Mount Magnet is the longest goldmining centre in Western Australia. It is located 573km north-east of Perth and has current population of around 500 people.
After visiting London Bridge in Sandstone, our camping team had to make a decision of where to go next. Stopping the car for a few minutes at the junction we tossed pros and cons of heading straight across on the dirt road to our next camping spot or spending a bit more time exploring the area (potentially arriving in the dark to our next destination). We reached an agreement and decided to drive to Mt Magnet, where we could also pump diesel and stock up on fresh produce, which was so low at that moment, that we had to ration the fruits, dividing one apple and one pear between 7 people for breakfast.
Mount Magnet was named after a local magnetic rock. The rock, in turn, got its name from Explorer Robert Austin in 1854. He predicted this to be the one of the finest goldfields in the world. His predictions came true nearly 40 years later.
With sealed roads to all four points of the compass, Mount Magnet is the Magnetic Centre of Australia’s Golden Outback. It also has a strong and rich Aboriginal presence revealed both in the ancient rocks, as well as in the modern paintings. After purchasing the necessities, we headed straight to Mount Magnet Visitor Centre, managed by lovely South African couple. Kids were fascinated by the amazing “Treasures of the Earth” rock collection. While we had a quick look at the beautiful aboriginal paintings, got some useful information there and stocked up on brochures for our next adventures.
At Mt Magnet Visitor Centre
The Granites
I was planning to visit Wirnda Barna Arts Centre to look at more Aboriginal paintings. Unfortunately, it closed for the day, so we continued on to see ancient rock formations. The first (and the only one we had time to visit) was the Granites. It is a spectacular 15 metre escarpment sculptured by erosion and special sites. This place holds great significance to the local Badimaya people. The Granites is 9 km north of Mount Magnet town.
The Granites near Mt Magnet
At around 4pm, we set off along Great Northern Hwy, travelling south for our last overnight stop for this trip. Read our next post to find out where we stayed!
Sandstone is a small historic town in the Goldfields region of Western Australia. It is located 660km north east of Perth. The town derives its name from the dramatic contrast of natural rock formations, with the rust stained sandstone landscape.
The two such famous places, where the rocks display their beauty are the Old Brewery and London Bridge.
The Old Brewery
The Brewery opened in 1907 supplying many thirsty miners of Sandstone with beer. It was built on top of the breakaway 10-15 meters in height. As such, people could see it up to 20km away. What an attractive sight! The beer was stored in barrels inside the cellar, which was a massive tunnel carved deep into the rock with the hole bored through the ceiling of the rock. This allowed beer remain remarkably cool even in hottest weather.
The Old Brewery near Sandstone
London Bridge of Sandstone
The main attraction of Sandstone, for me, was beautiful rock formation with a romantic name London Bridge. It is part of a larger rock formation about 800 meters long and 3 to 10 meters high. Lodone Bridge is about 350 million years old, while the underlying rocks of Sandstone area are approximately 2 billion years old. Compare that with the planet Earth, which is 4.5 billion years old! The «bridge» is the result of erosion in hard and soft rock, which makes it thinner as years go by.
Back in late 1800 the bridge was wide enough for a horse and buggy to cross. Nowadays, it is quite thin. Although there is a great temptation to climb the bridge, the nearby sign asks you not to. This is to preserve this natural beauty for the next generations for as long as possible. It is also in the interests of tourists’ own safety. So, if you do visit this place, please respect the rule and do not walk over the bridge.
We found Lake Mason on Wikicamps and decided to camp there for the night. Originally cattle, then later sheep station, it is situated 50km north-east of Sandstone. In 2000 it was bought by Department of Environment and Conservation (DEC) and turned into a conservation park, which covers nearly 150,000 hectares of land. There is a free camping area near the Homestead and this is where we stopped for the night.
Our 1-night stay at Lake Mason
“Kids, off you go to collect wood for the camp fire.” This is what our kids heard every night when we arrived at a new camping spot. Tonight, they were even responsible for starting and maintaining the fire.
