed side of Surf Point.

Drone helped us to see a turtle too and many more sharks 😊.

Sharks in shallow waters of Dirk Hartog Island

Sand dunes

There are a few sand dunes on Dirk Hartog Island that you will need to cross if you travel north, past Homestead. They are actually fun to drive. We stopped for a closer look to appreciate the beauty of the landscape, shaped by nature. Kids had lots of fun going up and down the slopes. If you want to take nice pictures, going there in the afternoon, when the sun is a bit lower, is probably best.

Sandy Point

During our last trip we managed to venture only as far north as Sandy Point (having not realized how slow the driving on the island is ☹ but all the more the reason to visit the island again). Sandy Point is roughly in the middle of the island on the eastern side. It is a nice sandy beach, with a sanctuary zone on one side and fishing area somewhere further away. You can camp at Sandy Point or just come for a day visit.

Wildlife on Dirk Hartog Island

There is plenty of marine life to see in the water and on the shore. Apart from dolphins, sharks, seasnakes, sea turtles pictured above, sea stars were also in abundance.

There are many crabs too, which you can see at night and daytime alike.

While it is easy to spot marine life, animals on land are much harder to find. We were lucky to spot Banded hare-wallaby and Rufous hare-wallaby.

Rufous hare-wallaby at Dirk Hartog Island

Banded hare-wallaby at Dirk Hartog Island

But this guy didn’t need looking for. This Monitor Lizard literally occupied our camping spot at the Homestead :).

And here is us, satisfied with the trip (although annoyed with the flies) and eager to return back to explore the rest of the island.

Edel Land and Steep Point

Zuytdorp cliffs at Thunder Bay in Edel Land National Park

Edel Land is a proposed National Park in the Shark Bay region of Western Australia. It is the place where the most westerly point of Australian mainland is located – Steep Point. Useless Loop Road traverses the national park, leading to a number of attractions, which include the salt mine at the entrance, the blowholes on the coast, lookouts and historical sites. The park is also home to impressive 200 meter high Zuytdorp Cliffs. It is a very remote area with no amenities, but quite well visited by 4WD enthusiasts as the corrugation of the track indicates. Camping is allowed at a few places within Edel Land national park. Even though, it is considered “proposed” national park, normal park entry fees apply.

Useless Loop Road

Useless Loop Road is a dirt road (after initial 30 or so km sealed) with an unusual and interesting name! The name Useless Loop was bestowed by a French explorer Louis de Freycinet who couldn’t get to an inviting harbour, believing it was blocked by a sandbar.

Originally a mining road leading to a company town with the same name servicing a salt mine, it is nowadays mostly known as the road to access the most westerly point of Australian mainland. It is quite wide but corrugated track. Stopping every now and again allowed us to appreciate the beauty of this seemingly unattractive track.

Driving further on Useless Loop Road, through Edel Land National Park, we had to stop a few times to access the track conditions. The track goes up and down almost continuously (which at some point caused us a collision with another vehicle that was driving too fast).

And once we nearly drove over the massive drop but luckily stopped just in time. This was at Dicko’s Lookout, which was quite nice.

The last 30km before Steep Point is the most challenging track, as it involves climbing sand dunes up and down. Check our reels about the track if you would like to see how it looks like.

Edel Land National Park attractions

Salt mine

Useless Loop Salt mine is the first attraction in Edel Land National Park and is right at the entrance.

The salt mine looks absolutely amazing from the ground with its surreal colour of the water. It looks even better from above.

Zuytdorp Cliffs

Zuytdorp Cliffs are very spectacular rock formations, rising up to 200 meters and stretching for nearly 200km along the western coast of Australia, between Kalbarri and Steep Point. Their sheer height, as well as almost continuous length is very impressive. The cliffs were named after the Dutch ship, the Zuytdorp, that was wrecked against the base of the cliffs in 18th century.

Coastal Zuytdorp Cliffs at Edel Land National Park

It is possible to drive along the coastal cliffs. Sometimes (on the western side from False Entrance going north) the track is uncomfortably too close to the 200-meter cliff drop and it makes you feel like you are driving into the ocean 😊.

Blowholes

You can find blowholes in two locations in Edel Land National Park – at False Entrance and in Thunder Bay. Blowholes occur when there are holes in the coastal cliffs. When massive waves hit the coast, the force pushes air and sea mist out through those holes. When the force is strong enough, water comes out too a few meters high and sometimes pieces of debris, like stones, seaweed, etc.

