From Coober Pedy in South Australia, we chose a shorter yet more challenging route back to Western Australia, passing through Lake Gairdner—a destination we were eager to explore. Lake Gairdner National Park lies north of the Gawler Ranges, in a truly remote corner of the outback. The unsealed gravel and sandy tracks wind through private properties, and during our journey in July we encountered only a couple of vehicles, likely belonging to local farmers.
Remoteness doesn’t intimidate us; in fact, it draws us in. We love places where silence reigns, where we can pause at will to absorb the sounds—or the absence of them—and feel deeply connected to nature.
The landscape enchanted us: red sand hills crowned with spinifex, kangaroos bouncing across the horizon. Even as the sky shifted from bright blue to darker tones, we appreciated the scenery. Each moment felt precious, and we savoured it fully.
The park’s main feature is Lake Gairdner, Australia’s third-largest salt lake. Other lakes include Lake Everard and Lake Harris, and they are all difficult to access. Our drone became our closest companion here, capturing breathtaking views and bringing back images that revealed the stark beauty of this isolated landscape.
Lake Everard (above)
Camping at Lake Gairdner NP
While travelling through Lake Gairdner National Park, we planned to stay at the free Waltumba Tank campground. However, as night fell, we couldn’t find any signs of the site after a long day on the road. Instead, we stopped at a clearing just off the track.
By morning, we realised we were not far from Lake Gairdner itself. Rising early, we caught the sunrise – that perfect hour when the world is hushed, and the day stretches ahead with promise.
The lake shimmered in the first light, its silver surface framed by the deep red earth and the vast outback horizon. The place where we had camped seemed transformed, serene and timeless.
Pondanna Ruins
As it turned out, we camped near Pondanna Ruins—historic structures in the Gawler Ranges of South Australia, close to the southern edge of Lake Gairdner. The site preserves the foundations of an 1880s shearing shed, cookhouse, and workers’ quarters.
It was fascinating to see the ruins, especially at sunrise, when the light revealed striking orange tones across the stonework. Looking down into a pit several metres deep was unsettling, with the thought lingering that escape would be impossible if someone were to fall in by accident.
Astrophotography at Lake Gairdner
The night we spent at Lake Gairdner National Park was truly magical. The sky was perfectly clear, moonless, and alive with countless stars. The Milky Way rose like a luminous river, stretching upward into infinity.
I set out toward the Pondanna ruins to take some photos, beginning with astrophotography near a lone tree halfway along the path. The silence of the night made me hesitant to continue alone, so I returned to camp and asked our older son, Ariel, to join me. Together we ventured to the ruins, sharing a special mother–son moment under the vast sky.
We were lucky enough to witness a shooting star that lingered for several seconds, a breathtaking sight. By then my camera was already packed away, but I didn’t mind—the astro shots I captured of the ruins, and the memory of that night, are treasures in themselves.
Old and modern way of travelling at Lake Gairdner
After leaving our camp at Lake Gairdner, we made our way toward the Gawler Ranges. Along the road, we came across a weathered wooden wagon and stopped to take a closer look. Standing before it, we were reminded of how different—and far more challenging—travel must have been in the past compared to the comfort and convenience we enjoy today.
In conclusion
There is no entry fee to Lake Gairdner NP. It is a remote area, with no facilities. We found the dirt road generally in a good condition. However, it might be impassable when it is wet.