At Lake Mason
Between 3 of them they had Campfire Leader, Main Wood Collector and 2nd Wood Collector 😊. While the kids were busy with their campfire duties and our Captain Andrei was unhitching and opening the caravan, I set off to explore this area.
We drove on Sandstone-Wiluna road from Wiluna to reach this place. It took us 3 hours or even more due to a number of pee and photo stops.
Some weird nature design on the side of Sandstone-Wiluna Road
Kids did not complain being on the road for that long. Some used the opportunity to stay in the car and read books, while the youngest, played with the wheels of the caravan, pretending he was a mechanic!
Kids easily find their own entertainment out in the bush!
Waiting for the drone to fly there and back, I was taking pictures while my little son played with the red dirt. There are so many things you can pretend the red dirt could be. Let your imagination run free!
On Sandstone-Wiluna Road
The road, although being unsealed, was in a very good condition (suitable for 2-wheel drive).
Despite of that, we saw quite a number of abandoned cars on the road.
I must mention that during our travel (it was in July in the afternoon), we did not see a single car travelling in either direction during our nearly 3-hour journey.
on Sandstone-Wiluna Road
Lake Mason camping facilities
There are remnants of the homestead, which is run down, but is still looking very decent with all necessities for campers. There were a couple of picnic tables in the undercover area of the homestead, tap water in the adjacent kitchen, where we washed our dishes, cement fire pits with plates for cooking meals over fire. Flushing toilets (even with a roll of toilet paper!) were a bit further away.
We were pleasantly surprised to find 2 showers, where the water could be heated by burning fire wood.
One of the two showers at Lake Mason camp
We were the only campers there and made full use of the facilities – starting the fire and heating up showers, bringing lots of wood (even enough for the next users), using picnic tables, covering them with picnic table clothes, which made our dinner more home like.
Kids help with meal preparations
Going for a morning walk is one of my favourite pastimes. It is an opportunity to enjoy solicitude and take some pictures.
In the early hours at Lake Mason camp
It is normal for kids to go without showers (or even washing their faces) for days when camping wild. Even though Ilusha did take shower the night before (the first and the only one during the whole 7-night trip), he must have forgotten to wash his face… or it quickly became dirty again. Well, “wild and free” was not only our motto for that trip, it was how our hearts and bodies looked and felt!
Wild and free!
Disclaimer:
We camped at Lake Mason in 2020 and cannot guarantee that things have not changed since then. Please do your own research before deciding to camp there. We have simply shared our experience.
You can get a taste of Canning Stock Route by taking a drive from Wiluna. This small town lies 966km north east of Perth. It lies on the edge of the Little Sandy Desert, on the Goldfields Highway. Wiluna is the gateway to the Canning Stock Route which runs north to Halls Creek. It is also the starting point of the Gunbarrel Highway that runs east to Alice Springs.
The Last of the Nomads
The town of Wiluna greets you with “the Last of the Nomads” statue. Having heard the songs about them sung by Greg from Morapoi Station , I was keen to learn more.
The statue of Last Nomads at the entrance of Wiluna town
Warri and Yatungka from Martu tribe are believed to have been Australia’s last desert nomads. They met in 1930s and fell in love. Unfortunately, traditional tribal law forbade them from marrying because they were the wrong match according to “skin group” law. As a result, they decided to run away.
They lived in isolation, hunting traditionally and eating what nature provided them with. Warri and Yatungka remained in exile for many years, finding joy in their two sons. But never stopped missing their land and people. Eventually, Martu elders forgave them and Warri and Yatungka returned to Wiluna. There they spent their last days, passing away within three weeks of each other in 1979. This marked the end of a tribal lifestyle lasting for more than 40000 years. The story of Warri and Yatungka still lives though through many aboriginal songs, poems and a bronze statue in Wiluna.