Big hole in the coastal cliffs at Edel Land National Park

Blowholes at False Entrance

If the sight of the water and air surging out from the ground was impressive, the sound was deafening and scary for kids. Check our short video of blowholes on Tiktok here.

The sighting of a sea turtle was a bonus 😊.

Blowholes at Thunder Bay were equally impressive.

Camping at Edel Land Natinal Park

Camping at Edel Land National Park is available at 3 locations – False Entrance, Shelter Bay and Steep Point. The sites need to be booked online via ParkstayWA.

False Entrance

False Entrance camp is in the south of Edel Land National Park. It is 50km from Steep Point, the most westerly point of Australian mainland. The place got its name after many early seafarers mistook it for the South Passage, the entrance to Shark Bay, between Dirk Hartog Island and Steep Point. There is a camping area with just 5 spots scattered around at False Entrance. We were on site 1, which was quite far away from all other sites. There are no facilities and you would need to bury human waste and take all other rubbish with you. False Entrance is very beautiful but quite rough and windy. The camp is on the beach, tucked behind the dunes.

Camping at False Entrance in Edel Land National Park

Sand dunes at False Entrance in Edel Land National Park

The beach is very beautiful but with huge waves we couldn’t swim there. Instead, we enjoyed stunning sunsets and sunrises and short walks around, including climbing up and down the dunes.

Steep Point

Steep Point is the most westerly point of Australian mainland and an iconic place. Unfortunately, it was very windy for a drone to fly to take pictures from above when we visited this place. The position of the sun wasn’t helping either in taking a decent selfie. We were there in the afternoon, which is not the best time for photos with that iconic sign, so plan for a morning visit.

Steep Point campground facilities are very basic but there are drop toilets there.

Shelter Bay

A lot of people who go to Dirk Hartog Island, choose to camp at Shelter Bay in Edel Land NP the night before they take the barge, especially if they book the transfer for an early hour. Shelter Bay was beautiful, although, contrary to its name, it was windy. We were at DHI barge site and could see vehicles lining up to catch a barge, even before the sunrise, with the first transfer at 6.30am. Sites at Shelter Bay need to be booked online beforehand. Facilities include a few drop toilets scattered around. It is quite a large campground with plenty of space and right on the beach.

Ellendale Pool and Greenough

Ellendale Pool and Greenough are two places of interest in Australia’s Mid-West region. They are popular with tourists as short holiday destinations or on the way to Coral Coast. Likewise locals from Geraldton love these places as their weekend gateaway.

Ellendale Pool

Located 51km east from Geraldton, it is an easy 40-minute drive on sealed roads. The natural rock pool, formed by flowing Greenough River is particularly picturesque. Many people swim there, although warning is issued that swimming is not advisable in temperatures higher than 24 degrees due to the presence of bacteria. If not swimming, canoeing can be easily enjoyed on the river. The colours of the gorge are shades of orange which become more dramatic at sunrise and sunset. They cast beautiful reflections into the calm waters of the pool.

Beautiful reflections of a rock in the pool

The facilities at Ellendale Pool include flushing toilets, outside cold shower, non-drinking water taps, bbqs, picnic tables, rubbish bins, dump point and even a small playground. Dogs on leash are allowed.

Many corellas flying in the sky near rock pool

At the moment, the area is free, which makes it very popular with locals and tourists alike. However, we suspect, it won’t be free for long. The place is suitable for both tents/swags and caravans. It does have 2 camping areas but it can fill up quickly.

Ellendale Pool attracts lots of birds. Noisy corellas come in hundreds and visit the place a few times daily. Swallows are in much smaller numbers and quieter but you can still hear them chirping cheerfully in the morning. Australian ringnecks and galahs also frequent the place.

How are the road conditions?

When there is a lot of rain, the road to Ellendale Pool might be closed, as it gets flooded.

The last 1km of Ellendale Pool Road is dirt corrugated road. The good news – it is only a short drive!

Sky wonders at Ellendale Pool

Being far away from the city, there is almost no light pollution at Ellendale Pool, which makes it a great place to watch the night sky.

You can only see sky like this when there is no moon. However, when there is one, we enjoy taking pictures of it too.

Even though trees blocked some of the views of the setting sun, the light from the sun was still visible. From pink to purple to red, the colour of the sky was ujchanging in a matter of a few minutes.

