Bell Gorge (Dalmanyi) was the first gorge with waterfalls and swim holes on the Gibb River Road for us. (We travelled west to east and we missed out on Lennard Gorge due to its closure because of fire in July). It is 11 km from Silent Grove, which is a wonderful camping spot by itself. You can easily make the trip to the gorge from Silent Grove in half a day.
The Gorge Trail is 1,5km return easy hike to the top of the gorge. It offers spectacular views of the gorge, the creek and the waterfall cascading down a number of steps.
For a full experience of this magnificent gorge, follow the trail across the creek. Be prepared for your feet to get wet as you go down over the rocks to the bottom of the gorge. There you can swim and enjoy the view of the waterfall up close.
Getting across the creek to Bell Gorge
Like in most of the gorges in Kimberley, the water in the pool was cold but refreshing.
To conclude, it was the first gorge with the waterfall we visited on the Gibb River and we really liked it. We enjoyed the hike, the views and even the swim (despite the cold water).
Silent Grove (Dulundi) is a popular stop on the Gibb River Road, and can be used as a base to explore nearby Bell Gorge. Roughly 19km off the Gibb River Road, it is an easy drive from Windjana Gorge. We decided to stay there 2 nights so that we could rest, enjoy and explore this place a bit more. It turned out to be one of our favourite camp grounds on the Gibb (it could have been so because we had the time to enjoy it!). It is similar to Windjana Gorge in terms of the facilities (flushing toilets, solar powered showers and tap water from the creek). Yet Silent Grove campground has a different feel with more tropical look. This is due to lush Pandanus trees, which are distinctive to the Kimberley region.
Pandanus tree fruit (above left). Crossing on the way to Silent Grove (above right).
Like Windjana Gorge campground, it is managed by DPAW and can booked online. But being very spacious you can still get a spot even if you don’t book. Silent Grove campground has a lot more shade and privacy than Windjana Gorge.
Silent Grove campground
Although not mentioned in any brochures or sign boards, there are some walks around the campground. You can climb up the rocks edging the campground for a bird eye view of the place or you can take a short walk to the creek which supplies the water to the campground. You can also walk around the campground, which is huge.
We were lucky to spot pythons there and also see beautiful Blue Water Lilies in the creek.
Silent Grove is a bird lovers paradise. Below are just only a few birds that we could take decent pictures of (bird photography being still a new hobby for us :)).
Great Bowerbird (above left). Double-barred Finch (above right).
Little Corellas
It is also a place to spot some interesting unique animals, like this Sugar Glider, that was on the Eucalyptus tree next to our camping spot. We were lucky enough to watch it feeding on the nectar of the Eucalyptus tree flowers.
Tunnel Creek (Dimalurru) National Park is 36km south from Windajana Gorge and is a great highlight of the Gibb River Road. It takes about an hour to get there from Windjana Gorge. The time depends on your driving, vehicle and whether you are towing. You can also reach Tunnel Creek from Fitzroy Crossing. A creek flows through a tunnel beneath the limestone of the Napier Range, which is part of an extensive fossilized barrier reef formed 360 million years ago. The Tunnel has a geological significance. It also tells a legend of Jandamarra – Aboriginal freedom fighter who used the place as a hideout in late 19 century.
The Tunnel is 750 meters long, up to 20 meters high and 20 meters wide. It holds permanent pools of fresh water which inhibit fresh water crocodiles and many species of fishes. You can take an easy 400meter return Tunnel View Trail to the entrance. This is an excellent opportunity to observe the patterns, texture and colours of the limestone of the rock face. Most people feel adventurous enough to attempt Subterranean 2km return Trail (at least part of it). Here you would need to be prepared by wearing rock shoes and bathers. The trail requires you to scramble over the rocks and waddle through the water pools to get to the other side of the Tunnel. Not surprisingly, the water is chilly and sometimes deep (nearly up to the hips).
You would need at least a couple of hours to explore Tunnel Creek (excluding driving).
Our first stop on the Gibb River Road was Windjana Gorge (Bandilngan). Located 155km from Derby and 21km off the Gibb River Road on Fairfield Leopold Road, it was an easy drive from Derby (with 21km being the only unsealed section of the drive for us that day). Windjana Gorge is a great introduction to the whole Gibb River Road experience and in our opinion is a must.
Campground
Windjana campground is very spacious. Bookings can be made online via Parks stay WA. But you can still rely on getting a spot if you arrive late and during the peak season. Just be prepared to move if you are asked by the ranger. We watched a number of campers had to move because they put their tents too close to the bush. For $17 a night per person (in 2022) you get access to clean flushing toilets, solar powered showers and tap water from the nearby creek. The showers might be hot or not – depending on how busy the campground is.
Windjana Gorge campground
Exploring the gorge
The national park entry fee (separate) allows you to explore the gorge, which is in walking distance. There are a couple of hiking trails there.
The Savannah walk is an easy 1km return loop walk that gives you a closer look at the ridges and boab trees growing there.
Walking this trail at the sunset gives you a different perspective, as the setting sun colours the rocks in orange.
The Savannah trail at sunset
The 5km return Gorge trail allows you to experience the profile of the Devonian Reef.
The trail follows the Lennard River, offering picturesque views.
Look for a fossil of Trilobite – an extinct marine arthropod, thought to be more than 250 million years old – and also and giant spiders at the beginning of the trail.
Fresh water crocodiles
Windajana Gorge is one of the best places on the Gibb River Road to see fresh water crocodiles.
There are two types of crocodiles found in Australia (and both are in Kimberley) – saltwater or estuarine crocodiles and freshwater or Johnston’s river crocodiles. Saltwater crocodiles are big (up to 7 meters long) and are dangerous to humans and we’ve only seen from the far distance. Contrary to their name, they live in fresh waters too, up to 200km away from the coast and can attack in less than a second. Fresh waters crocodiles are much smaller (not more than 3 meters long), have smaller teeth and narrow snout. They live in creeks, rivers, billabongs and are often seen sunbathing on the shore. While they are considered non-aggressive, they can bite if disturbed, so they are still better admired from the distance.
Windjana Gorge is home to many more animals, as well as birds.
A lot of people only stay for one night at Windjana Gorge and then move on. We stayed 2 nights and found that it was the right decision. When you take your time while travelling, you can appreciate the beauty of the place and notice little things you would otherwise miss. Where are we travelling next? Tunnel Creek!
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