Beginning of Caning Stock Route
After filling up fuel at Wiluna, we decided it was time to settle for the night. I planned to stay at a farm station 12km off Wiluna and travel on Canning Stock Route the day after. However, what can be done today, must be done today – must have been God’s will for us that day😊. So, off we went on Canning Stock Route. It is one of the most challenging and isolating roads, that connects Wiluna to Halls Creek. Canning Stock Route was originally proposed by Kimberley pastoralists after east Kimberley cattle got infected with ticks. This incident resulted in a ban of cattle from shipping to southern markets. Canning Stock Route got its name from Alfred Canning, who was commissioned to survey and build a stock route in 1906. Canning Stock Route is around 1850km and is the longest historic stock route in the world.
To be honest, I was worried traveling there at dusk but the road was good and we only travelled 20km before stopping for the night.
Camping at North Pool
Our stop for the night was North Pool. It is between Well 1 and Well 2, 10km off Canning Stock Route. The place is quite a pretty rock hole, surrounded with river gums, offering nice shade. With only one other camper trailer tucked at the corner of the camp spot, this place was all to ourselves.
Collecting wood for the fire and preparing meal was our priority before it got too dark. It was a cold and starry night and we kept ourselves warm around the fire. We exchanged stories and tested kids’ knowledge of constellations.
Do you think this piece of wood look more like a snake or a dinosaur? It definitely looks to me like it is from another world :).
Getting up just after the sun got up, I set off for a walk around the area. The surface at times looked like what I imagined the surface of the planet Mars would look like. It was red with big rocks scattered around and occasional weird looking plants.
After breakfast kids find themselves an entertainment. Someone who has stayed there before us, has tied a rope to the tree. Our kids fixed a plastic crate to it and made it fly out into the water, like a flying fox. Nature provides everything you need to learn and play.
Kids entertaining themselves at North Pool on Canning Stock Route
Tjukurba Aboriginal Art Gallery
Getting a taste of Canning Stock Route was not the only agenda I had in Wiluna. There is a wonderful Tjukurba Aboriginal Art Gallery that I was eager to visit.
At Tjukurba Aboriginal Art Gallery in Wiluna
Australian Aboriginal people do not have written language. They use art and drawings to convey their cultural stories and pass them on to the next generations. Indigenous art is centered on storytelling. Their stories convey knowledge of the land, events and beliefs of Aboriginal people. I always find Aboriginal art fascinating. Maybe because Aboriginal artists use symbols, such as dots, curved and straight lines, which makes their paintings look very mysterious. It is through their oral stories and drawings that their children learn lessons of behaviour, survival and use of land.
Captain Cook and his journeyWiluna Rock Holes
“Dreaming“
“Tjukurba” means “Dreaming” in the Aboriginal language. Dreaming or Dreamtime is Australian Aboriginal religio-cultural view of the world. It is based on inter-relation and inter-connectedness of all people and things. Aboriginal people believe that ancestral spirits descended on the land and created life and all geographical formations and sites. The Dreaming stories explain the origin of the universe. It illustrates the deep connection Aboriginal people have with the land and relationships with animals and plants. In Indigenous culture, the health of the country and animals depends on the health of people who protect that landscape. Dreaming stories are also moral guides to behaviour and actions and form the basis for the children’s upbringing.
Emu Corroboree Dance
The pictures at the Tjukurba Gallery mostly depict beautiful landscapes along the Canning Stock Route and the Gunbarrel Highway. Some pictures portray bush food and flowers, including bush bananas (Gunkula), bush tomatoes (Gungili), kangaroo and quandongs. Nearly half of the pictures at the Gallery are named Bush Tucker.
Bush Tucker
To conclude, I must admit that we really satisfied our thirst for knowledge and senses at Wiluna Canning-Gunbarrel Discovery Centre. To add to this, you can get free coffee at that friendly place. Now it was time to move on.
How to start your wild and free adventure is an inspirational account of my camping trip, where I learnt to trust others, trust Life.