We enjoyed our 3 nights stay at Ellendale Pool, owing to its beauty and excellent facilities. On the other hand, if you are looking for something very quiet and tranquil, it might not be the ideal place as it is a busy place, popular with people and noisy birds alike 😊.

Greenough

Greenough is a small settlement, south of Geraldton, with rich history. Apart from its history, Greenough is also known for its leaning trees. Some of them are lying almost horizontally to the ground. These are eucalyptus species, River Gums. They grow mostly on private properties, but there is one prominent leaning tree, on the Brand Highway, near Greenough settlement, that you can see quite close. Although, there is a fence, so you can’t really touch it. So why do the trees grow sideways in Greenough? Their leaning position is caused by constantly blowing salty southerly winds from the Indian Ocean. The natives of Western Australia say that it is a way of paying respect to the Mother Earth.

Greenough River

Rivers have always been an attraction for people. Being a source of water, rivers attract lots of birdlife. Some of the nicest walks are also along the river banks. If you are around Geraldton, why not enjoy the Greenough River, which meets the ocean at Cape Burney, 10 km south of Geraldton.

Lovers of hiking can take Greenough River Walk Trail. Starting from the Greenough River mouth at Cape Burney, the trail runs in a 17km loop, which you can hike in sections. This is quite an easy hike with the mixed views of the river and coastal vegetation. The trail is shared by bicycles and in some parts by 4WDs.

Devlin Pool, along the trail, is very picturesque. It can be admired from the lookout. Or you can walk down to it and have a swim or go canoeing. We chose to admire from the top 😊.

Although not part of the Greenough River Nature Trail, but still along the river is Bootenal Spring. This place has a historical value, as it is thought to be a site of confrontations between local Aboriginal people and early settlers. We found it quite a picturesque place, although hard to get to the water in some places.

The Walkaway Wind Farm

Located 30 km south of Geraldton, near a small town Walkaway is the Walkaway Wind Farm. The MidWest is one of Australia’s windiest regions. With the wind speed of 20-25km per hour and consistent breeze, the farm is able to generate electricity.

Windfarm generator turbines in Walkaway near Greenough

Interesting facts: The production of electricity starts at wind speed 14km/h. The amount of electricity produced increases until the turbines reach the speed 36km/h. When the wind speed exceeds 90km/h, the turbines automatically shut down. The minimum lifetime of a turbine is 25 years. Our observation: all the turbines rotate at different speeds (must be due to the fact that each turbine doesn’t catch the wind equally). Some might even not move, while others continue to rotate.

To conlclude

What did we remember most from this 3 day trip to Ellendale Pool? Little Corellas!

Francois Peron National Park

Francois Peron National Park in the Shark Bay region along Australia’s Coral Coast is one of our favourite travel destinations. It is a combination of immense raw beauty of red dirt deserts, clear blue ocean waters and white sands, rough 4WD tracks and unique flora and fauna that makes this place so attractive and captivating.

Bush camping at Francois Peron National Park

There are 5 bush campgrounds at Francois Peron National Park – South Gregories, Gregories, Bottle Bay, Herald Bight and Big Lagoon. There are only basic facilities (toilets and some campgrounds have a bbq). Bookings do not apply to these campgrounds but camping fees ($15 per night per person) and park entry fees do apply. The campgrounds are close to the beach. There is no drinking water and no rubbish bins. There is a large skip bin at the entrance to the park where you inflate and deflate the tyres. You would need a 4WD to get to those campgrounds.

The magic of Bottle Bay

We stayed at Bottle Bay campground in 2022 and absolutely loved our 4 day stay there!

Nature painted pictures – patterns, colours and shapes uniquely crafted by wind, rain and time.

Big Lagoon

We love Francois Peron Naitonal Park and visited it several times. Every time we endevour to stay at different campgrounds. So, in 2024 after our trip to Dirk Hartog Island we stayed at Big Lagoon.

Big Lagoon is a series of small picturesque lagoons closer to the entrance to Francois Peron National Park. You have a boat or a kayak, you can explore the little lagoons within the sanctuary zone (you can access it only by boat).

Another way to enjoy this lovely place is to have a picnic or camp there. Big Lagoon campground is the biggest within Francois Peron National Park. There are 19 sites of various sizes and layout but all are quite big. Some sites are drive through. Others have metal raised platforms for tents and swags. All sites can accommodate minimum 2 vehicles. Facilities include 4 long drop well maintained toilets in various parts of the campground. There is also adjacent day use picnic area with sheltered decking, tables, BBQs. Sites are non-bookable. You can fish from the shores of the lagoon near the campground.

Wildlife

Every morning during our stay at Bottle Bay in Francois Peron National Park we woke up to find interesting tracks on the ground and sand. Every time we tried to figure out who made those numerous tracks. We understood that the animals were nocturnal, hiding during the day, making it a complete mystery for us. We saw a beetle, but whom do the rest of the tracks belong to?

We were lucky to see an echidna in Shark Bay (thanks to our older son, Ariel who has spotted it from the car). That is how close we managed to get to echidna before it went hiding.

While we didn’t see many animals (but many tracks), we saw plenty of birds in Shark Bay. Pied Cormorant is quite abundant there, as is the Pacific gull, which is a very large gull native to the coasts of Australia. Interestingly, the young pacific gull is mottled-brown-greyish in colour.

Sunrise and sunset

When there is not enough sun during the day, looking at the pictures of sunrise helps to boost the mood. 😍

Sunset is equally therapeutic.

Birridas

Birridas (also spelled Birrada) or gypsum claypans were once saline lakes, between sand dunes, isolated from the ocean. A drop in sea level dried the lakes turning them into what is now known as birridas. There are large areas of birridas in Francois Peron National Park, of different shapes and sizes (with the massive patch between Herald Bight and Gregories). Birridas look quite magnificent (probably, even more so from high above). They are among Shark Bay’s visual attractions, contributing to the region’s World Heritage status through the listing in ‘superlative natural phenomena’ category. Birridas look like they are hard but actually are soft and very unstable, so driving over them is extremely risky and prohibited.

How we got bogged in Francois Peron National Park

We managed to tow our caravan safely to Bottle Bay and nearly all the way back, past the most soft and corrugated parts of the road between Cattle Well and Gregories. But just before Kraskoe’s Tank, we got bogged! There was a lot of ongoing traffic on our way back from Bottle Bay and in an attempt to consider others, we moved to the side of the track, giving way to ongoing traffic. It seems that the sand was blown into a pile and it happened to be very soft there. So we got bogged, blocking the track to a couple of vehicles behind us and ahead of us.

However, being bogged is not a big issue. It is always a test to how the vehicle can handle the terrain, as well as the test of our 4WD skills. As we were a bit more experienced now, we managed to dig ourselves (thanks to Maxtrax) within 10 minutes.

Kids did a good job of helping out too!

Cape Peron

Cape Peron is at the tip of Francois Peron National Park. It is a place of contrasting colours, where red sandstone meets whitish sand and blue ocean waters. This place is abundant in wildlife. For lovers of hiking, there is Wanamalu trail, 1.5km one way, which connects Cape Peron and Skipjack Point.

Interestingly, Wanamalu is Aboriginal name for Cormorants, which can be seen gathering in crowds along the water’s edge at Cape Peron.

Skipjack Point

1,5km from Cape Peron is Skipjack Point, which is another beautiful place to admire. It has a viewing platform from which you can view marine wildlife in abundance. Every time we visit it, we see lots of wildlife swimming in the ocean. Here you can also get the same contrasting view of red, iron rich earth and blue waters, which is truly mesmerizing.

Interestingly, the red sand of Peron Peninsula is mostly made of quartz with a layer of iron oxide. It is the same compound that forms when irons rusts, giving the sand its unique colour. The deposits of these red sand are thought to be at least 250,000 years old. While this red sandstone underlies most of Shark Bay, it is exposed only on Peron Peninsula.

Do you know that Skipjack Point is named after golden trevally, which are locally known as “skipjacks” and are abundant in those waters?

How to get to Francois Peron National Park

Francois Peron National Park is on the Peron Penninsular in Shark Bay region, 726km north of Perth, along Australia’s Coral Coast. You can assess the park off the Monkia Mia Road, 4km east of Denham. The road to the Peron Heritage Precinct is unsealed by you can get there with a 2WD. The rest of the park is 4WD only.