Learn from others
Do you want to hear an inspirational story of adventure and learning to trust? Here is my story. I figured out that the fastest way to learn is to learn from someone who has walked the path before you. For me that was the journey with the seafarers Klochkov family. Marina, Andrei and their daughters Anastasia and Lada have been living on a yacht and sailing around the world for the last 7 years. They’ve been to the most isolated and stormy places in the world, including Antarctica, Cape Horn, the Drake Strait and the fjords of Patagonia. After completing their journey, Klochkov family will be the first Russian family to circumnavigate the world around the Capes and Antarctica as a family with kids. And now the destiny has brought them to Fremantle in Western Australia, where we first met them and quickly became friends.
I was fascinated with this family and wanted to know how they managed to sail around the world without any help for many months. Survival skills are transferable and depend to a great degree on your mental attitude. People who can survive in deep ocean, far away from civilisation, relying on themselves only, are capable of doing that on the land. This is what I wanted to learn from them. I learnt the importance of being self-sufficient, flexibility of foregoing such luxuries as taking showers daily, and a delicate dance of proper planning and surrendering to the unfolding of the events and circumstances. Shifting the focus of attention from myself and my own needs and desires to other people, to the environment and simply to the present moment, made a big difference.
Travelling and living with people who not only inspire you but also push you to your limits and beyond accelerates your own progress on the path to turning your dream to reality. And if you can share that dream with someone, it becomes a lot more meaningful. So I’ve organized this journey to the Golden Outback on our 7-seater Pajero pulling 5.5m caravan (where all 7 of us slept every night for a week). I carefully planned the route and destinations on our journey but as is the case with free spirited people, half way through the journey Captain Andrei changed my plans and instead of stopping at the farm stations overnight as I planned, he took us to wild free campsites.
Honestly, I was a bit nervous and fearful. I learnt that I had to trust. Trust was the first thing that I had to learn. Andrei told me about it directly: “Let go and trust life”. I heard that from him a number of times. First, when it came to interactions with my sons. “As a parent, you overprotect your children. You need to let go of that control and adopt a more relaxed way of accepting things.” I saw, with the help of Andrei, who was willing to constantly point that to me, that I had constructed boundaries around myself long time ago and I did not trust life itself. That distrust manifested in everything – the way I parented children, the way I was holding myself in the world, the way I was living my life.
With Andrei and Marina Klochkov. Photo courtesy of Marina Klochkova
Learning to trust life was the first thing I had to learn. And I learnt to trust Life by trusting Andrei take us to unknown, unpredictable places. Pulling out in the dark in the remote isolated place, off the road for the night was not a problem for him. I surrendered my desire to control and let go. May what comes, be. I don’t have to be in charge.
The “gold” of knowledge and experience
My older son Ariel and Lada Klochkova. Photo by Marina Klochkova
Quite often being around Klochkov family I feel that I have a long journey in front of me. It probably means many journeys are ahead of us. Some of them we will undertake ourselves. Other journeys – perhaps, with Klochkov family or with new companions. Who knows? Observing our friends – their passions, courage, strength, ability to go with the flow and change plans, as well as their knowledge about life, history, culture and people – has made us stronger and more resilient.
Every night we were spending around the fire, looking up in the sky. We were learning about constellations, galaxies, night sky, sun and stars navigation. Now my kids know where the Southern Cross, Corvus and Scorpius are. They can point to Venus, Jupiter, Saturn and to the stars Antares and Aldebaran. They know how to start a campfire safely.
Take a plunge into unknown
But more than anything, I learnt to trust the unknown. I came to see that the universe is abundant and always provides us with what we really need. This could be challenges, wonderful uplifting experiences, hard lessons we need to learn or sufferings from which we emerge like new butterflies emerge from their cocoons in spring. I learnt that your intentions create your reality. If you intend to find gold, you will find gold. In my case, it was the gold of knowledge and experience. It is the attitude of openness and acceptance that carry you on your journey. Of course, planning, researching and proper preparation is important. More than anything else – taking a plunge into the cold waters of the oceans, which is your first step, is crucial.
May you dream big, may you trust life enough to take the first step. May you have the courage to take plunge and turn your dreams into reality. Life is given to us, so that we can grow and evolve into better, more open, brighter and lighter human beings.
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