Eagle Bluff coastal camp in Shark Bay

Sunset at Eagle Bluff in Shark Bay — Amazing colours of the sunset at Eagle Bluff

Eagle Bluff is a coastal camp site south of Denham in Shark Bay area along Australia’s Coral Coast. It can be accessed via a 2WD dirt road (turn off from Shark Bay Road). The campsite is not marked, so you can choose your own spot. There are only 4 cars that can camp there at any one time. To camp there you must have a permit, which costs $15 per night (in 2022), obtainable from Shark Bay Visitor Centre in Denham. There are no facilities and you can only stay there for 24 hours. We think that to pay $15 for the right to camp on the edge of the cliff in the pristine place in the World Heritage listed area is well worth it. The best things for us were the amazing sunset and sunrise.

Camping at Eagle Bluff in Shark Bay — The changing colours of the setting sun, painting the sky in red, yellow and orange

Walking on the beach early in the morning is not only an exercise but also an opportunity to spot something interesting.

Unlike other campgrounds near Denham in Shark Bay, Eagle Bluff has a small lagoon, which makes a perfect sunrise photo.

Only a couple of kilometers away from the Eagle Bluff camp site is a viewing platform from which you can enjoy the vast views of the ocean and spot some marine life.

View from the viewing platform at Eagle Bluff

Shell Beach in Shark Bay

Shell beach, 45km from Denham, in Shark Bay along Australia’s Coral Coast, is one of only a handful of places on earth where the beach is made entirely from shells. Stretching for over 70km, it is a very picturesque place, attracting many visitors. After 4000 years of being washed onto the beach, the shells have reached the depth of 9 meters in some places. Interestingly, the shells are from just one type of animal, the Shark Bay cockle, making the beach truly unique. The waters in Shell Beach are highly saline and shallow. This contributes to the incredible abundance of this marine species in just one place.

In early 1900s, before Shark Bay got its World Heritage listing, locals quarried and used shells for construction of buildings in nearby Denham.

We have visited Shell Beach a few times. During our last visit in April 2022 we noticed upgrades to the beach with the toilets and undercover picnic areas. The waters were too shallow for swimming at that time but kids had great fun playing with the shells.

Kid playing with shells at Shell Beach in Shark Bay — Playing with the sand at Shell Beach in Shark Bay

Interestingly, just a few kilometers away from Shell Beach, but on the opposite side, there is a mini version of Shell Beach, where we camped in April. The place is Goulet Bluff.

Best snorkelling near Coral Bay

Five Fingers Reef, 4,5km south of Coral Bay, offers the best snorkelling experience near Coral Bay. When we were in Ningaloo Reef in April this year (2022), we were told that while the corals in Coral Bay were affected by bleaching, Five Fingers Reef corals were in much better condition. It is a 10-minute drive from Coral Bay over the sand dunes and a 4WD is required to travel along the track which leads you right onto the beach.

Five Fingers Reef is a popular 4WD destination

Interestingly, the name Five Fingers comes from the way the reef looks like. There are five strips (or fingers) of parallel reef running from the beach to around 200 meters offshore. The waters there are very calm and shallow, with lots of corals and other amazing marine life underneath. A great place to visit for a day or a few hours.

The underwater life at Five Fingers Reef is amazing! From a variety of corals, fishes to blue spotted rays, giant clams, sea cucumbers!

Want to see more corals? We have a big library of underwater photos that we took at Cape Range National Park near Exmouth. Did we mention that at Five Fingers you’ll find the best snorkelling near Coral Bay? We are not the only ones thinking that way.

Warroora Coastal Reserves

Warroora Coastal Reserves are part of the Ningaloo (Nyinggulu) Coastal Reserves, adjacent to and part of World Heritage listed Ningaloo Marine Park that stretch for 220 kilometres.

You can get there via Minilya-Exmouth Road (from the north or from the south). 2WD can get you to the Warroora station and 14 Mile beach camp, but to get to all other campgrounds you would need a 4WD as the road is not only corrugated but also can be soft, rocky and with slopes in some places.

Warroora Coastal reserves are managed by DPAW and can be booked online. There are 11 campgrounds to choose from – some only have a few sites and others are bigger and more popular. There are no amenities at any of the campgrounds. You are required to bring a chemical toilet to this place (which can also be hired at the Warroora station). Dogs are allowed.

For $8 per adult ($3 per child) you get a permission to camp on a beautiful coast with access to some amazing corals only a short driving distance away. If you don’t want to be cramped like sardines in one of the caravan parks in the close-by Coral Bay, camping in nature might be the way to go. It certainly is for us!

Stopping on the way to enjoy the scenery and little things

Black Moon Cliff

We stayed at Black Moon Cliff, which is 6km south of Warroora station, a small campground, tucked behind the dunes. The campground has only 10 sites, all quite large – some closer to the beach and some behind the second dune.

The coastline at Black Moon Cliff looked quite beautiful with rugged outcrops, although the beach had a lot of weeds at the time we visited (April 2022).

Natural beauty at Warroora Coast

Undeniably the sunsets and sunrises were sensational! Every evening I was awe struck when seeing how the colours and patterns of the sky changed with every second as the sun went down.

Every evening the setting sun painted the sky differently. No sunset is the same.

As the sun was going down on one side above the ocean, the moon was rising up on the opposite side. Just watching sun and moon can be so therapeutic!

Watching the sun emerge from the horizon in the morning was an equally delightful and exciting experience. New day! What will it bring?

If you are into bird watching, Warroora Coast is abundant in wildlife. Spotting it though, requires patience and sometimes it is a matter of luck.

There are also many wildflowers in the region even outside of wildflower season. We visited this place in April and were still a few wildflowers there.

There are also plenty of dragon flies in Warroora Coastal reserves which can be tricky to photograph unless they land somewhere. One ended up in our caravan :).

Lagoon

Lagoon campground is further 6km south from Black Moon Cliff along the Ningaloo Coast. This campground is one of the larger ones (with 20 sites). The road there from the Warroora station is quite rocky, with a couple of hills and rock holes, so you definitely need a 4WD. But once you get to the Lagoon you are rewarded with a fantastic swimming beach. We actually liked the Lagoon better than the Black Moon Cliff campground, where we were based, and we spent a relaxing day at the Lagoon, soaking up experiences and memories.

Maggies

Maggies campground was a pleasant surprise for us. We would have missed going there, if we didn’t hear about it from someone whom we met while travelling. So, we are passing on the information together with our own experience and memories of this place.

Maggies is a small campground (with only 6 sites), a short detour from the coastal dirt road in the Warroora Reserves. It is tucked away behind the hills and dunes and there are a few slopes and one-way sections of the road there. We wouldn’t have thought of pulling anything there but actually saw a few caravans at Maggies. 4WD is still a must to get there.

The best thing about this campground was corals and other marine life, as well as rocky formations along the beach.

The underwater world at Maggies is amazing. Giant clams, Brain corals, Sea urchins, Blue Chromis are only some of the wonderful marine creatures you can see there.

To sum up, Warroora Coastal Reserves did not disappoint. Without a doubt, it is the place to visit again.

Best snorkelling sites at Cape Range

Snorkelling at North Kurrajong in Cape Range National Park — North Kurrajong at Cape Range

Looking for the best snorkelling sites at Cape Range? Keep reading. We always loved Cape Range, so travelling there again (the previous trip was in April 2021) was not something unusual. This time we stayed at a different campground and found a new snorkelling spot in addition to our favourite ones.

Oyster Stacks – best snorkelling site at Cape Range #1

There are 3 most popular snorkelling sites in Cape Range National park. Oyster Stacks is one of them. It has always been our favourite. Firstly, the outside reef is only 300m from the shore, so there is a big concentration of corals and other marine life. Secondly, there is hardly any current, so it is quite safe for children and inexperienced swimmers when the water is calm. Thirdly, the corals start right from the beach. So long as you care careful when entering the water because of the sharp rocks, you are straight in a paradise. We must emphasise that you should snorkel only during medium or high tides to avoid damaging corals. The first part of the day is normally the best for snorkeling as there is often some wind in the afternoon.

Snorkerlling at Oyster Stacks at Cape Range National park — Oyster Stacks beach

Aerial view of Oyster Stacks at Cape Range National Park — Oyster Stacks beach

Apart from the corals, Oyster Stacks beach is also known for its beautiful green crabs. This time we also saw a marine snail (I didn’t even know that such creatures exist!)

South Mandu – best snorkelling site at Cape Range #2

Shhhh… This is a secret spot. We found it was as good for snorkelling as the famous 3 sites in Cape Range National Park, however, it is not advertised anywhere (probably, due to proximity of the privately owned camping ground there). When we arrived in the morning, we had the beach all to ourselves!

South Mandu at Cape Range National Park — South Mandu

Beautiful beach at Cape Range National Park — South Mandu

The corals are very dense here, only a short distance away from the shore and those few meters before you reach the corals are just pure delight – sandy floor with turquoise clear water.

Best snorkerlling site at Cape Range National Park

There is also a “therapeutic” corner, if you go to the right from the snorkelling site. Here there is a patch of red nicely water polished pebbles, which are very pleasant to hold. We spent a good half hour just sitting there – watching the waves and listening to the hissing sound of the water as it was drawn back while passing through the segregation of pebbles. It is an ideal place to de-stress and let any worries melt away. The only downside is 500m walk from the carpark. Although, if you are not into snorkelling, you can have some fun swimming and surfing on the beach right near the carpark.

Turquoise Bay – best snorkelling site at Cape Range #3

Turquoise Bay is the highlight of the Cape Range National Park. It has many times been ranked as one of Australia’s top beaches. With white sandy beaches, crystal clear turquoise waters, amazing corals and other marine life it is an idyllic place. No wonder that it attracts a lot of tourists especially during the peak season (around Easter school holidays). We like to snorkel in Turquoise Bay Drift snorkel area, where the current takes you across corals and all you need to be concerned about is to exit before you reach the sand bar. Due to strong currents, formed by opening in the outer reef, snorkelling at Turquoise Bay is not recommended for inexperienced swimmers.

Try to get to Turquoise Bay early in the morning. Afterwards the tide comes in, claiming the beach and everyone is forced to move behind the fence to save their belongings 😊.

Camping at Cape Range

Located within the Ningaloo Coast World Heritage area, 70km km from Exmouth, Cape Range National Park has a few basic campgrounds only meters away from the beach. In April 2021 we stayed at Tulki beach and exactly a year later we based ourselves at North Kurrajong, from where we explored beautiful beaches.

North Kurrajong campground

It is a new campground (an addition to Kurrajong which is a short distance away), only steps away from the beach.

I was surprised that for a small campground (for 10 sites) there were 3 clean and nicely maintained non-flushing toilets.

There is also a large undercover picnic area with a few tables and a smaller but very popular sunset view undercover table from where we watched the sun going down over the ocean every night.

Watching sun go down from the sunset view undercover picnic table at North Kurrajong

The campground is accessible via a 2WD short drive from Yardie Creek Road. For $11 per person per night (children are $3 each), it is a great value for a prime location. We had very sweet memories of camping at Cape Range (not to mention amazing corals and fishes we have seen, the pictures of which I posted separately).

Watching sunrise, sunset and moon

When we camp in the bush, we don’t mind getting up early to see how the sun greets the day and sends the first rays of light into the sky before it is even visible above the horizon.

Jupiter and Venus still shining in the morning

When the sun is rising above the ranges in Cape Range National Park, the opposite side – the beach – is still in its “blue hour” colour. It is quiet and peaceful – a perfect opportunity to spot something interesting.

The magical golden hour.

Looking at the moon and taking pictures of it can be quite fascinating….

And when the sun goes down, it is a great opportunity to try your luck fishing from the beach. North Kurrajong is a recreational zone, so fishing is allowed there.

While the boys are fishing, I am taking pictures of the night sky.

How massive these termite nests are! On the way from Exmouth along Minilya Exmouth Road.

Are you ready to look at the corals and fishes now?

Red Bluff campground

What to do and see at Red Bluff

Coastal 4WD track

Eagle rays at Red Bluff

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How to get there

What is the condition of the track like

Camping at the national park

Dirk Hartog Island Homestead

What to see on the island

Blowholes

Surf Point

Sand dunes

Sandy Point

Wildlife on Dirk Hartog Island

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Useless Loop Road

Edel Land National Park attractions

Salt mine

Zuytdorp Cliffs

Blowholes

Camping at Edel Land Natinal Park

False Entrance

Steep Point

Shelter Bay

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Ellendale Pool

Sky wonders at Ellendale Pool

Greenough

Greenough River

The Walkaway Wind Farm

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Bush camping at Francois Peron National Park

The magic of Bottle Bay

Big Lagoon

Wildlife

Birridas

How we got bogged in Francois Peron National Park

Cape Peron

Skipjack Point

How to get to Francois Peron National Park

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Black Moon Cliff

Natural beauty at Warroora Coast

Lagoon

Maggies

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Oyster Stacks – best snorkelling site at Cape Range #1

South Mandu – best snorkelling site at Cape Range #2

Turquoise Bay – best snorkelling site at Cape Range #3

Camping at Cape Range

Watching sunrise, sunset and moon

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